Thanks for the link anewman - not sure how I managed to miss that one on this forum!

Good advice for the radiator which certainly needs doing.

You state - [My usual procedure would be drain existing oil and remove filter and drain that too. Fill with flushing oil and run engine for as long as suggested on bottle. Drain that. Put in the cheapest 10w-40 oil you can find, repeat same procedure as for flushing oil and drain that (to remove flushing oil, this step probably not necessary but I like to think there's no flushing oil left). Then new oil filter and top up with good stuff.] -

Is this correct running the engine without an oil filter when using both the Flushing Oil & cheapo 10w-40 Oil?

I am sure I would not chance it.

I think it needs a re-edit PDQ.

DB.

I think it stands to reason and common sense you would drain the oil from the filter then screw it back on.

I think it stands to reason and common sense you would drain the oil from the filter then screw it back on.

http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-general-discussion/368307-im-done-with-this-car.html

http://mustangforums.com/forum/5-0l-general-discussion/368307-im-done-with-this-car.html

Yeh that guy is an urban legend There's another one involving SAND in the engine, I kid you not.

The best and easiest way to do an engine oil flush is to use Wynns engine flush....used it on many cars in the past 18yrs

my linky showing it on my mates 1.4MPI engine and desription........

http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/208388-why-you-should-use-wynns-engine-flush/

I think it stands to reason and common sense you would drain the oil from the filter then screw it back on.

I totally agree, but someone who is not mechanically minded may follow the instructions to the letter, it really needs re-editing.

DB.

Would it be worth getting the cylinder head pressure tested? Or are there some 'tell tale' signs that would make it more prudent to do so?

Is there anywhere that will pressure test and skim the head in the Hereford / Worcester area? I am told by a local mechanic there is one in Hereford, but no info on who or where was forthcoming.

Must admit that it is the tight tolerances (<0.05mm) on the skimming that make me most worried about doing the job so having it skimmed (and possily pressure tested in one go) could be a good move for me.

Bit of an update and some pictures (hopefully).

Went to the local Skoda dealer this morning (Startin near Worcester - most helpful) and have now flushed out the coolant and replaced with cheap stuff as a short term measure (to help clean the system out) until I can do the gaskets.

According to Skoda I need a new expansion tank, which I thought I could clean out. Having tried hard, I just can't get to it, so one of these will be on order along with gaskets, etc.

Having cleaned up a bit of the leaking oil, it seems that I do have the upgraded Temac gasket seal, but I do not know how long it has ben on there. Does anyone know when these were introduced (at least that would give a worst case scenario, but it has been on there for at least three years and 30,000 miles).

The purple arrow (left) shows the state of the expansion tank even after my best attempts at cleaning it out - time for a new one...

The aqua arrow (right) shows where I've had quite a bit of oil leaking down the outside of the cylinder head and further down i to the engine bay.

The green arrow (bottom) in this close up shows that I have got the Temac gasket and also, after I cleaned it up and ran the car around for a while, showed no sign of oil leaking here.

However, the red arrow (top) shows where oil is definitely leaking out while the engine is running. I've cleaned it three times today, and every time new oil comes back.

Can anyone offer further advice on this problem?

Does this suggest that just the top gasket needs replacing or is that just false economy given that the lower gasket is now a minimum of three years old?

The Temac gaskets were fitted from factory so could be an original, to be fair you may well get away for now just changing the rocker cover gasket.

I did wonder if it was you when Paul asked me for a list of gaskets you would need..lol

The rocker cover gasket, where leaking from at red arrow, costs next to nothing. Might be worth replacing the 2 rubber seals on top too.

The Temac gaskets were fitted from factory so could be an original, to be fair you may well get away for now just changing the rocker cover gasket.

Rocker cover gasket definitely needs doing and seems like a pretty straight forward job (even for me).

I did wonder if it was you when Paul asked me for a list of gaskets you would need..lol

Now you know! Came in this morning to pick up some pieces after Paul had had problems emailing the info to me yesterday.

The rocker cover gasket, where leaking from at red arrow, costs next to nothing. Might be worth replacing the 2 rubber seals on top too.

The two seals on top are perished so will be replacing them as well, but I didn't get those listed so don't have a part number. Anyone any ideas or even what they are called?

I believe part numbers are rocker cover gasket - 047103483, seal - 047103532 (2 required). You should have plenty of change from a fiver. Don't do the nuts on top up too tight. Hand tight only.

Lube the new rocker cover gasket and the two grommets with new engine oil...the rocker cover gasket goes hard with age and heat and is the main cause for oil leaks!!!!!...also only a low torque setting for the two nuts.....

I believe part numbers are rocker cover gasket - 047103483, seal - 047103532 (2 required). You should have plenty of change from a fiver. Don't do the nuts on top up too tight. Hand tight only.

Lube the new rocker cover gasket and the two grommets with new engine oil...the rocker cover gasket goes hard with age and heat and is the main cause for oil leaks!!!!!...also only a low torque setting for the two nuts.....

Thanks for the advice / guidance guys. Parts have now been ordered from local dealer and should be in on Wednesday and I was surprised to find that most parts were cheaper from the dealer than were available online (without resorting to ultra cheap parts). Bonus!

Will have a go at the end of the week and let you know how I get on.

Just had a thought - would the oil leak from the rocker cover gasket be causing the problem with sludge / oil in the coolant?

Just had a thought - would the oil leak from the rocker cover gasket be causing the problem with sludge / oil in the coolant?

To a small extent as the oil leaks onto the bottom coolant metal pipe then travels along and then soaks into the rubber pipe!

