Hi all, was driving back from work in my 2006 vRS when this light came on the instrument panel (not flashing). I have done a search and understand I need to get the fault codes read. I just wanted to know if it would be ok to drive until I can get it checked? It didn't seem to go into a mode of reduced performance or limp mode.

Would rather not get the train but don't want to damage the car!

Cheers.

Which light? :wonder:

This one?

Could be choked up with soot and need a good thrash

in 3rd gear a few times... Do you drive it gently

99% of the time?

Yep that's the one. To be honest I don't rev it too much, happy to sit in 6th at 70mph so maybe you are right. It does get 300 miles of motorway driving a week though...

Should it be ok to drive? :S

I had a company car for a time where that light came on once

in a while, the mechanic used by my then company suggested I

"gave it a good clearout" using the method I mentioned and it worked for me...

That was in a renault laguna estate btw. I was happy to give it a go

but then again, it wasn't my car...

Obviously it would be prudent and wise to get the fault codes scanned

properly first, I'm no mechanic so it may not be that at all?

But if it's driving normally then I can't see it hurting too much tbh

I'm only a builder though so I could be way off.

Maybe there's another member local to you in Kent who

is VAG com'd up and can help for a few beers?

Someone more knowledgeable than me will soon be along

to put me straight if I'm wrong

Safe to drive, but get it scanned ASAP as per the handbook. There is always the potential to cause engine damage if driven for too long with the EML on. Safe bet it's going to be an EGR fault.

I have had this light come on twice , first time it was the secondary coolant pump and I drove it for a week as the part was out of stock . The next time it was the diff pressure sensor and had that changed the next day. You do need to get it scanned to find out the fault code and also to reset the light.

Safe to drive, but get it scanned ASAP as per the handbook. There is always the potential to cause engine damage if driven for too long with the EML on. Safe bet it's going to be an EGR fault.

Right, got it scanned with the help of TKW, so big shout out to him for the assistance. And yes you were right MoggyTech:

19586 - EGR System: Regulation Range Exceeded

P3130 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

Is there anything I can check myself or do or is it another trip to the independent garage? :( Am I still ok to drive it with this code in mind?

The scan did throw up some other strange things so I will post them up in the VCDS section.

Thanks

Right, got it scanned with the help of TKW, so big shout out to him for the assistance. And yes you were right MoggyTech:

19586 - EGR System: Regulation Range Exceeded

P3130 - 35-10 - - - Intermittent

Readiness: 1 1 0 0 0

Is there anything I can check myself or do or is it another trip to the independent garage? :( Am I still ok to drive it with this code in mind?

The scan did throw up some other strange things so I will post them up in the VCDS section.

Thanks

EGR problem won't cause any damage, so safe to drive till you get it fixed. It will most likely need a new EGR valve, but could also be the vacuum control box on the inner wing drivers side. Possibly even a perished vacuum hose from the vacuum control box to the EGR valve.

EGR problem won't cause any damage, so safe to drive till you get it fixed. It will most likely need a new EGR valve, but could also be the vacuum control box on the inner wing drivers side. Possibly even a perished vacuum hose from the vacuum control box to the EGR valve.

Ok thanks for that, could it also be blocked and just require a clean? Car has only done 60k...

Had same fault code on my brothers VRS.

Decided to get a new EGR valve in the end which I found online delivered for £60. Mechanic fitted for £30. The car had done 68k but the previous owner was one careful lady driver so it didn't get much thrashing.

When the old one came out it was covered in cr@p.

Caked in gunge at 60k for sure, not worth cleaning cos if the vacuum diaphragm isn't leaking now, it soon will be. Any signs of oil from the small breather hole below the bit that looks like a flying saucer, means the valve is goosed. Don't fit a pattern Chinese part, they fail after a few months, fit OEM, worth the extra dosh.

Caked in gunge at 60k for sure, not worth cleaning cos if the vacuum diaphragm isn't leaking now, it soon will be. Any signs of oil from the small breather hole below the bit that looks like a flying saucer, means the valve is goosed. Don't fit a pattern Chinese part, they fail after a few months, fit OEM, worth the extra dosh.

Took the big hose next to the EGR off to see if there were any blockages last night. The hose was not blocked and there wasn't much solid gunk inside the valve. It more or less came out like black paint and wasn't too solidified. I take it this is bad news and need a new EGR then? :( There definitely was not enough in there to cause the light to come on in my opinion.

