My vRS didnt make it back from the seaside....

[studmuffin]

Reading through this it sounds like your car is going into limp mode, the AA don't tend to pick up the fault as when you switch the ignition off & on again it resets itself.

Chances are the limp mode is being caused by the vanes in the turbo being coked up & sticking, the actuator won't be able to open them up so the clicking you're hearing behind the dash is actually the N75 valve (solenoid) in the engine bay trying to operate the vacuum for the actuator.

Lean over the back of the engine when it's cold and have a look at the turbo, you'll see a vacuum line going to something attached to the turbo, and a metal rod going from this to the turbo. This is the actuator rod. Reach down & move the actuator rod with your hand, it should move smoothly & reasonably easily, if not this confirms the vanes are sticking & the turbo needs cleaning (google 'innotec', it seems to work). If the actuator moves smoothly & freely trace the vacuum line back to the N75 valve (located at the back of the engine bay) and pull off the vacuum hose at the N75, suck on the vacuum line & you should see the actuator rod move, if it doesn't & you've managed to move the rod with your hand then this means there is either a hole in the vacuum line or the actuator is damaged internally.

That all seems to make sense, especially as there no dash warning lights...

It does seem to explain some of the symptoms which I will try my best to describe...

Its more likely to happen when accelerating hard, if you take it easy its less likely to happen.

When it does happen, if you keep the throttle in the exact position, it will lose power and kangaroo for as long as its in the same position, when you come off the gas its ok until it happens again...

All of this doesn't seem to happen until the engine is at normal operating temp.

The car seems ok when doing town driving, its more likely to happen in the 40ish to 60ish mph speeds but also, like I say when accelerating normally.

When it expired on sun it was on a very steep hill, had 3 or 4 attemps when it stalled but started 1st time each time I restarted it. After about 10th mins of waiting I did manage to drive about half a mile up the hill very gently. It was quite happy when I was driving it around Scarborough in the city centre, the real problems were on the A road into Scarborough.

It had a new turbo under warranty nearly 2 years ago I had only had the car a couple of weeks when it started playing the 'police siren tune !

I do wonder if I'm driving it to gently....I am very strict on changing gear before 2k and am now wondering if turbo has not been 'kicking in' in enough and it might be clogging or sticking because I've been driving it like a granny ! I do drive it at 80ish but I don't think the turbo is working hard at that speed is it ???

When you say its trying to go into limp mode, I've only had this once about 18 months ago and that seemed very gentle as I was doing about 75 and when I try to accelerate, there was no power until I was doing about 50ish, that was something to do with boost and dpf sensor which was replaced and all was ok.

This feels like somebody is switching the ignition switch on and off when it starts happening !

Edited 10 June, 2012 by studmuffin

[cheezemonkhai]

I don't know how much more direct I can be.

A PD 170 does not have a lambda sensor, so I somehow doubt that it could have been changed!

Also not sure what they gave you either.

What could have been changed is an Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor (G235), which is found on DPF equipped cars.

You need to confirm if it's that they replaced, if they've put a lambda in place of that by mistake or what they have done.

[studmuffin]

I don't know how much more direct I can be.

A PD 170 does not have a lambda sensor, so I somehow doubt that it could have been changed!

Also not sure what they gave you either.

What could have been changed is an Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor (G235), which is found on DPF equipped cars.

You need to confirm if it's that they replaced, if they've put a lambda in place of that by mistake or what they have done.

Ok....

Was told lambda sensor.....could be known as oxygen sensor or exhaust sensor.....I dunno know....

But wotever was changed there are 2 of them, 1 was changed......

Is it this part trays giving problems ???

[cheezemonkhai]

I'd check to see what was replaced though, because the sensor on the derv is not the same as a lambda/oxygen sensor.

There are many sensor that can cuse issues, the N75, that DPF sensor andy many more.

Have you had the car scanned with VCDS or a dealer tool since the fault came back?

[studmuffin]

I'd check to see what was replaced though, because the sensor on the derv is not the same as a lambda/oxygen sensor.

There are many sensor that can cuse issues, the N75, that DPF sensor andy many more.

Have you had the car scanned with VCDS or a dealer tool since the fault came back?

When the garage changed the fuel filter relay, no fault codes for anything came up on vcds ! If dpf or its sensor were at fault, would I have a light on dashboard ?

I've just had a look at my readout from skoda from 7 weeks ago and it reads...

Suspect internal fault with ignition switch. £171.88

G39 bank 1 sensor 1 exhaust temp sensor £178.86

Ignition switch fault wasn't done and no fault codes came up last week.... and what sensor is g39 ?

Edited 10 June, 2012 by studmuffin

[studmuffin]

Latest info...

No faults on vcds..

No dashboard lights when losing power..

Turbo ok..

Fuel pump ok..

????.....

[max69vk]

Has the wastegate been checked? Not the turbo. The actual wastegate itself needs to be checked for smooth movement, movement at the correct vacuum, & no leaks.

[studmuffin]

Well I'm on my holidays tomorrow and my vrs is still off the road, still no clues as to what the problem is.....

So its five of us in a fiat punto to the isle of wight, should be fun...

[rwbaldwin]

A faulty fuel pump or its relay should have logged a fault.

R1 (ECU power relay) or R4 (engine component supply relay) in the eBox are likely candidates. You often get no fault or random sensor faults logged and it would give you your symptoms. Replaced quite a few of them.

[studmuffin]

A faulty fuel pump or its relay should have logged a fault.

R1 (ECU power relay) or R4 (engine component supply relay) in the eBox are likely candidates. You often get no fault or random sensor faults logged and it would give you your symptoms. Replaced quite a few of them.

yeah will try that thanks,

one thing we have found is...that it only loses power when its at normal operating temputure, when its first started and cold its fine...

[Raf_]

Faulty temp sender? They are a weak point on the mk1s just a guess

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