Hey,

I need to remove my front passenger door and replace it. I have had a quick look but can't seem to get my star headed bit in the gap.

Has any one any tips or could point me in the right direction to a tool that i need to get the door off?

Any help appreciated!

Thanks :yes:

Ok, After a bit of looking around i have found that you can buy a little kit that should help remove the door. I have gone for a Sealey - door hinge & handle removal kit - VS805.

You need to undo the 13mm nut on top and bottom hinge, may be under a plastic cap, the check strap, unplug wiring and lift it off.

You don't undo the torx bolts.

Resurrecting this thread to ask if anyone can shed more light on how the wiring actually unplugs. I see each connector is fairly buried inside with hardly any access with the door still on the vehicle. 
 

Is the white plastic surround a retainer for the plugs or does each plug have to individually unclip (maybe you get more access with check strap undone..?)

 

I’m considering a used door to replace my dented one because there’s one in my colour at a breakers yard but would like to fully understand the procedure before diving in. 
 

I also have an unfitted new electric lock because my central door locking stopped working so might’ve fitted this to the new door (or perhaps firstly take a chance it’ll work on the new door I got).
 

many thanks 

Edited 27 April, 20224 yr by silver50

The white bit is intended to come out with the rubber boot still fitted to it, squeezing the vertical edges in towards each other should release the clips. Easier said than done TBF.

Then there are individual release catches on each of the four connectors that you will have slightly better access to with boot and white surround pulled as far back as poss along the wiring.

5 minutes ago, Pete_Ex-Wino said:

The white bit is intended to come out with the rubber boot still fitted to it, squeezing the vertical edges in towards each other should release the clips. Easier said than done TBF.

Then there are individual release catches on each of the four connectors that you will have slightly better access to with boot and white surround pulled as far back as poss along the wiring.

Ah ok, many thanks.

However you manage to get the white bit out, you definitely want to refit the rubber boot to it before you fit it back in at the end of the job. It's a real struggle to get the boot properly onto it in-situ, but really easy when it's out with all the cables unplugged.

Edited 27 April, 20224 yr by Pete_Ex-Wino