I've had the clutch, flywheel and master and slave cylinders replaced on my 2004 Octavia 2.0 140PS TDi (BKD), and I'm getting a very odd phenomenon. There's too much play in the pedal, about half its course without normal resistance, and so when its fully down, the clutch is not correctly disengaged. Result is of course it tends to lock into first and reverse when manoeuvring gently or in slow traffic - other gears while moving are easier - with a sudden clunk, and to get it back into neutral requires a sort of double-declutch. Sure you know what I mean.

We've purged it and replaced the master cylinder - originally not replaced at the same time as the clutch itself - and it makes no difference at all. Getting to a point where I can't think what more to try. The final step is replacing the hydraulic line from the master to the slave, but I get the idea I'm grasping at straws.

Does anybody have an idea what it might be? Thanks in advance!

Bleeding the clutch system

Special tools and workshop equipment required

t Brake filling and bleeding device e.g. -VAS 5234- or -ROMESS S15-

NoteA pre-filling of the system is not necessary!

Brake fluid specification → Chassis → Rep. Gr.47.

– Remove air filter → Engine → Rep. Gr.23 or → Engine → Rep. Gr.24.

– Connect the brake filling and bleeding device.

To bleed use ventilation hose -A-.

– Then connect ventilation hose with the drip bottle of the brake bleeding device.

– Fit the bleeder hose -A- onto the bleeder -arrow-.

– Activate system with a pressure of 0.2 MPa (2 bar).

– Open bleeder valve.

– Allow approx. 100 cm3 of brake fluid to flow out.

– Close bleeder valve.

– Activate pedal forcefully from stop to stop between 10 and 15 times.

– Open bleeder valve.

– Allow approx. 50 cm3 more brake fluid to flow out.

– Close bleeder valve.

– After completing the bleeding procedure activate the clutch pedal repeatedly.

– Install air filter → Engine → Rep. Gr.23 or → Engine → Rep. Gr.24.

Hi

I have copied yuo the correct clutch bleeding procedure, note the system needs to be pressurised to 2 bar/28psi to bleed correctly. I have used a Gunson pressure bleeder connected to a tyre vavle with good results. Hope tis helps

Could be the answer - I can't think what else it could be other than air in the system somewhere. As the garage I used isn't a Skoda dealership any longer, they may not have had the right kit, or may not have done it correctly... Thanks!

Just got the garage that did the job to agree to take the car to their pet dealership to get it checked over. At least they're playing the game and not trying to fob me off!

Mine is doing something similar, when I first engage revers, when I pull out of my drive in a morning its hard to get it back out so I can select 1st, after that its OK all day just a bit notchy when changing gear

Getting another clutch fitted today to see if it clears the problem as I have done 130,000 on this single flywheel clutch system one now

My old Octy 1 was up to 340,000 with the original clutch. Wondering why I sold the thing rather than rebuild it!

On striping down everything to fit a new clutch, mechanic found that the clutch pivot lever was bent and said that it could have been the main reason the gear change was notchy, also clutch plate springs well warn and release bearing had nearly worn through the plate.

Got the car back today a day late due to the wrong clutch being sent down due to dealer saying it was a Saks fitted, when it was a LUK one

anyway everything is back to normal now and peddle is extremely light to use

clutch kit £189

release bearing £29.51

clutch pivot lever £7.86

ball pin £3.51

Labour £100

vat 66 .11

total £396.68

Not to bad considering my car tied up his lift for over a day

Good to hear it's fixed! I'll mention this if they stand around looking clueless as I expect they will... If bleeding doesn't help, I suspect it'll have to be dismantled to check it over part by part. As I said, it's all new...