Just hooked up to a laptop good news no fault code, but we noticed that with the accelerator fully depressed, only getting 88% throttle open... Is this "normal"?

have you had the battery disconnected for any period of time or removed the throttle body

mine reads 0-100%

have you had the battery disconnected for any period of time or removed the throttle body

Possibly, and only whilst the rocker cover and PCV valve replaced, but this would have only been for a short period, hour and half max.

How do I "reset" it?

its done with a copy of VCDS

http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/throttlebody.html

its done with a copy of VCDS

http://www.ross-tech...rottlebody.html

One potentially for Ben next Saturday then when I'm up there. It's possible the original garage disconnected the battery at the time when I noticed the drop in performance, and thinking about it, the pedal modulation has felt different since that time too. Would this throw up the error code unable to achieve the target boost pressure though....

Try the throttle recalibration................press throttle to the floor, switch on ignition for about 30 seconds then switch off ignition, release throttle.

Try the throttle recalibration................press throttle to the floor, switch on ignition for about 30 seconds then switch off ignition, release throttle.

OK thanks, will this out.

OK, that seems to have made in improvement using the seat of the pants mode, too late to connect a laptop up and get someone to monitor it. Definitely feels sharper again, like it did after the remap. I am prepared to accept that it's all placebo of course, but what the hell if it feels like an improvement.

Now I have another problem, on main beam, the N/S beam is aimed about 4ft in front of the car, and the O/S beam into the sky.... :wonder:

Either take it to a mot test station, they will have the equipment to adjust properly or do it yourself, park and a flat level ground in front of a nice flat wall, garage door is usually a good place. There are two Allen key adjustment screw on the headlamps, open the bonnet and kneel down in front of the middle of your car and look to the inner most edge of each lamp, one screw does up and don, the other does left and right separately.

It is a little too easy to mess it up but if your confident not to dazzle oncoming drives and if your car isn't fitted with Xenons then give it a try. Just make sure both beams are in line, try not to move the left and right adjustment screw.

Most puzzling is how they have become so misaligned.... I've also got a bulb failure warning lap on now.

Are you sure you arnt driving an Estelle lol jokes! ;-)

It's probably more a reflection of the dealer that fiddled with it!

This is puzzling now. Checked for fault codes again this evening, prompted by another member wth another observation of "partial" full throttle opening. No codes detected, but again when the throtle is pressed fully down I get an "Absolute Throttle Position" of 88.2%

The other readings are:

Relative Throttle Position 77.3%

Absolute Throttle Position B 88.6%

Absolute Throttle Position C N/A

Absolute Throttle Position D 81.6%

Absolute Throttle Position E 81.2%

Absolute Throttle Position F N/A

Comm Throttle Ac****or Ctrl 99.6%

When I did the simple reset at the time I posted above it seemed to cure the feeling that the car was lacking a little zing. It's still not feeling as quick as I recall it being for the week or so after it was done. Can anyone advise what these numbers mean, obviously whether or not there is somehting not quite right. FWIW, it doesn't feel like 280lb/ft+ of torque, at least not above 4.5K anyway, it actually feels like a TDi - pulls strongly to 4.5k - 5k then just loses puff instead of zinging round to the red line. I'd drive up to Mansfield tomorrow but I can't afford to custom map it yet!

Just to let people know it was I who had this problem.

I was seeing 15-81%.

Another member on the Seat Cupra forums said he was seeing 12%-88%. I said I can maybe understand the 12% either for keeping idle, or for using the anti-stall when the car is moving.

I'll give the pedal thing a go and see what it does for me. I'll post all of my readings tomorrow at some point.

P.S It was this thread I was searching for all along!

I am having exactly the same problem as this. Even after doing the calibration it has not solved it. Any of you guys managed to find out what the problem was.

Sorry for reviving this thread!!

In my case it was a faulty turbo so wasn't achieving full boost pressure at higher engine speeds. I cured it by changing cars!

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Hmmm not what I was expecting. The thing is my calibration works for a few days and then reverts back to 88‰ throttle!

Sorry to ask another question but did you get any error codes in vcds at all?

Yes, related to the faulty turbo.

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