hello,

do the rubber bushes above the bearing go onto the strut under the shock absorber nut

eg: topmost nut -> turret cup -> damper nut -> bush -> bearing -> strut

or just sit on top after that assembly is tightened down?

eg: top most nut -> turret cup -> bush -> nut -> bearing -> strut

i have a knock going over bumpy (all suffolk) roads and i think i've either not tightened this nut up enough when i replaced the struts a month or so back or the bush isn't sat right allowing some movement? i've replaced the ARB links but it wasn't them.

is tightening with an air-wrench the only way to properly do this?

thanks,

toby

Tighten it with an impact gun and you'll just spin the shock. You need a ring spanner, and an allen key, and maybe some extra leverage...

Thats how i did it the first time but with the bush in place the ring spanner would have to be really deep so i used a spark plug wrench. if the bush doesn't have to be attached whilst tightening then its no problem though and i can redo it with the bush put on afterwards?

put something on to stop the rust when your done--- then the next guy won't need an impact gun to get it off

thats an idea

however, i'm still not sure whether to place the bush on top of the strut before or after tightening it up???

a video of someone doing this to a jetta shows him impact gunning the whole assembly together but i'm not sure if the bush can just sit on there?

thanks,

toby

thats an idea

however, i'm still not sure whether to place the bush on top of the strut before or after tightening it up???

a video of someone doing this to a jetta shows him impact gunning the whole assembly together but i'm not sure if the bush can just sit on there?

thanks,

toby

shame no one has actually answered your key question......

I can confirm this is the order

top most nut -> turret cup -> nut -> bush -> bearing -> strut

Put that bush on before the internal nut buddy. That nut is chamfered to sit over bush and hold it in place over bearing.The whole strut needs to be tightened up before installing on car.

Then place under car, place top hat on and then outer top nut and tighten that up.

Typically i use a open type socket and wrench or a well curved ring spanner that you can also hold strut shock will a torx bit or alley key(depends on if you have std strut or not)

ah, thats the one - thanks for confirming that bowders.

taken it all to pieces but nothing seems amiss. possibly the bearing not sat perfectly? the wishbone bush as in the link/picture below looks fine so i'm not really sure whats causing a knocking sound over rougher roads. inner tie road link i'm told is slightly worn?

http://i1270.photobucket.com/albums/jj616/tdaviesphotobucket/armbu.jpg

cheers,

toby

ah, thats the one - thanks for confirming that bowders.

taken it all to pieces but nothing seems amiss. possibly the bearing not sat perfectly? the wishbone bush as in the link/picture below looks fine so i'm not really sure whats causing a knocking sound over rougher roads. inner tie road link i'm told is slightly worn?

http://i1270.photobu...ucket/armbu.jpg

cheers,

toby

I typical culprit for knocks is the antiroll bar drop links buddy, these are joined from antiroll bar to suspension strut. They cause quite a knock when they are worn as the clunck is felt from ARB through suspension. One way of checking these is place your arm through wheel or around inner side and hold the bar whilst someone else rocks car up and down, you will instantly feel play if worn.

Also if those strut bush are old they get compressed and allow movement and knocking of strut up and down. Not easy to feel that as weight of car on suspension can hide that , it is typically when car wheel drops down a rut and the excess travel/play in bush can be felt as the suspension will drop slightly with the play

I replaced the drop links both sides after some reading around last weekend but hasn't sorted the issue. its all reassembled now and i'll see what its like driving to work tomorrow.

the whole setup has been replaced both sides over the last 2 months - the only bit i wasn't entirely happy whilst doing this was the rear wishbone bush as the bolt doesn't seem to want to just slide in but i can't move the arm about with it jacked up to normal level. the bolt had to be very gently tapped into place then tightened on the nut. i figured the bush and mount would align once the weight was on it? would this have benefitted from doing with the strut completely off the car? the Cliff1978 wishbone guide seems to suggest it doesn't. i know its for a mk4 golf too...

anyway thanks for the help,

cheers

toby

re: the knocking i mentioned above - if i grab the drivers side (problem side) wheel with the car on the ground at 9-3 and shake i can get something to knock. not a problem doing this on the other side? given the garage i took this too to have its wheels aligned after i changed everything mentioned the inner tie rod is slightly worn would this be a fair candidate for the knock i'm experiancing over rough ground? as above my entire front suspension has been replaced in the last few months?

i'm fairly sure when i tried this with the car off the ground at 12-6 there wasn't any noise/movement. would i be right in thinking this is more likely tie rod than wishbone given side to side is more the territory of steering whereas up and down is more suspension?

as before all advice appreciated,

cheers

toby

Tie rod sounds more likely. And if it's an aftermarket one, fairly likely. The Febi ones are pretty ****e in comparison to the OEM ones, on most cars I've tried. In fact, on a mate's Galaxy the Febi ones failed two years running, until he went back the the more expensive OEM ones, and they lasted for another 3 years with no problems. Probably still fine now after he sold it. This goes for drop links too, in my experience.

ok, its in for its MOT and having this changed on friday - doesn't look too difficult but may as well have it done at the same time then can be aligned in one sitting but i'll ask that they use OEM ones. incidentally - is there mileage in having both ends replaced given the parts aren't too expensive and its getting aligned anyway?

thanks,

toby

I would. T'other can't be that far behind it.

It's a piece of p!$$ job too. If changing like for like, you can usually just count the amount of turns without altering alignment (making sure to hold the rod still). It's when changing between brands you have to worry about alignment since they're usually not quite the same length. Certainly the difference between Febi and VW ones is pretty huge, and throws the alignment right out.

It's a good idea to check alignment anyway though. Tyres are expensive, after all.