Hi,

My 54 reg Skoda Fabia 1.4 16v MPI (80k miles) is giving me quite hard time. First I had problem with the oil pressure light indicator that would start blinking almost after a month of getting the engine oil topped up. This happened a couple of times. I also discovered that the coolant level was also going down by around 1cm every time I would open the bonnet for engine oil top up. Meanwhile it was due for full service. So I took it to the garage, got service done including cam belt change. I told the mechanic about the problems and he fixed them for me. According to him, the problem with coolant was a hole in the radiator and with the oil pressure light was some xyz wrong in abc. (total service bill £600)

But both problems persisted, so I got the conclusion that it's burning oil and topped it up once again. And now suddenly the coolant problem has become serious. The coolant almost disappears now every 10 miles. This has happened twice now in two days. (two months now since service)

Reading some other threads on this forum have made it obvious now that there was definitely not any leak in the radiator, neither any xyz wrong in abc, but this is a very common problem with cars of the same model. (that piston rings and head gasket problem I guess?)

An easy way to solve this problem is to sell it off. But that option had already been chosen be the lady who sold me this car 4 months ago. So I guess I am not very willing to do that to someone else (unless its that mechanic or the lady herself - who would never buy it).

So any of you kind briskodians please advise me the cheapest solution to fix it (if needed, any DIY or visit to scrap yard welcome) so that I can use it for another 6-7 months before I can sell it in an acceptable working conditions to someone else. MOT is due next March.

Thanks for spending your time reading this. (thanks x 2 if you are also going to reply)

R

Edited 18 September, 201114 yr by ryatt

Can you tell where all the water is going?

Don't worry about the oil so much, it won't be related to the water loss.

I'm not sure you should be using the low oil pressure light as an indication that a top-up is needed though, what's wrong with the dipstick!

Edited 18 September, 201114 yr by sepulchrave

Sorry mate, no idea where the water is going. Is there a way I can find that? I mean how to keep a check on that?

And yes of course, the dip stick always agreed with the oil pressure sensor warning light.

Also I forgot to mention one thing, the engine is making some extra noise now, not very loud, but not as smooth as it was a week ago.

Edited 18 September, 201114 yr by ryatt

Firstly, MPI's are 8v. If you had a 16v, it would just say 16v on the back and not MPI

Secondly, sounds exactly like a head/head gasket/piston liner problem not matter which engine you're running.

To repair will take a fair bit of work and if you've got anyone experienced to call on then you're best getting them in to help.

Secondly, a haynes manual is invaluable. Even if some of the stuff it tells you are outright lies, it's always good for reference.

An uprated TEMAC head gasket kit costs something like 30 quid. You can check if yours has it by looking at the right front corner of the engine where the head meets the block - should say TEMAC on it. If not, that would be required.

Next up you want to really double check there's been no warping of the head, but that may just be a case of scrap yard or ask around on here to see if anyone has a good head you could get hold of on the cheap (i'm sure someone has one, i've got a spare but it's being worked on to upgrade my existing head - and judging by the fact you have major issues mine would probably not be with you in time) - Get a very flat surface... Darken the room, put the head flat on it, and shine a light behind and to the side of it. You'll soon see... (obviously clean it up first!) Then if that's ok, get a straight metal ruler and ensure the metal between the cylinders are at the same level as the rest of the head. If it passes both these checks chances are you have a head that can be re-used. If it doesn't, chances are it needs skimming or you need it replaced. Obviously the standard checking for cracks etc in the head also applies. Also when the head is off, check the piston linings. Don't disturb them, a visual should be able to tell you all you need to know. Make sure they all look the same and that the tops of them all line up.

Contrary to popular belief - The head bolts provided they look good and aren't threaded/worn on an MPI can be re-used. They are not stretch bolts.

Finally - if after all this it looks good, torque it down to 50ft/lb from the inside outwards when you're putting it back on, and whilst you're at it check/replace the thermostat housing, thermostat and temp sensor. When these fail (which on most of the MPI's i've seen they do), the wrong temp is being sent back and in some cases causes overheating which can in turn cause exactly the problems you're seeing.

Now of course, this is assuming you've got an MPI - if not, unfortunately i'd not be much help lol!

Seems to me you have a head gasket leak of some sort, perhaps between an oil way and an water-way, or/and a leak from either into a combustion chamber,

have a close look at dipstick for whitish discolouration or water drop-lets.

Possible combination of water lost one way with the oil lost another??

Have a garage do a wet and dry compression check.

Sorry mate, no idea where the water is going. Is there a way I can find that? I mean how to keep a check on that?

And yes of course, the dip stick always agreed with the oil pressure sensor warning light.

Also I forgot to mention one thing, the engine is making some extra noise now, not very loud, but not as smooth as it was a week ago.

That's not what I meant, when the oil pressure light comes on during normal running it means it's TOO LATE to top up with oil!

If your engine sounds like it has a faint rumbling and feels harsher than before then your main bearings have been damaged by oil starvation.

I think your engine might be a goner, it will be cheaper and easier to simply replace it with a guaranteed secondhand unit.

Edit: Don't waste any more time and money on this and don't drive it any more.

Edited 18 September, 201114 yr by sepulchrave