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steering angle sensor - does cpu need configued?

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Hi folks, I know from searching over the whole entire known internet for why my lights where flickering when my battery and alternator where fine that there is quite a few threads on this issue.

I'm completely broke at the minute and I opted to buy a cheap used sensor. Coming in 3/4 days (fingers crossed). Is this job doable under the car with axle stands?

Also, I was wonder does the CPU need to be configured in any way in order for this to work? The old sensor is not throwing me up any fault code even thought the PAS Warning light has come on once or twice.

Keeping costs low is the main aim with this one so if I can do it myself I will. I realise ill be buying another one in 3 months time but at least then Xmas will have passed!!!

Thanks a million in advance folks, much appreciated!!!

give us a few more details,

you say your lights flicker? when ? is there a common trigger (turning the streering? )

how old is the car? yopu say battery is ok? how do you know? has it been recently changed?

have you checked the brown and blue wire in the gearbox going to the alernator? break there is a common fault

Battery should be load tested, as more often than not, it's the battery that gives this fault.

  • Author

Thanks for the reply guys.

The cars a 2001 with 56K.

Had a spark friend of mine check the battery with his bits of kit and he says all is good with the battery.

The brown and blue wire thing is new so ill give that a check tomorrow!!

The interior lights and headlights constantly dim and brighten when on, this coincides with VERY heavy steering at low speeds intermittently along with lubriciously light steering at different speeds. I have seen the PAS light a few time but after the ignition is off for a few mins then on, its gone (have to note that when it is on there is no noticeable change in steering ability!?!)

*in addition to my OP, should a dodgey sensor log a fault on ECU if the PAS light has come on?

Edited by colly

The old sensor is not throwing me up any fault code even thought the PAS Warning light has come on once or twice.

So if its not the sensor, I assume there is a fault code telling you where the fault lies? If there's no fault along the lines of "steering angle sensor: implausible correlation" then there's no point changing the angle sensor as its not broken. :)

  • Author

So if its not the sensor, I assume there is a fault code telling you where the fault lies? If there's no fault along the lines of "steering angle sensor: implausible correlation" then there's no point changing the angle sensor as its not broken. :)

I see your point, however when I say fault code.... :S . I had a VERY cheap OBD device to check this out, no VAGCOM diag done on it. I did get codes for 1)02 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 2) and 2)Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 2) - however is hope this is the cause for a separate rough running issue!!

I guess going to the garage to get it properly scanned is the next port of call?

I'm fairly new to all this guys so sorry if im pi55ing you off with what may seem like trivial things. I hope to learn quick!!

Just to add, when the lights are flickering there is a noise as if a motor is moving around. this is what made me think it was power steering pump. the noise is similar to windscreen washers, but quite faint.

Battery is fooked imo as i went through all this crap with skoda last year.And even 4 trips to them they could not find the fault. Had to do it myself with Vag com. Skoda dealers are the worst i have ever dealt with.

sent from being sat in my racist chair using Tapatalk

  • Author

Battery is fooked imo as i went through all this crap with skoda last year.

sent from being sat in my racist chair using Tapatalk

u rekon? what could be causing the motor noises?

The noise could be lack of power like i had.

Turned out battery was fine just not powerful enough for the VRS

sent from being sat in my racist chair using Tapatalk

  • Author

The noise could be lack of power like i had.

Turned out battery was fine just not powerful enough for the VRS

sent from being sat in my racist chair using Tapatalk

ahh right... ill get the mate back down asap to do a load test on the battery and alternator! load test on the battery should have a minimum of what? 9v?

and should be 12v plus on the alt while running?

That motor noise is bugging me the most now... if the car wasn't getting enough power surly the mechanism making the noise would simply not work at all... rather than randomly starting and stopping when the car is still and idling.

14.3 volts when charging from the alternator, 12.5 volts MINIMUM after sitting over night, or 11.8 volts under a 60 AMP load test.

Easy test in the morning, turn on ignition, let all test lights go out, start engine, if PAS and or ABS lights come back on for a second or two, the battery is goosed.

Just because the fault code hasn't been thrown up yet doesn't mean that it can't be the PAS sensor. Had done my mates which had thrown up the PAS fault code but he noticed several times that the steering was getting heavy (suddenly) then it would be OK!.......My car started (once every 5th trip) feeling a bit "light" on the steering....then once in a car park it totaly went on me (no PAS).......NO LIGHTS on dash...and NO FAULT CODES!!! (I have a machine that can access every unit and recode)......So went home and did all the usual checks...all fuses, wires, wires by gearbox problem area, load test battery (battery is top end Bosch in large capacity and spends some time on a battery conditioner)etc, etc.......So it must be the PAS sensor....had a word with the Mech at the Skoda garage when I was in there, and as it only temperarly went on me once it might not have been enough to trip a full code! ...Fitted new sensor...all ok (done 1,000miles since) B)

To swap the sensor....yours is a bit easier than my car as the subframe is differnt on yours and allow a bit more access!......only takes a few miutes to undo the two hex (allen key) bolts that hold the sensor in place.......but about 1hr to unclip the wiring from it acrosss the subframe, down the chassis rail on the passenger side to the front of the car to the PAS pump which is behind the the passenger side lower front foglight area......remove the screw on the passenger side wheel arch liner by the wires to help access. and remove the lower front grill (pull out)..there is a guide on VRS fabia i think its called?? B)

Edited by fabdavrav

ahh right... ill get the mate back down asap to do a load test on the battery and alternator! load test on the battery should have a minimum of what? 9v?

and should be 12v plus on the alt while running?

That motor noise is bugging me the most now... if the car wasn't getting enough power surly the mechanism making the noise would simply not work at all... rather than randomly starting and stopping when the car is still and idling.

Have you checked the power steering fluid reservoir level? My GF's Fabia 1 used to make a lot a PAS noise before I topped it up to the correct level. Helpfully the reservoir is under the battery so you can't see it, or check the fluid level, without taking the battery out.

  • Author

Was on a 12 hr shift today so havtn got near it!!

The girlfriend had the car all day reports no bother with the steering at all... even in the event of Belfast's heaviest year of the year! ( i was thinking the problem might have taken hold recently due to moist weather conditions!?)

I done the quick battery test above and once the PAS and ABS go off after ignition they dont return. Seemingly the battery is ok? However ill not be a peace with this until a proper load test is carried out.

I had a look around the engine bay the last time the light came on to check the power steering fluid and couldnt find the bottle... now i dont feel so stupid!! Who knew the hide and seek world champions helped desgin the Furby!!

Many thanks again to you all, the suggestions are helping me out so much!!

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