Righto,

2007 PD Octy2 VRS at 65000 miles.

Here are the symptoms:

Limp Home at 2000 RPM in 6th under load, on the VAG system it states "Turbo Underboost".

Turbo Lag in 3rd.

General lack of HP.

Leading to 0 compression in a cylinder.

MAKE SURE YOU GET THE FOLLOWING ITEMS CHECKED AND CLEANED:

Turbo

EGR Valve

Intake Manifold

THE COSTS!

£2500

Coked up intake manifold.

Broken flap.

Pin indent on top of valve in pot 4.

Offering the part up for comparison.

Splits between most valves.

Kerching!

Oh, and SKODA say there is no good will as i've only had it serviced with them once and it is not being repaired with them.

:(

Andy

Edited 22 November, 201114 yr by sweenpole2001

Not good

Hello mate,

Do you need help rebuilding the head?

Can also get the cams etc super finished, repair the head etc

Cheers Ricky

Did the symptoms lead up to the swirl flap failing or were they as a consequence?

I think the symptoms were a result of the coking problem in the intake. It got too sooted up and something must have happened to the end flap over pot 4. After the turbo was cleaned out, this must have forced too much though the intake causing the flap to come loose and out into the cylinder :(

Cheers for the offer of help but it's done now and ready for collection

Cant wait to get back in and spin it up.

Andy

I now know that at about 40k miles or 3 years, i'm going to shell out for a complete de-coking and inspection to see if the problems persist.

Always a problem, when not servicing the car with Skoda...but in the end, who can blame them?

Really bad news when this happens, tho it is quite common with those piezo-injectors....

i have hit 56,000 dont tell me i have all this to come!

is it easily avoided? i.e regular oil changed with flush ect or is it more a DMF issue..it just going to happen no matter what?

i have hit 56,000 dont tell me i have all this to come!

is it easily avoided? i.e regular oil changed with flush ect or is it more a DMF issue..it just going to happen no matter what?

Take it to a trusted garage, get them to use an aerosol turbo cleaner on the turbo, remove the EGR valve and you can ether clean that yourself by soaking in carb cleaner over night then going at it with a tooth brush or they might have a parts washer. Check the inlet manifold and either clean or replace. It's about a £350 part though :S

Take it to a trusted garage, get them to use an aerosol turbo cleaner on the turbo, remove the EGR valve and you can ether clean that yourself by soaking in carb cleaner over night then going at it with a tooth brush or they might have a parts washer. Check the inlet manifold and either clean or replace. It's about a £350 part though :S

But i dont have any of the symptoms (yet) or should i be doing this regardless?

Jesus, tough break!! On the flipside, great pics and post. Nice one!

I'd say, even if you don't have the symptoms, i'd just have it looked at. Always good to have a clean engine and you'll recover lost horsepower

JJBS3, thanks mate.

Andy

is it a new manifold, new flaps or just remove and blank off? --does the pivot pass thro' each flap of are they riveted/screwwed on, and is the actuator at one end?

I have similar symtoms, in fact i have had them a while now... Sounds like most people don't find it difficult to clean the EGR valve. Annoyingly, I have no idea what an EGR valve looks like, nor how I would locate and remove it on a 2006 pd170. Any advice / photos much appreciated. Thanks.

If you take the cover off the engine, look at the main head. come down towards you and you see the inlet manifold, out the bottom of the manifold there is a big grey metal tubey bit. That should be your EGR.

Think the engine in the picture is the 140bhp one but it's to the right of the Dip Stick.

To be fair, i didn't get close enough to touch the parts to find out the construction. Didn't have any gloves with me and tbh, didn't think to.

UPDATE!

New turbo as well :( extra £1000 on top :(

dont suppose you could quikly run though what needs to be done to get the EGR vavle off?

Im guessing it unbolts from the bottom of the inlet and comes away from the rubber pipe also (with one of the stupid clips )

Does the valve itself come away from the metal body or is it all one unit?

Sorry to hear about the turbo! bad bad times fella! :(

Edited 22 November, 201114 yr by Ema_jane

Does the PD140 have these swirl flaps?

The manifold is cast on a PD140 and plastic on the PD170 from what I can see from the pictures on this thread.

dont suppose you could quikly run though what needs to be done to get the EGR vavle off?

