Apologies for the numerous threads in such a short space of time...I'm trying to collate together all the info I found on maintaining my newly acquired 1.9TDI in one convenient thread and be corrected on anything I've got wrong.

Would like to keep costs to a minimum and DIY as much as I can, resorting to the garage for anything beyond my competency. The furby in question is 10 years old with 85k on the clock. Had an oil change at 83k and within the last two years had it's brake fluid, all brake pads and coolant renewed. MOT due in Nov. Booked it in for a cambelt & waterpump change.

I've comprised the following schedule....anything I've missed off?

Annual/10k: oil change (correct PD oil), oil filter, air filter, check brake pads, check tyre wear

Biennial/20k: renew brake fluid (with eezibleed), renew coolant, fuel filter, grease hinges

Quadrennial/40k: cambelt + water pump (garage), pollen filter

If I do the annual stuff I can do myself, then take it to a garage to check the suspension, exhaust etc....hopefully they'd charge less? Only because I haven't got the experience to tell what is worn/about to go.

It's been a steep learning curve since my first MPI...all thanks to everyone on here who have been so pleasantly forthcoming with their advice and suggestions...with a dabble in Mr. Haynes.

Apologies for the numerous threads in such a short space of time...I'm trying to collate together all the info I found on maintaining my newly acquired 1.9TDI in one convenient thread and be corrected on anything I've got wrong.

Would like to keep costs to a minimum and DIY as much as I can, resorting to the garage for anything beyond my competency. The furby in question is 10 years old with 85k on the clock. Had an oil change at 83k and within the last two years had it's brake fluid, all brake pads and coolant renewed. MOT due in Nov. Booked it in for a cambelt & waterpump change.

I've comprised the following schedule....anything I've missed off?

Annual/10k: oil change (correct PD oil), oil filter, air filter, check brake pads, check tyre wear

Biennial/20k: renew brake fluid (with eezibleed), renew coolant, fuel filter, grease hinges

Quadrennial/40k: cambelt + water pump (garage), pollen filter

If I do the annual stuff I can do myself, then take it to a garage to check the suspension, exhaust etc....hopefully they'd charge less? Only because I haven't got the experience to tell what is worn/about to go.

It's been a steep learning curve since my first MPI...all thanks to everyone on here who have been so pleasantly forthcoming with their advice and suggestions...with a dabble in Mr. Haynes.

I'd go a lot less on tyre wear. And when getting new tyres, that's a good time to have a look at the brake pads . Exhaust - I don't know what the average on your model is,but mine is now aproaching eight years old, with a heatshield getting corroded, but still not leaking. DISCS- might I suggest getting a cheap micrometer ( somewhere like Aldi) ,and keeping an eye on the discs. ( zero with couple of nuts in jaws to get a true measurement over outer layer of crud, and measure with nuts beween jaws and disc) .

Battery /charging system. best way to check battery is using garage kit, but it's possible to keep an eye on charging with a cheap meter( plenty of cheap digital ones on the market) .

Edited 31 March, 201214 yr by VWD

Sounds pretty solid to me mate, though I do the fuel filter annually. I think the coolant change is recommended to be a bit longer though, I think 40k?

Sounds pretty solid to me mate, though I do the fuel filter annually. I think the coolant change is recommended to be a bit longer though, I think 40k?

Haynes says a bit longer than that,if Skoda G12recommended LONGLIFE STUFF IS USED .Possibly Tech1e might pass judgement on that. However, if you stick to cambelt with water pump changes, itll be done every four years/60k.

Really appreciate your time.

Without sounding like a noob, how can I tell if the exhaust is on it's way out?

I've been using a voltmeter to check battery charging status...should I look at that as often as I check the tyres? Check brake discs at the same time too....say 6-monthly? Will invest in a micrometer, thanks for the tip.

I've got one of those coolant turkey baster things that check how dilute the coolant is....so I'll just check it annually and leave the changes longer at 40k.

Should the fuel filter be at 10k with the oil change? or just annually?

Really appreciate your time.

Without sounding like a noob, how can I tell if the exhaust is on it's way out?

When it starts making a row. My exhaust has done over 138,000 miles and has got an advisory for the last 4 years for rust on the outside. Basically diesel exhausts don't rust like petrol as the diesel engines don't produce the water.

Really appreciate your time.

Without sounding like a noob, how can I tell if the exhaust is on it's way out?

I've been using a voltmeter to check battery charging status...should I look at that as often as I check the tyres? Check brake discs at the same time too....say 6-monthly? Will invest in a micrometer, thanks for the tip.

I've got one of those coolant turkey baster things that check how dilute the coolant is....so I'll just check it annually and leave the changes longer at 40k.

Should the fuel filter be at 10k with the oil change? or just annually?

Brake discs- I've got 66k on a 1.4TDI, Last check at 55k,when I changed pads they were half way down . Battery/charging- I've always used headlamp output as a guide to check. And from tips on here, if anythings wrong, the light output will vary as steering is moved .i shocked one MOT bloke, when he decided my discs were worn.i'd just changed pads, and checked discs. He said they were worn ,I quoted him the figures., and asked if he's change tyres at 50% worn ,with no bad bits . Still got the advisory, but I knew then he was fishing for work . Exhaust - might be worth finding a fast fit place you can trust. Although ,if you trust MOT man ,he'll usualy mention it. As said, I've had advisories on worn heat shield , had it checked ,and no problems to report . Again ,garage had had warning for iff practices previously, and backs were being protected .

Fuel filter -another one for the likes of TECH1e,.Although Haynes doesn't give mileages, the service schedule ( service book) might

Edited 31 March, 201214 yr by VWD

When it starts making a row. My exhaust has done over 138,000 miles and has got an advisory for the last 4 years for rust on the outside. Basically diesel exhausts don't rust like petrol as the diesel engines don't produce the water.

God news for me then, as Im only on 66k . I'm old school and replace it when needed. I believe it'll tell you when .

Fuel filter-40000 or 4 years using normal UK diesel or better.

Oh I forgot that the coolant would get changed with the waterpump....that's one less solo job to do then.

I've seen a guide here for brake pad changes...seems straightforward enough, so will attempt that when due. Maybe at the same time as bleeding the brake fluid as is easier with wheel removed.

Should the fuel filter be done more often than 40k/4yrs if I use standard supermarket diesel? Is the TDI picky with fuel, like how the 1.4 16v prefers premium petrol as opposed to the MPI?

Any benefit in running cataclean or redex in diesels?

Oh I forgot that the coolant would get changed with the waterpump....that's one less solo job to do then.

I've seen a guide here for brake pad changes...seems straightforward enough, so will attempt that when due. Maybe at the same time as bleeding the brake fluid as is easier with wheel removed.

Should the fuel filter be done more often than 40k/4yrs if I use standard supermarket diesel? Is the TDI picky with fuel, like how the 1.4 16v prefers premium petrol as opposed to the MPI?

Any benefit in running cataclean or redex in diesels?

Seen a few items that say don't use any additives. My 1.4 thrives on supermart diesel. I've also seen a few items on here about folks needing helicoils on the threads on changing pads, so perhaps a common point to look out for . I always push pads in before taking calipers off( pair of bike tyre levers does the job,I find). I find it easier ., and if you mark the old pads, it don't matter, as they're heading binwise.

^^I'll read up more thoroughly when the brake pads need doing. Maybe spray wd-40 before removing the bolts to prevent stripping the threads?

On another note, are there any engine components which should be cleaned? On the MPI I did the throttle body, MAP sensor and was going to use Wynn's engine flush inside the rocker...