Kaoli

I don't know how helpful it is to document the steps needed to remove the trim - I didn't find it easy to follow the manual. As a taster - the first step is to remove the horizontal bar at the side of the luggage compartment that has the hooks on it. The hooks can be snapped off (probably before removing the bar, just by manipulating to the right angle) The bar is held on by two bolts which are hidden behind a strip of plastic on the face of the bar. To remove that strip of plastic - it is clipped into the bar at each end but it also clips in about 1/3 the way down which can be accessed through small rectangular apertures at bottom and at top. There may be a special tool, a bit like a caliper, that presses in each of these holes at the same time but I managed to get it off by levering with screwdrivers in the holes.

Well - I concluded that it hadn't come from anywhere... maybe it was just debris lodged in the side of trim somewhere. The trim is now re-fitted and everything is working. I didn't dare lever out that top trim panel to get at the connector as that probably would mean breaking the tabs it has under the trim section below it... so I sort of followed the manual and removed luggage bar, lock cover(tailgate sill), Varioflex seats and the fibre board floor covering under them, and boot floor, lower C-panel trim, then the upper side trim. FInally that let me lever out the trim panel hiding the connector - I didn't remove it from the roof as wasn't sure how easy that would be to push back in.

Sorry - red and black wires were thicker than others in Skoda part (not red and brown)

I had the same problem. Broken green wire on o/s tailgate strut. After foolishly trusting AI I bought a pair of Azteca struts as they looked to be almost identical and I found them cheaper than Skoda parts (I concluded Tiguan parts are not the same). The next problem is it is decades since I did much to a car (reversed the polarity of my Morris Minor to fit a radio, took a Honda 125S engine apart etc.) But spent 18 years abroad, mostly without a car. So all this trim removal is new to me and it didn't help that the manuals floating around online seem to be for a car with different trim to my 2018 (2017?) Karoq Edition. Anyway - finally managed to complete the fitting today and the Azteca strut seems to work fine with the Skoda one on the n/s. When comparing the parts, the red and brown (power?) wires are thicker on the Skoda original... on Azteca part all wires look similar thickness). The wires pass through the rubber grommet at the top of the "Accordion" in the middle of the grommet on the Skoda, but offset from center on the Azteca part. None of that seems consequential. I haven't refitted the trim yet - if there is demand for it I could provide some photos showing where the clips and rivets etc. are. Meanwhile - after pulling out the luggage compartment side trip (top part) I found a small (1.6cm long) spring on the boot luggage compartment floor. No idea where that came from. My only thought is it might be connected to the courtesy light in that panel but there doesn't seem to be any place or need for it there. Any ideas? Or maybe it is not related to the car at all.

> Just one thing... saved Destinations seem to have gone. At the time I tried exiting and locking the car and then re-opening it but the Destinations remained missing. However, the next day when I got to the car I was relieved to find they had returned.

MIB2 High update worked for me - Skoda Karoq 2018 Just one thing... saved Destinations seem to have gone. There is one 'Flagged Destination', the Home is still there, and recent destinations. If I go to a recent destination and try and 'Store' it it doesn't seem to get saved under 'Destinations'. Am I doing something stupid or following to obey some needed step?

The test I did was simply to establish that coasting only happens in "E" mode, and as I already had observed, the car reverts to "D" after parking even though the Mode button and display suggested otherwise. Thinking about it - on a steeper downhill, engine braking might be more efficient than coasting as I presume no fuel needs to be injected when engine braking while to keep the engine idling during coasting there must be fuel being injected. I guess one leaves that to the software program of the car - it might help to be using ACC as that may engage engine braking as speed builds up on a downhill stretch - rather than waiting for the driver to hit the brake pedal. Another thought - which mode do they use when establishing official MPG figures? I guess ECO. Could it be that it is primarily designed to get the best mpg under the specific conditions of the test? Overall I am getting about 35mpg with mix of long distance and local driving. Maybe it will improve not that I may start selecting ECO before each trip.

