Still waiting for our Yeti, ordered 1st week of July :wonder: , but was wondering if it was possible to feed a 12v supply loom through to the inside without interfering with modern electronic trickery?

Before you ask , it's for a fused supply to two MSA radios that don't like running off existing 12v supply sockets.

No reason at all why you cannot run a (fused) live directly from the battery.

Gizmo is -as usual- right. The car has can bus electronics which means any interference with the loom may give rise to problems. To run a sepaerate (fused of course!) supply line from the battery will not interfere. If you need it to be switched with the ignition you would have to take advice but I suspect you could do so via a relay energised from an ignition live.

I have the same problem - what I tend to do now is use the cigarette lighter socket which is live all the time.

I'm not a fan of cigarette lighter plugs, especially with a Tait 2000 which occasionally does a random lockup, but it's been OK so far (as long as you don't hare off down a stage at high speed!)

I was going to look at taking a feed direct off the underside of the cigarette lighter socket, but injury has prevented me from doing that so far.

Getting a cable through from the engine bay to the cockpit is well nigh impossible as far as I can see!

Still waiting for our Yeti, ordered 1st week of July :wonder: , but was wondering if it was possible to feed a 12v supply loom through to the inside without interfering with modern electronic trickery?

Before you ask , it's for a fused supply to two MSA radios that don't like running off existing 12v supply sockets.

I run mine off a double fused lead clipped directly to the battery. Only a couple of inches shows between the top corner of the bonnet and the front passenger door. Aerial lead goes out of the rerar passenger door top. I tried through the boot hatch, but it seems to put too much bend in the co-ax.

I was told by the local Ham Club that this is the best way to ensure good connections and reduce interference.

I also have a Tait but never had a problem with it locking up.

To find a way through the bulkhead looks almost impossible, so the only other option would be to find a spare fuse in the set in the end of the dash.

I suspect that using an existing circuit, especially with the CanBus system, could potentially introduce "noise" all too easily.

What are your call-signs?

If the Yeti is anything like the Golf (it is based on the Golf chassis) then remove the cover in the passenger side footwell (bottom of the glovebox) behind the pollen filter housing / heater motor you will see a large grommet that the wires passing from the engine bay to the cockpit pass through, use this to run the cable through

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/217350-wales-rally-gb-2011/

I've piggy-backed a live feed from the underside of the cigarette lighter socket in the centre console, and a negative from a stud under the gear lever gaiter. I'm currently using a fly lead at the moment until I mount a more permanent DIN socket or similar. The lighter socket is fused at (I think) 20A so provided the lighter isn't used at the same time, it should have plenty of capacity for "auxiliaries".

And yes, I've spent ages trying to find that grommet inside the car, under & behind the glove box, completely without success! The damn passenger footwell is so well put together & neatly trimmed that it seem impossible to get anywhere near said grommet!

I doubt it is there! Just because the floor pan is loosly based on the Golf doesn't mean the bulkhead is.

True, but there will be some grommets there ......... somewhere, look in the engine bay and see where the wiring loom runs, this will give you an idea where to look

What are your call-signs?

Marches 6, silver Suzuki SJ413 - old bearded git. Parked up near you in the Bluebell at Llangurig having treacle pudding and custard prior to going into Myherin later tonight.

Halfway tomorrow - Recce Myherin and WRC Acedamy shakedown earlier in the week.

Jerry

Jerry, if I was home I'd pop over!! Currently I'm stuck in my signalbox near Ludlow.

Work has got in the way this year, and I have had to take 2 days A/L just to do Crychan on Sunday. Still it will be an interesting job. I normally end up as Sector Marshal, but was asked to be Mid Stage Safety for a change.

Have fun tomorrow; it was manic in Llani this afternoon!

I'm planning on using the 12v power supply with a cigarette lighter plug for my CB radio.

