Help with Estelle please!

[KenONeill]

Thanks for the replies! All going well, but on to the next issue (sigh)...

Any other ideas on why it won't restart when warm? Can't exactly go to the petrol station if once I turn it off I need to wait 20 minutes for it to cool down before starting again... Have already replaced the ignition coil with a used one - perhaps I need a new one?

Need more info:-

1. Is it part-warm or full hot?
   
2. Is that carb auto choke, manual choke, or chokeless?
   
3. Does it spin at full speed on the starter? If not, then you may need a new starter. Otherwise:-
   

• Does it sound like it's trying to start?
  

1. If so, then I suspect fuel vapourisation. You might need a better heat shield, or an airbox and CAI for the carb.
   
2. If not, then you have an ignition fault. From oldest to newest, try replacing the condensor, coil and HT leads in order of age.
   

[VWD]

You should manage as a novice. I'd say the trickiest part was installing and gapping the points. Hoses are straight forward but a struggle and a strain. Goes without saying that the usual safety considerations should be taken when working underneath the car.

Know this an old(sh) post, so please be kind. Gapping points- I was trained to gap relays, so points are a bit easier. However, if you can shy well clear of the "fastfit" type- comes in a unit- all you do is screw them in and fit lead under nut. I'd no end of problems with that sort when they first came out. The insulation is "cheap & nasty" and breaks down when warm. ( Did I someone mention this WAY back?)

Back to gapping- possibly i'm talking to granny about sucking eggs, but bear with me.

I last did it on big ( 2000 cc) rear enders - engine in front- drive to rear and 1750 FWD, so you might not need to go this far. I'd take out plugs ( makes turning engine over when in gear( highest possible) a bit easier),and pull car to find widest gap( In my day we had a funny thing called a "STARTING HANDLE"). Set gap to roughly the makers setting. Roll car backwards ,watching to see that gap gets less.Move car forward to get to the point of max gap. Takes a bit of practice, but it's all about experience. Now with gap at max, select gauges to get 1 unit less than the makers setting. Tighten screw, and check. OK? - NOW check at setting +1. Gauge should be very tight. At makers setting, guage should want to enter,but object .( But that's being really fussy). OH- had problems on a mate's Estelle with poor starting- Dizzy was loose.Pays to look at first principles.

[KenONeill]

Know this an old(sh) post, so please be kind. Gapping points- I was trained to gap relays, so points are a bit easier. However, if you can shy well clear of the "fastfit" type- comes in a unit- all you do is screw them in and fit lead under nut. I'd no end of problems with that sort when they first came out. The insulation is "cheap & nasty" and breaks down when warm. ( Did I someone mention this WAY back?)

Back to gapping- possibly i'm talking to granny about sucking eggs, but bear with me.

I last did it on big ( 2000 cc) rear enders - engine in front- drive to rear and 1750 FWD, so you might not need to go this far. I'd take out plugs ( makes turning engine over when in gear( highest possible) a bit easier),and pull car to find widest gap( In my day we had a funny thing called a "STARTING HANDLE"). Set gap to roughly the makers setting. Roll car backwards ,watching to see that gap gets less.Move car forward to get to the point of max gap. Takes a bit of practice, but it's all about experience. Now with gap at max, select gauges to get 1 unit less than the makers setting. Tighten screw, and check. OK? - NOW check at setting +1. Gauge should be very tight. At makers setting, guage should want to enter,but object .( But that's being really fussy). OH- had problems on a mate's Estelle with poor starting- Dizzy was loose.Pays to look at first principles.

I was taught it a bit different:-

1) Turn engine until points are fully open on top of the cam in the distributor (any cylinder).

2) Loosen point clamp screw and adjust gap to get a tight sliding fit. The method above will work if your feeler guages are in 1 or 2 thousandth intervals. Otherwise, you're looking for a fit where you feel some drag but the guage moves in without actually bending.

3) Tighten up the clamp screw.

4) Check you didn't move the gap when you tightened the clamp screw.If you did then go to (2).

5) Check that you tightened the clamp screw.

[buffalox]

Hello all,

 

As it had stopped raining (up until yesterday of course) I was trying to work on the Estelle again but with no joy.

There's nothing obviously wrong, all suggestions have been tried to the best of my abilities, it just won't start easily or stay running. Fuel comes into the carb no problem, it just... won't... work!

 

Does anyone know of anyone in hampshire/west sussex that would be able/willing to help me out?

 

Thanks!

Richard

Edited 29 July, 2013 by buffalox

[hawkeracing]

Try going onto the other forum and contacting Skudman, he is down there and knows his stuff....he runs Skoparts International the parts supplier and has a collection of S and Estelles.

[skodanorman]

Are you on commission? :-P

How much further have you got with the car since October? I know you say it still doesn't work "right" but I was wondering what you've done?

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