If it doesn't cure it and a ggod clean out a flush and refill of the coolant system don't cure it either then defo a new head gasket....

I have my doubts that oil can penetrate a hose and infiltrate a cooling system, without the coolant escaping under pressure. It's impermeable to water. Oil can certainly break down the hoses and make them deteriorate over time. The thick hose from the rocker cover to the throttle body can exhibit this defect, if you give it a squeeze it may well feel much thinner and squeezier at the rocker cover end - where the hose is subjected to more oil internally.

Sorry to hijack the thread. Just did not want to start a new one as its kinda related.

Anyway Finally got around to getting this job done.. Kseal lasted for a few month now the problem has came back. Parts have been ordered.

Anyway quick question as I have seen loads of conflicting information about this. Should I get the head skimmed or not. The reason I am asking for is the person that's doing it will not provide a warranty unless I get it skimmed and pressure tested. Its only a extra £60 and I think it gives that little less worry about it going wrong again.

Is there any reason I should not get it skimmed?

I was thinking about doing the job myself but its cold outside and I am lazy

I can understand why they wouldn't give a warranty unless you get it pressure tested: how would they know whether it doesn't have a cracked cylinder head?

If just changing the seals doesn't work, then they would have to take it all apart and start again!

I found a local supplier to me (Worcestershire) who would, with prior notice, take in the cylinder head in the morning and have it ready that evening. This would mean that I'd have the car off the road for three days (one to take apart, one for skimming and one to rebuild engine).

I have cleaned out the coolant system as best I could, but had some left in old expansion tank, so have bought a new one. Still have sludge in oil (haven't changed that yet) which does seem to be getting worse.

Think that I am going to have to go for the full gasket change and head skimming... But do I take the risk that it is not cracked or get it professionally skimmed and pressure tested?

For the extra cost as it was only £60. I have got it done and I get my head back today. And hopefully after the car is back together all is good again

Update.

Eight months on and two days work and it's done (almost).

It did look as though the head gasket was leaking and some of the manifold gaskets had been blowing a little.

It seems like a broken plastic clip inside the thermostat housing might have been the cause of head gasket failure (and old age), so a new housing was needed (but you can't get that without the thermostat!)

New gaskets all round, new cylinder head & valves, and new bolts, expansion tank, oil & filter and now I'm just flushing the radiator out.

I've got some proper cleaner in the cooling system (Holts Speedflush - it was all I could get locally) but it's not getting all the gunk out if the expansion tank. And it's the new one.

Will I ever get that clean?

Will the car run better than before (more MPG & better response)?

I've got some proper cleaner in the cooling system (Holts Speedflush - it was all I could get locally) but it's not getting all the gunk out if the expansion tank. And it's the new one.

I found Normfest CC442 radiator flush far superior. Euro Car Parts used to stock it. Seems it's available here http://www.type911sh...d=894&aid=4232 and to be honest the price is about the same as it was at ECP, and worth the extra cost. Seemed to dissolve all the crap very well. It smells a bit like brake cleaner, which probably explains its effectiveness.

To get gunk out of the expansion tank, the best way is probably to remove it and spray brake cleaner inside, and give it a good shake. At least that's how I managed to get it looking like new again.

Will the car run better than before (more MPG & better response)?

I think only if it was leaking between a combustion chamber (rather than just oil to coolant), then there's a chance. If the manifold gaskets were blowing, then IMO you should definitely see a marginal improvement.

Edited 24 August, 201213 yr by anewman

I found Normfest CC442 radiator flush far superior. Euro Car Parts used to stock it. Seems it's available here http://www.type911sh....d=894&aid=4232 and to be honest the price is about the same as it was at ECP, and worth the extra cost. Seemed to dissolve all the crap very well. It smells a bit like brake cleaner, which probably explains its effectiveness.

Think I might get some on order then. The cooling system itself seems to run clean when flushed with water, it's just the brand new expansion tank that I put on has quickly collected the gunk in the crevices and looks almost as bad as the old one (but with out the staining).

To get gunk out of the expansion tank, the best way is probably to remove it and spray brake cleaner inside, and give it a good shake. At least that's how I managed to get it looking like new again.

Mind you, having seen the price of brake cleaner (and not really needing to flush the coolant system again, I might just go for the brake cleaner...

Thanks for the info and links.

Thanks for the tips - the brake cleaner worked a treat on the expansion tank and, apart from a small amount left in the pipes, it is as good as new (almost).

A few months on and it seems that it was the head gasket that was the problem and the new one has cured it. No gunk has reappeared despite the car being used for a number of short journeys each week (as well as a few longer ones).

Thank you to everyone for their advice and assistance.

Happy to help. I think I will have the joy of having to replace my headgasket sometime in the near future. Coolant has been going down slowly for a while, and mayo has been forming in the oil cap. I cleaned the cooling system out, and while it doesn't look as bad as it has done before, it's looking quite murky. Coolant loss seems quite consistent over time, and not increasing - which is annoying as it would make it 100% clear where it's disappearing to.

Garages I have taken it to (usually at MOT time) have said they think the headgasket is fine, and one thought coolant loss was quite normal. The one also said the thermostat was fine, but I took it off to find the usual broken clips. I figure garages only see cars people take in when they've blown up or clouds of white smoke exit the exhaust, lol.

I do wonder if replacing the headgasket would cure the issue of it taking longer to start when warm. I have changed the temp sender numerous times without any improvement, although interestingly, disconnecting the temp sender makes it start perfectly.

I guess the fact brake cleaner, breaks it down, suggests it is oil based gunk.

Edited 6 October, 201213 yr by anewman