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I've piggy-backed a live feed from the underside of the cigarette lighter socket in the centre console, and a negative from a stud under the gear lever gaiter. I'm currently using a fly lead at the moment until I mount a more permanent DIN socket or similar. The lighter socket is fused at (I think) 20A so provided the lighter isn't used at the same time, it should have plenty of capacity for "auxiliaries".

And yes, I've spent ages trying to find that grommet inside the car, under & behind the glove box, completely without success! The damn passenger footwell is so well put together & neatly trimmed that it seem impossible to get anywhere near said grommet!

How did you get to the underside of the cigarette lighter socket? I want to add another lighter socket in the "jumbo box" so that I can conceal my DAB radio there. The AUX in socket is in the box but no power outlet - strange omission.

I'm planning on using the 12v power supply with a cigarette lighter plug for my CB radio.

Be careful about doing that.

Often the plugs have a high resistance so you might not get full power to the radio, plus it can introduce "noise" into your transmission, especially with the CanBus system. The best result is wiring directly to the battery, or if you want it removeable, use a proper plug and socket.

How did you get to the underside of the cigarette lighter socket? I want to add another lighter socket in the "jumbo box" so that I can conceal my DAB radio there. The AUX in socket is in the box but no power outlet - strange omission.

In the Yeti there isn't enough room to put a standard power socket in the cubbybox. Having one in the back of box would be useful, as that would give you a power outlet for the rear seats, for a fridge or kids game machines, for example.

Be careful about doing that.

Often the plugs have a high resistance so you might not get full power to the radio, plus it can introduce "noise" into your transmission, especially with the CanBus system. The best result is wiring directly to the battery, or if you want it removeable, use a proper plug and socket.

Thanks for that. The supplier fitted the cigarette plug to my cable, they do it all the time. I used www.4x4cb.com, as recommended by Surrey 4x4 Response.

Thanks for that. The supplier fitted the cigarette plug to my cable, they do it all the time. I used www.4x4cb.com, as recommended by Surrey 4x4 Response.

They are a good company, and that is a common way of doing it, BUT it can cause problems. My way is the way recommended by my local radio ham club, and they can be a bit "anal". Best thing is to try it and see.

The MSA radios are very similar to CB, but on a different frequency (obviously) and I think have higher power. Mine is fitted to a board with an old car voltmeter as well, so I can check whether I need to recharge the battery every now and then. Being on-air for 12 hours can drop the volts somewhat.

They are a good company, and that is a common way of doing it, BUT it can cause problems. My way is the way recommended by my local radio ham club, and they can be a bit "anal". Best thing is to try it and see.

The MSA radios are very similar to CB, but on a different frequency (obviously) and I think have higher power. Mine is fitted to a board with an old car voltmeter as well, so I can check whether I need to recharge the battery every now and then. Being on-air for 12 hours can drop the volts somewhat.

I'm not expecting to be on air that long without using the engine

How did you get to the underside of the cigarette lighter socket? I want to add another lighter socket in the "jumbo box" so that I can conceal my DAB radio there. The AUX in socket is in the box but no power outlet - strange omission.

Believe it or not, the side panels of the centre console just pull off!

Best access is by working from the passenger side, (drivers side shown)

you can gently but firmly pull the side panel towards you by inserting your fingers behind the bottom edge of the panel, at carpet level, then pull down to unhook it from behind the console itself. Then remove the gear lever gaiter by pulling it upwards, it's held in place by a peg at each corner & should lift fairly easily once you release one corner & then you can slide it squarely up the gear stick shaft. (See Great Yetis Guide here)

The lighter socket is a push fit, bit it's a sod to remove. Firstly remove the appropriate fuse from the drivers side fuse box, then using a small screwdriver or spike, gently bend inwards the tabs inside the socket that hold it in the console. Note which way the spade connector is angled before removing the socket, as you'll need to put it back in exactly the same orientation.

By pushing from below (small fingers needed) and pulling from above, the socket and bezel will eventually come out, but it's not easy. The socket is a very firm fit in the bezel, and the bezel a very firm fit in the Centre console. Once you've got it out, there are standard spade connectors underneath.