Is it literally the 3 allen key bolts to remove the EGR? If so then I may consider doing it myself but the bolt at the back looks like a pig to get to.

...but could also be the vacuum control box on the inner wing drivers side. Possibly even a perished vacuum hose from the vacuum control box to the EGR valve.

What could actually be wrong with the control box if it is not the EGR? Is it the one with the small hoses coming out that are numbered? All hoses looked fine to me.

Thanks for the help.

Caked in gunge at 60k for sure, not worth cleaning cos if the vacuum diaphragm isn't leaking now, it soon will be. Any signs of oil from the small breather hole below the bit that looks like a flying saucer, means the valve is goosed. Don't fit a pattern Chinese part, they fail after a few months, fit OEM, worth the extra dosh.

Looks like you were right again MoggyTech, I now have some oil leaking out of the flying saucer part and it's all over my engine cover so I need a new valve...

Would it be ok to just disconnect the small hose from the top of the valve and block it like others have done or will it still leak? This EGR sounds like its more hassle than its worth clogging everything up. I have a BLT engine so I cannot get the light mapped out anyway. Or would you just get it replaced?

Not having too much luck with this car, already had the radiator go within 4 days of owning it and now this :(

Thanks

Looks like you were right again MoggyTech, I now have some oil leaking out of the flying saucer part and it's all over my engine cover so I need a new valve...

Would it be ok to just disconnect the small hose from the top of the valve and block it like others have done or will it still leak? This EGR sounds like its more hassle than its worth clogging everything up. I have a BLT engine so I cannot get the light mapped out anyway. Or would you just get it replaced?

Not having too much luck with this car, already had the radiator go within 4 days of owning it and now this :(

Thanks

It's leaking the PCV oil that comes out of the crankcase and into the intake system. So disconnecting vacuum hose will disable EGR but not stop the oil leak. So only proper solution is a new EGR valve. I understand your frustration, but modern cars are no longer over engineered, but built to bare minimum costs. We are moving towards the throw away car after three years, just like all the other modern tat that is sold these days.

Maybe now, people will understand why I love my Morris 1000 Traveler. 42 years old, 111,000 miles and still purring along. Sure bits fail, but parts are cheap as chips. 0-60 on a calender but then why be in a rush

Looks like this has happened to my car today.

I've been driving it gently all over the "festive break" - I went slowly from Gloucester to Milton Keynes (84 miles) just before Xmas then back to Gloucester today equally slowly. "Slowly" means not exceeding the speed limit and accelerating gently - much of the time owing to traffic density to be honest - though I had no need to rush in any case (do you rush to see your relations?). Then after an hour for lunch set off for Shropshire and the light came on after about another 20 miles - MPG meter was reading 67.1mpg at the time.

The car seemed to be driving perfectly normally and I tried some high rev blasts on the rest of the journey but the light was still on at end. Only done 31.4k miles - but much of it in economy mode.

I'll see what it's like tomorrow after a cold start. Haven't got a fault code reader.

Shame your not still here in sunny MK i`d have scanned it for you

Having read a few forum posts am I right in thinking this points to a blocked EGR valve that in theory could be cleaned but in practice, me being not particularly hands on, means replacement? Would the fact I've had poorer than expected MPG for the last two top-ups go along with this too?

I'm going to go food shopping after breakfast to warm the engine up - then go for a high-rev blast. Let's see what happens

Well it was unexpected.

I started it up and the light was on so drove the half-mile to Sainsbury's. However setting off for the return journey the light was off and remained off.

So after unloading the shopping I went for a 26 mile drive from Oswestry to Wrexham not going higher than 3rd gear, thus averaging between 4000 and 4200rpm on the dual carriageway section and about 3500rpm on single carriageways. All seemed fine (remembering it doesn't appear to have gone into limp mode as the handbook suggests at all). I'll drive at higher than usual revs back down to Gloucester later in the week.

Unless the light comes on again, I'm going to assume this was a temporary glitch occasioned by the very gentle driving over Xmas. I'll just need to drive around subsequently on rather higher revs than I have been doing, though I think long term I'll have to sell it and buy something different now this has happened...

Update - I've now driven around in Shropshire several short journeys and the 100 miles back down to Gloucestershire today generally sticking to 4th gear. The light hasn't come on again.

Hi there,

My light came on the other day when I was coming back from Devon. Left the car in the drive a couple of days. When I started it up a shed load of smoke came out the back and the engine stopped. Now it will not start for toffee. Any ideas?