Hi Folks,

I've just had a bit of an issue with the coolant on my octy vRS. Last night, I was enjoying a spirited drive from London to Reading...

When almost @ my destination my temp/coolant warning came on claiming I'd hit the 130 degree marker. (This was during the warm down phase of the trip, cruising @ 3000rpm.)

obviously I dropped right down in speed & watched the temp drop over the next mile or two. (I agree, I probably should have stopped straight away).

Once stopped had a look around in the dark, and could help but notice lots of steamy & sputtering noises from coolant system... :eek:

Thought I'd leave it till today and see if it recovered.... Coolant levels were OK... ~middle of min & max when cold.

First switch on today... straight to warnings. So promptly off again. Unscrewed the cap on coolant resevoir, then replaced & all is ok again (or at least appears to be).

Any ideas as to what could have happened & should I take it in to the dealers for a check?

Cheers,

K

Deffo take it in for a check, doesnt sound to promising.

Thanks Mate.

Drove it back to London today, after putting a little extra fluid in. It seems that when the revs are over 2400 the heat starts to build up. Anything lower than 2400 and the heat drops to about 90 degrees.

Sitting in traffic, it is fine, but cruise down the motorway & hey presto its up (unless you're doing about 55/60 Mph).

Took it into the dealers (always helpful). They ran diagnostics but found no error codes at all. So in on weds for a full, detailed look over.

Has anyone encountered anything similar at all.? The car is remapped (jabba), is it likely that this is causing the problem?

Cheers,

Keoghan

Is it possile that this is caused by a damaged/broken thermostat? The only thing I can think of that would do it is if the coolant is not being let out to the rad?

Cheers,

K

Is it possile that this is caused by a damaged/broken thermostat? The only thing I can think of that would do it is if the coolant is not being let out to the rad?

Cheers' date='

K[/quote']

(just been reading howstuffworks.com)

Well, a little more reading around the subject 7 I'm pretty sure that the thermostat is the problem.

Ran the car for a bit today to get it warm, then checked the inlet & outlet pipes for the radiator. It seems the inlet is hot (as expected) but the outlet remains very much cold. Leading to the conclusion that the thermostat is remaining shut.

I assume that if there are low revs, the additional heat thrown out by the motor is reltively small and is dissapated well enough without the rad.

time will tell.

Cheers,

K

Hi Folks,

Had the thermostat replaced, and the car is still overheating... only when revving above 2400. They garage also checked the coolant flow to ensure the water pump was working & is OK.

Truly I have no idea what else it could be. Does anyone have any ideas, could it be something to do with the exhaust? Where is the temperature read from?

Any help appreciated.

Cheers,

Keoghan

My thought was thermos. :confused:

Is there a minor blockage anywhere, it appears that running fast, there is not enough coolant running through, but at low speed it is o.k.. Just an thought.

There may be... how do I go about finding it?

K

Problem is the water pump, the inner rotor is slipping over the axel when the engine is going over 2500 RPM.

thanks... will get the pump replaced on monday have you had the same problem?

cheers

k

just out of interest, would anyone know whether the original pump would be one with a plastic impeller?

it was first registered in dec 2001, so made fairly early on. cheers, K

There are 2 different pumps listed for the 1.8T depending on chassis number but I don't know if both are metal impeller versions or not. A friend with a T-reg 1.9 diesel had the (plastic) pump fail on his car with expensive repercussions.

Thanks for your help guys... the dealers have confirmed that the waterpump is indeed broken (the impeller was plastic). So should be fixed today!

I am looking forwar to driving above 50mph again and inspecting the old pump

I have also had the cam belt changed (again since they need it off to get to the pump I believe). I would guess that some good advice would be to change the pump when changing the cambelt just to be sure... and save some potential disasters.

(I think I've read that recommendation before somwhere though)

Cheers,

K

Have you been charged for a new pump (circa

Is it possile that this is caused by a damaged/broken thermostat? The only thing I can think of that would do it is if the coolant is not being let out to the rad?

Cheers' date='

K[/quote']

I had a similar occurance with my last Octy RS. I stopped immediately, and Skoda Assistance took it away. The thermostat & water pump(s) were replaced under warranty. In a seperate incident, the expansion bottle & sensor were also replaced.

Have you been charged for a new pump (circa

Old water pump part number: 06a 121 021 a

New water pump part number: 06a 121 011 t

The water pump was a completely new one costing

The good news is that the car is running fine now... (about

The good news is that the car is running fine now... (about

yep, plastic impellers!