Before replacing, bend the securing tabs back into shape to ensure a good fit.

When replacing the side panel, it just pushes back into place on 4 spring clips once you have tucked it back behind the adjacent trim. Note the large square industrial 'Velcro' pad that you need to push home to prevent rattles (see first photo).

Good luck!

John H

Edited 12 November, 201114 yr by speedsport

Here's my set up today.

Left radio is the C ststem one, and right hand side the A system.

What it looks like now!!

Here's my set up today.

Just back after not much sleep.

Mmm, not the effect I was looking for. When/if I ever get my hands on the SM, I'll be trying to find a location stacked between the seats - but obviously I'm just twiddling my thumbs at the moment. Normally the radios live in the SJ between the seats, so I'm looking for some sort of similar arrangement to keep a low profile to outsiders.

If I find a handy cable route into the interior, I'll post back here - sometime :S

Normally I only have the C system, so that either sits on the passenger seat, as I am normally on my own. I have put it on the cubby box, which works quite well. I can't fit it permanently as SWMBO only complains.

Because I was Mid Stage Safety 1 today I had the A system set as well, plus another operator to help. Luckily nothing happened on our stage.

Good day overall, and amazingly sunny for a Novemeber in Wales!

I like the muddy footprints in the 2nd photo!

Oh, and there certainly is a grommet roughly in the place previously described, hidden down behind the battery, carrying a fair sized section of the wiring loom. But where it comes out inside the car I've not been able to find out despite removing the glove box (as per a Great Yeti guide). I've been reluctant to disconnect the battery, not being too sure what happens to radio codes etc when you reconnect it - it's probably going to be out for some time whilst exploring and I don't know how long Columbus keeps everything before it thinks it's been removed from the vehicle.

There are spare live terminals by the battery that are ideal for adding an extra fused supply but........ !! :S

Edited 13 November, 201114 yr by speedsport

I like the muddy footprints in the 2nd photo!

They aren't footprints, they are Yeti droppings!!

Have you seen the Press Release I have copied in the WRGB thread? Mr Ree won't like it!!

Believe it or not, the side panels of the centre console just pull off!

Best access is by working from the passenger side, (drivers side shown)

you can gently but firmly pull the side panel towards you by inserting your fingers behind the bottom edge of the panel, at carpet level, then pull down to unhook it from behind the console itself. Then remove the gear lever gaiter by pulling it upwards, it's held in place by a peg at each corner & should lift fairly easily once you release one corner & then you can slide it squarely up the gear stick shaft. (See Great Yetis Guide here)

The lighter socket is a push fit, bit it's a sod to remove. Firstly remove the appropriate fuse from the drivers side fuse box, then using a small screwdriver or spike, gently bend inwards the tabs inside the socket that hold it in the console. Note which way the spade connector is angled before removing the socket, as you'll need to put it back in exactly the same orientation.

By pushing from below (small fingers needed) and pulling from above, the socket and bezel will eventually come out, but it's not easy. The socket is a very firm fit in the bezel, and the bezel a very firm fit in the Centre console. Once you've got it out, there are standard spade connectors underneath.

Before replacing, bend the securing tabs back into shape to ensure a good fit.

When replacing the side panel, it just pushes back into place on 4 spring clips once you have tucked it back behind the adjacent trim. Note the large square industrial 'Velcro' pad that you need to push home to prevent rattles (see first photo).

Good luck!

John H

Thanks for such comprehensive instructions. However, is it not possible to simply get to the wire leading to the existing cigarette lighter? Then you could splice into that wire and take a lead off to a "new" cigarette lighter in the jumbo box; that would avoid having to extract the existing lighter and disturb its seating etc. I have found a wired cigarette lighter in Halfords - actually a device that plugs into the existing lighter with a cable leading to another lighter socket - I plan to cut off the cable where it leaves the plug, (so I have a cigarette lighter socket at the end of a cable) and tap that cable into the wire leading to the existing cigarette lighter.

Possible?