Hi, as you can see this is my first post.

I have a Skoda Felicia V reg, with a key that has a groove down the middle of it.

I went to start the car today and the key wouldn't go into the lock.

I tried appyling WD40 to no effect and eventually had a really good peer down the keyhole and could see something metal in there blocking the keyhole. Nothing has fallen off the key and I have no kids so I assume something in the inside of the locking mechanism has come loose and blocked it.

I tried to scoop it out with a screwdriver and the offending piece of metal simply fell further inside the lock.

I still cannot put the key in the lock more than half way.

I have searched the forum but most of the suggestions for removing the ignition barrel start with 'first turn key in ignition'

You might dislike me for saying this but this car is a bit of a scrapper, I don't want to spend any more money on it than necessary.

A: If I can get the bit of metal out can the lock be reused?

B: Is there any really good reason why I should consider paying a locksmith rather than getting a favour from one of the numerous local car thieves?

C: What would you suggest?

To get the barrel off you need to remove the steering lock carrier bracket from the steering column. It's easy enough to get to, just a few philips head screws to remove the lower steering column coweling, then you just need a 14mm socket on a short extension to undo the retaining bolts and the whole column will drop down. there are a few little spacers and washers for the bolts so make a note of which order they are fitted, unplug all the wiring harness plugs from the stalk switches, it's easier if you remove the steering wheel first too which is a 24mm socket and a 5mm Allen key to take off the steering wheel centre from behind.. Now here's the fun bit!!! The steering lock is held on with sheer bolts which you will need to drill out to remove, when they are put in at the factory they have special shape weakened heads which break off when the bolt is wound in to the correct torque.. Once you have the steering lock off you need to drill out another sheer bolt to separate the barrel from the switch block.. When pulling the spade terminals off the ignition switch block make a note of the wiring colours and which terminal they go to, the terminals are numbered but they are quite tricky to see..

It's fairly common for the barrel to break randomly, and it's also a good idea to renew the switch while you are there too. hope this helps.

edit: actually it might be a 12mm socket for the steering column bolts now I come to think of it

Edited 24 April, 201214 yr by TeflonTom

Thanks for your reply.

We have reached the stage where grub screws and shear bolts are exposed. Quite happy with how it has gone so far.

Once I have all this gubbins undone, where would you source replacement parts and how little can I get away with. My Dad once had an old Rover he started with a teaspoon handle because of an issue that led to removal of the steering lock. How much do I need to replace and how much should it cost me?

Cheers

Edited 25 April, 201214 yr by diche

you can better your dad (Dad? ) by using a nail clipper knife thingy.

http://www.jorily.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1079

You can get the ignition switch block from jorily for a tenner by the looks of it

http://www.jorily.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=131_4_30&products_id=450

edit; looks like they have the lock sets available too.. At 90 odd quid... That's a lot cheaper than buying them from skoda at circa £150

I'm pretty certain you can only buy the ignition barrel as part of a complete lock set from skoda now which is a bit of a shame.. You won't be able to start the car with a teaspoon because of the transponder chip in the key.. The immobiliser box behind the instrument cluster has a black or grey circular inuductive pickup coil which is clipped over the end of the ignition barrel, this reads the coding from the key.. Without the transponder the engine will start and run for 2 seconds then cut out..

if you do buy a new lock set the new keys will need to be matched to the immobiliser unit which is a specialist job, or it ay be possible to get a key cutting place to copy the coding off the old key to the new keys..

It's not strictly necessary to use new sheer bolts to reassemble the steering lock, if I recall they are not a standard pitch thread though, I think they are m8x1.0mm but you must check this for yourself, a new set of 3 sheer bolts is about £5 from the skoda dealer..

ok, in theory it would be possible to attach the old key to the immo reader coil, then start the engine using your aforementioned teaspoon but I do not recommend it, it's better to do the job properly.

Ok, well despite the aforementioned issues with the immobiliser, we have fitted a second hand ignition barrel, figuring we would cross that bridge when we came to it. My OH is convinced there is nothing in the key that could activate the immobiliser even though there is an immobiliser coil on the car.

However during the refit process, one of the airbag wires was knocked loose and when we tried to start the car the SRS light was flashing. I assume this is due to a fault code in the cars ecu. What type of ecu would this car have? I am more familiar with another make where the cars have either OBDI or OBDII compatible ecu's, would this hold true for Skoda's as well and if so which type of ecu would a V reg felicia have?

Also the battery has drained itself during the process, we assume that something that shouldn't be earthed was temporarily but I thought I would mention it to be complete.

You can just pull the immo chip (which is in the key) out and put it into the new key, then it'll work OK.

You can just pull the immo chip (which is in the key) out and put it into the new key, then it'll work OK.

That's why the OH believes there is no immobiliser, he has opened the key and there is nothing in there except a spring.

any clues on the ecu type?

To replay the conversation

Husband: There is NO chip in this key

Wife: Let me have a look.

Wife: what about that chip there then? :think:

Husband: I was looking for something bigger than that, with a battery or something.

Chip swapped immobiliser sorted!

No battery needed, they are a passive kind that is excited by the field from the sensor (hence the spring/aerial).

Glad to help.

the air bag ecu is in middle off car at front under radio bolted to the floor just use vag com to wipe codes