Im guessing it unbolts from the bottom of the inlet and comes away from the rubber pipe also (with one of the stupid clips )

Does the valve itself come away from the metal body or is it all one unit?

Sorry to hear about the turbo! bad bad times fella! :(

s'allrite, these things are sent to test us

I don't have a clue how to get the EGR off. It does come away from the Inlet manifold and the pipe underneath, i assume it is bolted. Have a good look mate and see what you can see. If in doubt, contact your garage and ask them to do it for you.

Andy

There are three long bolts with allen heads and a couple of bolts to the metal pipe at the side (again allen head).

The rear most bolt from the bottom is a pain to get out.

Also you'll need new gaskets.

Does the PD140 have these swirl flaps?

From what I can gather no the PD140 doesn't, at least the ones in the Octavia don't appear to anyway.

From what I can gather no the PD140 doesn't, at least the ones in the Octavia don't appear to anyway.

One less thing to worry about.

Odd isn't it how all the emissions related systems cause so many problems.

Peizo injectors, which allow more control for better emissions control. EGR, DPF, swirl flaps.

I wonder is junking the car or producing a new engine part better or worse in terms of carbon output

One less thing to worry about.

Odd isn't it how all the emissions related systems cause so many problems.

Peizo injectors, which allow more control for better emissions control. EGR, DPF, swirl flaps.

I wonder is junking the car or producing a new engine part better or worse in terms of carbon output

And the finer particles produced by a car with a dpf cant get trapped in your lungs, they are to fine & go straight through into yopur blood to be distributed around your body !!! Cancer might be on the up in a few years

And the finer particles produced by a car with a dpf cant get trapped in your lungs, they are to fine & go straight through into yopur blood to be distributed around your body !!! Cancer might be on the up in a few years

The smaller the particles are, the further they can go.

Far better to catch the lot in a paper filter that's changed every 5k-10k miles and chuck it in a bin as a lump of coal than burn it off.

That plus, if you collect them maybe you could take them up a power station with exhaust scrubbers and slowly burn them, to generate electric from the waste.

24th November, 2011

Director of Customer Services

Skoda

Dear Sir or Madam

Skoda Octavia registration no EK07JBV

I write to ask for your help. My Octavia is 4 years old and has travelled 69,000 miles. The car has been regularly serviced and I really enjoy driving and owning it. I bought the car almost new (an ex. Demonstrator/Skoda manager’s car) with the expectation I would have a good few years of trouble-free driving, and was particularly influenced by Skoda’s reputation for excellent engineering and customer support. However, over the last 6 months there have been some unexpected problems with the injectors which were resolved with Skoda’s help but which did shake my confidence in the manufacture of this particular car.

The last week or so further problems became apparent and have become an absolute horror story for me and my family. In essence I have day by day seen a repair bill grow to £3,500. If we had not just started our family and my wife had been working this would have been very annoying but we could have coped. However, she is on maternity leave and not working and we have had to use every penny of our emergency savings putting us in the worrying situation of not being able to deal with any further costs.

Clearly no-one likes paying out large sums of money but in our case this has been annoying and stressful because the need for the repair arose from something completely out of my control, particularly as the car has been well maintained, regularly serviced and carefully driven.

The damage was caused by the failure of a swirl flap in the inlet manifold, which is not a serviceable part. This surely can only have broken as a result of faulty material or production which made the manifold not fit for purpose. Once the broken swirl flap found its way into the cylinder, it bounced around and cracked the cylinder head and bent two valves causing power loss. This was all repaired at an annoying cost of £2,500 but my annoyance turned to misery as I drove the car away and the engine management light came on because of turbo failure due to increased pressure from the engine and the waste gate not being able to cope. This added a further £1,000 to the bill.

I have discussed all this with someone in your customer services dept. who gave me many reasons why you should not help. I find these difficult to accept because I keep coming back to the fact that this huge and crippling bill results from mechanical failure in a part which does not require servicing and is integral to the engine which in my experience if regularly maintained should surely last for several hundred thousand miles.

The effect of this bill on my family means that I have to ask you please, please consider helping me through an appropriate goodwill or ex-gratia payment.

If required, I have photographs of the damage caused due to the original parts being returned in exchange for new ones and repair bills of which I can provide copies.

Yours faithfully

Andrew Sweeney

D'oh - in your letter you mention a waste gate. There isn't one.