Hi guys,

Since it's started getting colder (i.e. since Tuesday!), I've noticed that when I start my car, the rev-counter needle initially flicks up to roughly half-way between 1000 and 1250 revs, before immediately dropping back down to the correct idle revs (almost as though it were doing a mini "needle-sweep", or I had accidentally clipped the accelerator). The starting action also feels a little more "aggressive" (i.e. slightly more vibration when the engine fires).

I also noticed that when I opened the door with the engine running yesterday, the interior courtesy light was a little "flickery" (there wasn't any discernible pattern, and it was only a slight dimming, rather than a total loss of light), yet when I switched the engine off, it stopped flickering.

Does this sound like a low (or tired) battery? I mainly do short journeys (~6 miles or so), so I imagine that it's not really getting an opportunity to charge fully (there's a fault code of 01598 - Drive Battery Voltage logged as a "sporadic" fault). I did connect a charger to it for a couple of hours on Tuesday, and when I started it yesterday morning, the needle just slowly went up to around 900rpm, instead of jumping over and then settling back (although it went back to jumping over in the afternoon). It's still starting on the first crank, so it doesn't seem obviously flat or about to expire ...

Or is this normal behaviour now that it's getting colder (was 6C yesterday and 0.5C today!)? Unfortunately, I can't remember whether it did the same thing last year or not..!

Sorry if it's a daft question!

Certainly does not sound like 'normal' behaviour.. Even when it's cold!

You could well be right with the battery - can you borrow a 'good' one from another car? This is a simple way to diagnose. Cold weather can have adverse effects on it.

I had a v6 mondeo that did some really odd things with the battery on the way out - even a good charge didn't fix half of the issues. A trip to Halfrauds did though!

Good luck

Check battery earth lead to the inner wing. A DVM should show 0.02 Ohms maximum resistance.

Check battery earth lead to the inner wing. A DVM should show 0.02 Ohms maximum resistance.

Personally -I'd do that on volts across the two points - don't know what sort of current starter takes -but on the old cars ,I used to work on no more than .5v drop at any one point .An if that's .5 on earth and .5 accross the solenoid ,the motor is only getting about 11.6 -12v .

Daughter ha this problem other day -turned out battery was about to keel over .I'd be checking out battery prices an getting it's condition checked .

Thanks for the replies, guys. I believe the battery is the original one (so, 7 years old), so I guess it could be getting a bit on the tired side (I know short trips don't really give it a chance to charge, and add in having the lights and heater on, and it being cold...).

You could well be right with the battery - can you borrow a 'good' one from another car? This is a simple way to diagnose. Cold weather can have adverse effects on it.

I'll have to see if I can "lift" the battery from my parents Mk2 Octavia and give that a go. I'll also try to give mine a proper charge over the weekend - I had it on trickle charge earlier after I got home from work, which is normally an overnight job, but gave up after a couple of hours as the house was getting cold (had to leave something open to run the power lead out of the house!).

Check battery earth lead to the inner wing. A DVM should show 0.02 Ohms maximum resistance.

Thanks - will do.

Daughter ha this problem other day -turned out battery was about to keel over .I'd be checking out battery prices an getting it's condition checked.

I'm pretty sure it's the original battery ... the green "magic eye" thing seems to indicate it's OK, but I guess it could still be getting tired!

Edited 21 October, 201114 yr by martinch

If you have to buy a new battery you could do a lot

worse than giving a company called Tayna a look.

If you have to buy a new battery you could do a lot

worse than giving a company called Tayna a look.

Ta - will have a quick look. Also have a TPS near me ...

Hi all,

I gave the battery a concerted charge over the weekend (all day Saturday, until it was full!) - before charging, it was reading 12.46V, and after it was 12.59V, which I assume is about right for a 12V battery? The maximum resistance on the earth wire was 0.001 Ohms.

When started today, the rev counter needle exceeded 1000rpm by about 1 needle's width when firing, before instantly floating back down to idle (as though its the momentum of the needle..?).

My interior light goes dim sometimes, there's a contact in it that's a bit duff, usually giving it a whack sorts it out.

Now it's colder the car may be initially injecting a bit more diesel on startup which may be why you get a little blip and then settles down to idle..

Could possibly just be reading into things a bit too much?

Kev

My interior light goes dim sometimes, there's a contact in it that's a bit duff, usually giving it a whack sorts it out.

Ah, percussive maintenance! I only noticed flickering the once, probably because it was pitch-black (10pm), and I don't normally have the door open with the engine running. A slightly loose connection and vibration could explain it, though ...

Now it's colder the car may be initially injecting a bit more diesel on startup which may be why you get a little blip and then settles down to idle..

Cool - sounds reasonable. Would also explain it being a bit more "noticeable" when it starts.

Could possibly just be reading into things a bit too much?

Entirely! It was something I noticed one day and thought "that's new", although it's entirely possible it was something I simply hadn't noticed before. I'd assumed it was a low/tired battery, but not really sure how to tell between them (until it's too late!).

did you ever get this sorted?? i think i have the same problem but have never been bothered about it unless its an easy fix