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Air filter box, MPI

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Good stuff :D

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  • Here's the prototype, so to speak. 76mm from the front to the filter box. I was actually surprised, you can feel the difference when driving.

  • I'd agree except my Varadero used to suffer carb icing in the UK during summer with high humidity, the Honda dealer tried to fob me off till I offered to take it to VOSA at which point Honda UK sudden

  • Chris Coates
    Chris Coates

    That's what I originally used - But then I realised that under heat after a while the alu ducting becomes brittle, and obviously alu next to the coolant pipes absorbs heat. Instead, I eventually chan

The warm air pipe just comes from a metal cover over the exhaust manifold at the back of the engine. If you can get to it just remove it from there. No need to block off etc.

The warm air pipe just comes from a metal cover over the exhaust manifold at the back of the engine. If you can get to it just remove it from there. No need to block off etc.

yeh can get to it quite easily, just didn't know if leaving it would cause problems!

thanks mate

I've been having a think about this and after a quick rummage in the spares box I've come up with an alternative install. My plan is to heat a 70mm pipe joiner with a central ridge using a blow torch to melt through the lower section of the air box to create a near perfect interference fit, i'll then let it cool and insert the joiner from the inside of the box until the ridge buts up against the inner wall of the air box, apply sikaflex on the inner face to bond the alloy ridge against the inner face of the box and seal it, once that goes off i'll be connecting a 70mm 90 degree elbow sandwiching the air box between the ridge on one side and the silicon tube on the other, next would be a standard brazed pipe joiner and a straight 70mm pipe to the normal inlet.

I know that probably wasn't the best description but can anyone see anything I'm missing with this method? I appreciate it's 30% smaller than the 100mm B&Q option but it's significantly larger than the oe solution. Besides if I go that route I'd probably end up laser cutting the hole and I'm not sure the box will fit in the laser bed.

Any help would be appreciated :)

Well personally...

I went with a dremel to cut the box.

Though I get what you mean - you're going to heat a metal piece up to then push into the airbox to melt your entry hole, and fix it in place with sikaflex once it's all cooled down.

The 90 degree elbow would also work fine - and 70mm is obviously an improvement on stock - so you'll still see gains.

Melting the airbox should look much better visually as well as you'l have no obvious cuts or dremel marks etc :thumbup:

I had a few problems trying to get the 100mm ducting to fit, so 70mm probably better option anyway!

  • 1 year later...

New here and noticed this post - i will have to give this a go but i noticed on my intake pipe there is another one coming off it underneath - what do i do with that?

 

DSC_0210.jpg

 

cheers

Edited by darrencourt

  • Author

New here and noticed this post - i will have to give this a go but i noticed on my intake pipe there is another one coming off it underneath - what do i do with that?

 

DSC_0210.jpg

 

cheers

I bypassed that one completely. I dont recall what it does but mine's been running fine without it for like 8000 kilometers.

I bypassed that one completely. I dont recall what it does but mine's been running fine without it for like 8000 kilometers.

So you just take that pipe off

Edited by darrencourt

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