Hi there Im new here and a new owner of my 1st ever skoda :-) a 2004 vrs .

Now for the help I need , the temp gauge sometimes goes a bit mad,going up& down.

Ive read this is what i need

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170803688304?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

is this correct ? if so where is it located on the engine & can i change it myself.

Thanks for you help in advance great forum.

Hi and welcome, what you need is a genuine one off skoda or vw. The ebay ones don't last 5 mins and can cause problems.

When you say it goes up and down, does it go down when moving and up when stopped? If so it could be your Thermostat m8

Welcome to the world of Briskoda :-)

Unfortunately im a diesel burner so i cant help,

but a little patience (About 2-3 hrs) and a VRS guru will, no doubt, respond accurately :-)

Hi and welcome, what you need is a genuine one off skoda or vw. The ebay ones don't last 5 mins and can cause problems.

When you say it goes up and down, does it go down when moving and up when stopped? If so it could be your Thermostat m8

Goddam it, the slow load time delayed me post.....

_{warms up lovely sits ' 90c ,then randomly it will drop down to cold.}

_{the heaters still blow hot air when turned to hot.}

_{can drive around then all of a sudden it will move back to 90c.}

_???

Edited 7 May, 201214 yr by bulls20042002

Does sound like the temp sender m8, make sure you get a genuine one. Looking at the engine it is on the right hand side got 3 or 4 pipes going to it

Goddam it, the slow load time delayed me post.....

That's why I use the mobile version on my phone on wifi less than 2 secs to load lol

Thanks Raf.

can I change it myself?

is it just a simple swap over?

Edited 7 May, 201214 yr by bulls20042002

That's why I use the mobile version on my phone on wifi less than 2 secs to load lol

I just need to stop browsing with about 14 different tabs open at the same time!!!

Thanks Raf.

can I change it myself?

is it just a simple swap over?

Electrical connector on the top to remove then the sensor is held in place with a 'u' shaped plastic clip. If you buy a new one of these clips you won't break the old one (a few pence), if you don't buy one you WILL break it ;-)

Make sure the system is cold before you start and depresurised (by loosening the header tank cap). Pull the clip out and then with new sensor in hand, remove old sensor and quickly replace with new one. Should only lose a cupful of coolant this way. Insert new or reused clip, reconnect, top up if needed and try :-)

(and don't forget to do up the header tank cap if you left it loose :think: ).

Cheers for all your help.

just one last thing is this the part I need?

correct part nuimber?

http://www.ebay.co.u...984.m1423.l2649

It's the one that you linked in your first post (Green one), not the one you've just linked above, which is for a Ford Galaxy!

I just bought one of these too, it's a 2 min job to change. I noticed that the previous owner of my car had a cable tie going through the wires into the sensor and underneath the pipe ... ie. to 'secure' the plug in more. Never heard of anyone else doing this, or why it might be necessary but I have to admit, I fitted the new one and renewed the cable tie! ...........

The 'old' one I took out was also a green one (the later units) and when I checked my car's history I found a print off of an eBay receipt for the sensor for 2010 ........ so beware, as others have said, these cheap copies from eBay will not last long ......... IIRC the genuine part from Skoda is £29.

Cheers.

Edited 8 May, 201214 yr by Longyear

Cheers.

will the faulty one damage my car if left in ?

eg over heat damage the head gasket ?

If you leave it in and it registers as obviously cold it'll affect your fuelling which will reduce economy and make it run rich.

And over-fuelling brings with it it's own set of faults to go along with it... So sooner you get it sorted the better.

guys sorry to be a proper div but how dose the Electrical connector on the top come off??

just pull or is the a clip holding it?

sorry again for being a dumb ass.

I've got a feeling that one has a wire clip on it which you can release with a flat bladed screwdriver then the plug will just slide off. Replace the wire back on the plug before you slide it back on again and it will just click into place.

When I changed mine (diesel), I found it easier to remove the old CTS while still attached to the loom, and insert the new CTS (and o-ring) and secure. Then I had a bit more space and get the plug off.

It is worth having a look at the clip/plug assembly on something larger so you can figure out how they work - the MAF is a good example. In my experienve you need to push the clip in (you will figure out the best angle when you look at the MAF one), while pushing the plug towards the CTS and then pull it backwards. It might sound odd, put pushing it on more seems to help the latch unclip a bit easier.