My current setup is running both front AND rear component speakers directly off the head unit, through their respective crossovers of course. I don't have the sub yet but am hoping to get a clear picture of what I want by this weekend, when I'll have the funds available to order.

I really like the sound of your suggestion "Setting both sub and fronts centered around 100Hz with an -18dB slope". I even recognise some of the words you've used. As a sentence though, I have to admit I'm struggling :p

Actually, after looking at the table from the manuel for a couple of minutes, it looks like I can set 100Hz and -18dB without too much difficulty. I am getting that feeling I used to have doing trigonometry in school though :(

As I don't actually have the sub yet, would it be a good idea to set this now or wait until I have the lot installed?

Here's the limited info available from Vibe for my front and rear setups in case it helps:

Hope you don't mind me taking advantage of your help while we're both online

If you set it up now you'll be very bass light while you're waiting.

You might get away with setting everything to 90Hz instead if you want to maximise the punch and output you're getting from the sub. All depends on where your priorities lie, but to be honest you'll need to experiment a little. Generally you'll need to set everything to the same frequency and slope though. But not always.

I'll hang on until it's all in then, less bass is not what I need right now!

So to get it straight in my head what I'm actually adjusting here: setting the high-pass crossover to 100Hz will mean that only sounds ABOVE that frequency get sent to the front or rear as I set them. That would explain why it would result in a lack of bass, as I don't currently have a sub to take over the low frequency sounds excluded by that setting. :S

Adjusting the "slope" setting shows a helpful graphic on the head unit, and from that I deduce that the high-pass setting is not an absolute cut at 100Hz, but a gradual cut-off of the filtered frequencies as they approach that level. The slope describes how sharp that cutoff actually is. Picking up a word out of that nice sentence of yours, the angle of the slope is "centered" on the 100Hz line, so it ramps either side of it.

This is making connections in my head, but am I ACTUALLY getting it? :wonder:

Taking it one step further, the frequency response of my speakers are 55 and 60Hz, should I whack those figures in to prevent sounds below that frequency being sent to the speakers? :wonder:

how about a small sub in the wheel well inside the spare wheel, and put the jack under the seat, this is what i've done. no need to worry about heating.

Well I was actually just looking through some and I saw this Pioneer that's built for just such a setup. http://www.thurgo.co.uk/pioneer-ts-wx610a-i22048.html

It's kind of expensive and seems to cost mostly because of it's design, rather than it's abilities.

Boot space isn't actually critical for me anyway, and I was really considering an under-seat installation because I want to listen to it INSIDE the cabin, rather than have it loud enough to hear from the boot. I'm more likely to be listening to Texas than techno, although a I do love a good vocal house tune. If an 8-10" boot sub is built to shake your GFs boobies rather than to add depth to the music, then they're probably not for me :p

I really need to listen to a few before deciding, so I think I'll head to Uplands in Cardiff, my local ICE specialists. I'm keen to add deep bass but I don't want to drown out the music and vocals, hard to figure out before it's bought and installed I expect :'(

it's not the location of the sub that determines how loud it is. loads of factorss, loadsof subs to choose from depending on the application. having a sub in the boot does not mean youre a head banger. i have a 10 inch sub in my wheel well and most the time i listen to acoustic or country.

if u've got the tools i'd consider making your own as the right setup can sound miles better than a pre-made all-in-one bult-in amp jobbies, and cheaper.

Edited 6 December, 201114 yr by fabia55

I'll hang on until it's all in then, less bass is not what I need right now!

So to get it straight in my head what I'm actually adjusting here: setting the high-pass crossover to 100Hz will mean that only sounds ABOVE that frequency get sent to the front or rear as I set them. That would explain why it would result in a lack of bass, as I don't currently have a sub to take over the low frequency sounds excluded by that setting. :S

Adjusting the "slope" setting shows a helpful graphic on the head unit, and from that I deduce that the high-pass setting is not an absolute cut at 100Hz, but a gradual cut-off of the filtered frequencies as they approach that level. The slope describes how sharp that cutoff actually is. Picking up a word out of that nice sentence of yours, the angle of the slope is "centered" on the 100Hz line, so it ramps either side of it.

This is making connections in my head, but am I ACTUALLY getting it? :wonder:

Spot on dear boy.

Taking it one step further, the frequency response of my speakers are 55 and 60Hz, should I whack those figures in to prevent sounds below that frequency being sent to the speakers? :wonder:

No. Doing that won't take ANY of the load off your speakers at all. Those are the points where they stop usefully creating the frequencies and are already working hard at that point. Best to raise well above that to give them an easier time. I wouldn't go above 100Hz on anything though, as it isn't all that bassy, and you don't want to waste the subwoofers time with such frequencies. Frequencies above 100Hz are more direction dependant, in that you can hear WHERE they are coming from. The sub-bass frequencies are transmitted via other means. Don't worry about a sub being in the boot. The sound will get through and you won't notice. Especially if you set the cut-off point lower, say 90Hz. Ideally you want to choose roughly the same crossover frequency for all the speakers, but this doesn't always work in practise. If you have an overlap point, you may find yourself overwhelmed by frequencies within that overlap.

Let me know when your around here next and you can call in.

I used to do huuuge systems backin the 90's I'm a little rusty but you ask and I'll tell what I can remember

You can have a listen to mine whic came in at around £200 not including HU, it's not massive but it does the job cheap enough and easy to fit.

I have a JBL cheap ass sub and a cheapo amp because the JBL on melted down lol I got Infinity comps up[ front and the HU power the midds etc.

Not bad but not like my £5k 132dB set up I ran back in about 1992ish, that one got me a noise pollution warning from the council

Excellent stuff, I will certainly let you know when I'll be around. Thanks for that.

Perhaps when I've seen a physical install I'll be keen to try the entire wiring up myself too, if I'm feeling brave