Jump to content

Engine Management Light?


Recommended Posts

Hi all, I'm a bit worried about my '01 VRS that I picked up yesterday. I took it for a spin on some country roads today to get a feel for it, and while I was driving the EML came on...

It feels no different whatsoever, and everything appears to be fine, still boosts well, idles smoothly, doesn't missfire or struggle at any revs, and mpg doesn't seem to have changed. The whole car feels absolutely fine, drove it the 70 miles home with no issues...

The only thing I can think is that I turned off the traction control about 5 minutes before it came on, could that have upset it somehow? And also, I've noticed it takes quite a while to get up to temperature from cold, and always tends to run fairly cool (I think), on the M-way it's only just above the lowest mark on the gauge. Could that mean there's some kind of issue with a coolant or temperature sensor? I'm new to VAG and I've always had cheap, old cars, so all this electronic stuff is a mystery to me, and to be honest I'm terrified that I've blown my savings on a dud :(

Seeing as I only picked it up yesterday, should I just take it back to the dealer I bought it from? I usually buy private, but would a dealer be expected to check this out for me?

I'm bricking it :S

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the dealer didn't tell you about the EML when you bought it I would expect them to fix it.

Sounds like the thermostat could be stuck open and/or a faulty coolant temperature sensor. I would recommend getting a diagnostics cable then you can check/clear fault codes yourself.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know generally when a car runs too cool mpg tends to suffer badly, I had that problem with a 306 GTI doing 12 mpg on a run. The MFA was showing 35-36 mpg at a steady 70 on the A1, does that sound heavy mate?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds like the coolant temp sensor has a problem if your gauge is barely moving. If it's gone open circuit or intermittent it will cause the EML to come on. Coolant temp sensor is a very common failure on VAG cars. Genuine VAG temp sensor is a must if you do need to replace it. £25 from main dealer, & takes max of 10 mins to replace.

I don't think you should get too worried just go back to the dealer, & see if they're prepared to sort it out.

I'd expect to get high 30's on a steady 70mph run.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers lads, that's a relief! I'm going back to the dealer on Friday because their fixing the height adjuster on the drivers seat as part of the asking price, so I'll see if they'll at least scan and reset it for free (VAG specialists) and then if it says temp sensor I can easily sort that and the thermostat myself. Parts are cheaper than I expected too, a 'stat for a Skoda is cheaper than the last one I bought which was for a 106 GTI...

I still love this car :rofl:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have this problem too my car has been running great I took it to the garage who turned it off they said its most likely a faulty sensor , my car is the mk1 Octavia vrs seems like a common fault as my friends does the same and his is the same model. 😉 just need to get mine sorted when I have some spare dollar

Link to comment
Share on other sites

EML with no change in car behavior sounds like CTS to me

+1

Only way to truly know is plugging her in.. You will find that your car is actually probably running at normal temp returning that sort of mpg on a motorway run at 70-80 you'd typically see 34-38 mpg depending on how steady you are etc..

driving at 60-65 you can easily see 40+

But i'd have thought if your motor was actually running cold you'd be suffering a lot more than that

P.S If you have to change it, ensure you use an OEM Sensor.. only a few quid. Do not use cheap replicas, they will fail again. The most recent part is green iirc

Edited by Lew_VRS
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took it back to the dealer yesterday, they scanned it for codes and it came back that the CTS was dead, they also got the thermostat out and tested it, and it was stuck open. They replaced those for me and cleared the EML and now it's slightly better on juice on a run, about 38-39 at a constant 70, but loads better round town, picks up better from low revs as well, cheers guys :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening all, Replaced my MAF today as My traction control light was on :| along with engine management light. Traction light gone out but engine light still on after changing parts over, now I dont have a VCDS or Vagcom or whatever all you clever people have. Does the light need to be reset via the above systems or will the car learn that it well again now. ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Evening all, Replaced my MAF today as My traction control light was on :| along with engine management light. Traction light gone out but engine light still on after changing parts over, now I dont have a VCDS or Vagcom or whatever all you clever people have. Does the light need to be reset via the above systems or will the car learn that it well again now. ??

I replaced my MAF a couple of weeks ago and I think the light didn't go off until I'd started/stopped the engine a couple of times and driven home from work. If the light hasn't gone off after a couple more starts/joruneys then I would get VCDS onto it. You can get a cable for under a tenner on eBay and use the lite version for free. :thumbup:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What he said. It could be that there's another issue that's caused the light to come on.

Try disconnecting the battery for a few minutes. That should rest it, but you will need radio codes etc.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Yeah I've been looking at that, the VCDS thing? It won't blank the ECU or anything will it?

Are there any common things that cause the EML or is it pretty much anyting that does it? I've heard it could be a MAF sensor?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Something like this should do you:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-VAG-Diagnostic-Fault-Code-Reader-CAN-OBD2-/150667799048?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2314802a08

Or the cheap chinese cables can be bought for less than that but are a bit unreliable, you have to download the free version of VCDS from the Ross-Tech website to use with them:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-VAG-COM-409-1-OBD-2-II-CABLE-LEAD-AUDI-VW-VAG-/220518250615?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3357e97877

http://www.ross-tech.com/vcds-lite/download/index.html

Or if you're really feeling flush the full version of VAG-Com is £264

http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCHU.html

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Community Partner

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.