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Persisting boot tailgate lights failure (2005 TDi Estate)


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Sorry to keep on about this problem (I posted for help some time ago with no resolution) everyone but it is bugging me.....

For no apparent reason the boot lights failed to illuminate when the tailgate opens......I researched this problem and it would appear to be a bit of a problem including other similar model VAG cars aswell. I took the chance and replaced the boot catch (part number 1Z5827501C) (£31 odd!) but this has not resolved the problem the lights still do not work.

Could any of you experts out there suggest where to find the fault (which I am now presuming to be a bad wiring connection)? The rest of the car is absolutely perfect - absolutely everything is working except these boot lights (and the boot open warning light on the instrument binnacle (this works when the doors are open)). I am not aware of any water leaks which over time may have corroded any wiring connections.

Please help............

Thanks everyone

Tom

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Hi Tom

I have the exact same problem and like you also replaced the boot latch to no avail, if i do ever manage to get it sorted ill drop you a message, if you could do the same id appreciate it!

Good luck!

Daz

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BigD30...Don't worry I will definitely post the solution for everyone to read and will PM you as you have asked.

MikeHolroyd...Yes, thanks for the reply and suggestion and no I know you are not patronising. I have thought of that and I have taken the bulbs out (which is incredibly fiddly for such a small job) put an ohmeter across them and I have resistance so they should be working.

It must be a difficult and sneaky little fault because on this forum there is nearly always someone who knows the answer and with this series of posts no one seems to be able to suggest likely problems.

I will keep watching and if I solve it then I will post for everyone

thanks and if anyone reads this post and even thinks that they may have even a slight idea then please post and I will chase it up

thanks all

Tom

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I'm assuming the tailgate locks/unlocks via central locking - if not it's a completely different problem.

It's the wiring from the switch to the brown connector in the lid or the wiring between the brown connector and the black connector at the left 'C' pillar. The wire is white/blue.

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RWBaldwin

Many thanks for this reply. Yes, absolutely everything works as it should on the whole of the rest of the car. Please would you explain a little further...perhaps you could describe exactly where I need to look to find the origin of this problem. I know the history of the car and the car is as new with definitely no repairs or other work that may damage any wiring, I am assuming therefore that the culprit will be a dry connector somewhere along the wiring loom rather than a break in the wiring (other than a break caused by chafing against a sharp edge) but as the wiring disappears into the loom near the rear wiper motor I don't know where it might reappear. One additional point I could add is that after failing I noticed that one evening they were working again but both lamps didn't seem very bright......I hope this info helps

I await!!

Thanks

Tom

Edited by ThomasP
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The most likely cause is a damaged wire as it passes from the tailgate to the body of the car.

You need to remove the trim from the tailgate and follow the wire to the connector in the lid. Unplug the connector and check the continuity of the white/blue wire to the lock. It's not likely to be this part of the loom but it's best to check. DO NOT PUT IT BACK TOGETHER YET.

Remove the left side trim in the luggage compartment. You will see a set of connectors just behind the 'C' pillar. Unplug the connector and check the continuity of the white/blue wire to the connector in the lid. With the meter still connected, grab hold of the rubber tube that contains the wires as they pass from the tailgate to the body of the car and wiggle them about.

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This prob is a pain in the ......eer ..neck......RW, I did what you suggested and have now removed (as fiddly as it could possibly be) the upper trim, exposing the rear seat belt the tailgate panel and the white upper tailgate trim - I could not find any junctions behind the C Pillar (C Pillar is what the back door shuts on to...?). It is all just continous wiringt loom.....However there would appear to possibly be a junction right at the bottom of the rear sill (ie. right below the rear light assembly) but is so far down I will have to remove further trim panels just to get to it. The junctions boxes in the lid near to the rear windscreen wiper motor seem to be connecting OK I am really at a loss as to know where to look. All the wiring looks to be in good nick with no evidence of any water ingress...........There are three wires that go, via a small connector block to the upper tailgate latch - none of these has any positive voltage on it..........Help!!

I cannot believe I am doing all this work just to make the boot light work again......

Any suggestions v welcome

Thanks all

Tom

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The connectors are not under the 'C' pillar trim, but are behind the rear left luggage compartment trim about a foot back from the 'C' pillar. There are usually three connectors - pink, brown and black and I think those are the ones you can see. Once you get to these, you can do a continuity check to the connector in the lid.

The switches in the tailgate lock switch to ground.

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RW

I think I have found the connectors you mention but it is so very difficult dealing with the trim and fixings and the fear of breaking stuff that I am going to give up. I did waggle the wires about as much as i could but there was no difference.

Many thanks for your help I really do appreciate your advice.

Tom

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  • 2 years later...

Can anyone provide any more help with this its a pain in the boot so to speak I've traced wiring back and all seems fine.

I've got 11.5 volts on the boot lights when it's shut but the bulbs aren't lit CONFUSED.COM When the boot is opened no power it's like opening the boot switches the power off ?

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jaskat

 

If it helps you I eventually gave up trying to actually repair the problem...........I came to the conclusion that it was a failure of the convenience unit. I find the electrical system on the Octavia very painful to deal with. I have no doubt it is all down to safety and EU regulation but I just will not go to a dealer for this type of repair when they just take the money out of your pocket and don't really do the job properly anyway.

 

I had to go through the painful experience of setting up my own wiring both for the boot release and the boot light. This entailed routing a wire from a power source in the front of the car and laying wires etc.......I had to remove every panel to hide the wires. It was a really frustrating exercise as the panels are fitted so tightly that it is difficult to remove/replace without causing slight damage to them.

 

I think that my problem was actually due to leakage of water from the pipe that feeds the rear windscreen washer.......If you remove the trim panel on the rear nearside at the side of the luggage area, with great difficulty I chased this pipe back to a joint that looked to me as though it had been leaking over a long period of time (I think Skoda eventually prevented this problem by fitting clips over the water pipe to prevent leakage, I remember reading somewhere). Unfortunately, just below this water pipe is an electrical connector block that connects loads of wires and I discovered that mine was covered in crud and solvent from the water so I think this caused the fault that perhaps finished off  the convenience unit.

 

I expect other makes of cars have similar electrical systems but is very awkward for the home diyer to do his own repairs.

 

Apologies to all the avid Skoda mechanics who read these posts by the way.

 

I hope this helps you and anyone else with similar probs

 

Good Luck

 

Tom

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  • 1 month later...

Had a similar problem, the connector on the screen washer pipe blew off and flooded the tow bar lighting control box, the high level brake light failed! Thought I was a clever bugger "repairing" it by running a wire from the brake lights straight to the lamp. Of course, I forgot the canbus system and the high level brake light cam on with the side lights! It meant a new control box.

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