Finished testing - it is now clear. Thanks all for your help. Does not coast in (normal) Drive. Only when gearbox is in E(co) mode. Gearbox reverts to normal D(rive) mode after parking despite Mode button remaining orange, "ECO" remaining selected when you do press the Mode button, and the appearance of the "ECO" symbol on the display panel from time to time (when 2-cylinder mode is in use). So for best economy I need to use the Mode button to reselect "ECO" mode every time I set off.

I'll have to do some more tests. I did (very briefly), see a solitary "E" in my test the other day but I think engine revs were quite high and it was (mostly) doing engine breaking despite it being a fairly steep descent. I don't really understand why the car would need to coast much. When you are rolling downhill under gravity, the 2-cylinder ACT switches off - presumably at that point no fuel is being injected to any cylinder... so you mostly are going to want engine breaking to avoid exceeding the speed limit. If you coasted then you are going to end up wearing the brakes and emitting brake particle pollution that would be avoided by braking with the engine. So perhaps coasting only applies to the transition, or gentle down slopes, when the car is going fairly slowly and the slope is not steep enough to overcome the energy loss of turning the engine and gearbox. I guess that must be the case and that may help me confirm when it is coasting. [The car is a 2018 model.. J code Summer 2017 to Summer 2018, first registered Jun-2018, DADA engine, 7-speed DSG]

That is what I thought coasting was (in the days of manual gearboxes). Don't think my car does it at all even in ECO mode. I do notice that the 2-cylinder mode switches off on downhill sections but I think the engine is doing engine braking but presumably not injecting any fuel. Tested that yesterday to make sure that is the case even when ACC is disabled. Will have to try and repeat after making sure that the car is in ECO mode. The reason I think ECO mode survives an ignition restart is that the Mode button remains illuminated, and when I press the Mode button, the panel comes up with ECO as the 'selected' mode. It is just the letter next to the selected gear on the dash panel which reverts from 'E' to 'D'. [If it is different for someone else maybe the car is recognizing them by their mobile phone and setting defaults differently - I didn't set that up]

Not sure what you mean by 'coast'... the car does drop to only firing two cylinders when not under load (ACT). So I guess that indicates it remains in Eco mode despite what the dash indicates.

Something I noticed - if I select the ECO mode (2018 Karoq Edition 1.5TSI), the display of the currently selected gear appears on the dash panel with an "E" in front of it. e.g. E1, E2, E3 etc. If I park the car and return to it, this will now revert to displaying the gears as D1, D2, D3 etc. However, I think I am still in ECO mode. So I am wondering if this is just a programming error on the dash panel or whether the gearbox may not be operating in ECO mode without reselecting it each time I drive.

I had my 2018 Edition windscreen replaced by Autoglass on the insurance. Since then, I noticed that the Columbus system often shows the map in 'night mode' during the day. I presume there is a sunlight sensor that is not working properly or out of calibration. I also presume that the headlights are coming on in the daytime (with switch set to usual Auto position), so there may also be an impact on economy/battery charge. The sensors behind the interior mirror look ok as far as I can see - though I do not know which one is which - or even if there is a light sensor there at all. Maybe it is the camera which does that? (The rain sensor does seem to be working ok and I understand the camera was recalibrated - the lane assist would probably not work if it had not been).

FWIW I downloaded the VW lighthouse one above and compared the files to the Skoda update. Although there were some differences in times and dates of the files, when I did a binary compare they seemed identical except for 17 files that were missing from the Skoda download because they had not been successfully extracted from the archive. (I haven't yet taken the SD card to the car - it is cold!)

Same issue here. Mostly it is .psf files that won't extract. I think none of them had dates later than March 2023 so I was thinking maybe I could just stick with the files of the same name from the last release but it turns out that some of them have been modified since then. e.g. June release of Ukraine_Map3D_TIN.psf was dated 10-Sep-2022 and the new (corrupt) one is dated 03-Mar-2023. (No idea why maps of Ukraine should have changed) 🙂