Still trying to find an Octavia.

I'm going to see a 2005 (05) 1.9Tdi Elegance tomorrow, manual, 78k, one previous owner, belt and water pump replaced. I will check service history and MOT history for consistency.

Not being experienced with these cars, what should I look out for? Any week points that fail at this mileage?

Any advice greatly received.

Excessive smoke from the back end, turbo noise, DMF chatter, de laminating front windscreen and general suspension condition.

Edited 16 July, 201213 yr by cheezemonkhai

The same stuff that youd look out for on a 20k or 200k mileage car. All depends on how well its been looked after.

But having said that there are obvious service intervals, I think im right in saying everything should of been done by the 78k mark.

Being the 1.9's these engines are pretty simple but here a list;

On turning the key, keep an eye on the dash lights. If the ESP/ABS lights go out, flash up and go out again then that means theres a fault some where.

On starting the engine, take note of how it starts, in this climate it shouldt struggle at all so if it feels lumpy then start asking questions

Once engine is running (make sure its from cold!) Duel mass flywheel rattles, pretty easy to tell these if you have never heard them, you can also feel the unbalanced rocking motion but to be sure, put clutch down, all should be smooth and if it is knackered when you bring the clutch up it will rattle again.

Smoke; it is acceptable for it to smoke slightly, these dont have DPF's but if plumes of blue/white smoke pass the car then its obviously not running right.

Test drive; Ive never driven one of these (ive only had the 1.9tdi 150) but it should pull with minimal smoke from the back. Listen out for any loud rushing air sounds, with it being the less BHP engine then the risk of boost hose failure if limited but still possible.

Thats pretty much all i can think off common problem wise with the engine, something else will most likely come to me sooner or later, these 1.9tdi's can be hit or miss when it comes to reliability.

Obviously scrutinise the service history and past MOT's, more the better then just the common sense stuff!

Nice spec car that with good mileage.

Things to check other than history etc would be:

Clutch judder/noise especially when cold.

Turbo noise which sounds like a siren and excessive smoke.

Damp carpets and if there is any water or mouldy smell in spare wheel well.

There's quite a few threads on this but these spring to mind first.

Good luck with the car

1.9tdi is a bulletproof engine that doesn't give many problems.

Once it's warmed up, take it onto the motorway and accelerate HARD through the gears, redlining it if necessary, and get it up to motorway speed in fourth.

If there is a problem with the turbo (under or over boost) the car will go in to "Limp Home Mode" where the car feels like you have lost power. The car will maintain speed but won't accelerate. Once you come off the motorway the car will feel totaly under powered.

Turbos on these cars can soot up the variable nozels and then cause overboost to the engine. Leaks in the air supply from the turbo will cause undersboost.

A new turbo would be dear - avoid if the owner wants you to baby the car in a test drive. An overboosting turbo will make overtaking very interesting and won't be apparent in a quick test drive around the block.

Check also for water leaks in the footwells and into the boot. Otherwise these cars are very solid and reliable.

Good luck with yours

HTH

Thanks for all your replies, much appreciated. To summarise:

Turbo: Check for turbo noise, smoke out of back, over/under boost when driven hard, forcing limp mode. Sounds of air leaks. Turbo whistle.

Clutch: DMF when faulty rattles, dipping clutch stops it, returns when released. Also judder when engaging.

ESP/ABS System:? Observe dash warning lights when turning key. Should extinguish but fault indicated in momentarily illuminate.

Water Leaks: Check footwells and spare wheel well. Damp smells.

Windscreen: Check for de lamination

Suspension: Check condition, noise over bumps, drop links and track rod ends (but has recent MOT)

Thanks to all who replied. What mileage can one expect from a clutch in these cars?

I know of one that's 150K + still on original clutch. All depends how it's been treated previously.

My clutch went at 115K and the turbo and AC compressor at about the same time. Be prepared for expensive parts to fail in the next year or two if they havent done already.

Do you know anyone with VCDS who can go with you and scan for fault codes - it will tell you a lot about the car.

Thanks for the two previous. I get the impression clutches do last much longer these days, however hydraulics give problems and the DMF idea seems to be half baked.

It sounds like the turbo is a weak item on these cars, also the DMF (like Fords).

The Rover 75 I have at the moment - they have their fair share of problems, but the turbos never give problems and clutches seem to last to about 150k and the DMF rarely needs changing - its the master and slave cylinders that are a headache.

I do know someone with a VCDS, but he is a mechanic and would charge me quite a bit for his time. Still I may ask him because he can check the ECU stored mileage too. If there is someone around Chesterfield/ Sheffield who would give me a hand with a VCDS, my mobile is 07914778370.

Check the A/C blows ice cold. The compressor has been known to fail early on the Octavia.

I know you won't be expecting a 7 year old / 80,000 mile car to be mint but try and ensure (if possible) that the owner can keep the car dry before you arrive as water can hide a whole host of paint blemishes, dents and scrapes.

Despite spending a long time checking over my last two used car purchases it wasn't until I got it home and polished them did I realise both had received fresh paint at some point in their past. After missing it on the first car I was extra vigilant on the second (my Octavia) and knew what to look for and still missed it! (the only clue was the missing clear plastic stone protector on the N/S rear wheelarch).

Take a friend, two pairs of eyes are better than one...

If you are anywhere near Barlborough, see this thread

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/208262-chesterfield-area-j30-m1/

Ian may be able to help you out - no doubt he will want some kind of recompense but I can't recommend him enough (and he is my cousin).

He doesn't have VCDS but has VAG code readers so may be able to spot something. Not sure if he can read the ECU mileage.

Shame I am not over in Chesterfield in the near future as I will have VCDS and could do it for you.

Check the remote central locking works and locks/unlocks all doors/boot. Ask about oil usage. Always ask about modifications.

check the sills for rust and bubbling just above the thick stone chip paint. The protective paint doesn't go high enough on pre-FL cars.

I don't think you can rule out any car with a bit of chipping there I think they are all suffering from it, just watch for anything excessive.

Mud flaps doesn't prevent it apparently.

Check inner edges of rear wheels for excessive wear, that might just be a VRS issue.

+ what everyone else said.

An mot center should charge 35 for cash for vag-com.Condition is everything, I went to look with someone on here, pictures were great, the car was not!. I do not know if it was mentioned in the above but a water pump fitted at the same time as the belt. Gas struts on the tailgate if are reluctant to lift might be a sign of a clocked car, but if you scan you are ok. When you have found one and do want parts, put code BRISK25 when you are online at Eurocarparts ( they are a Briskoda sponsor) for 25% off parts

A few other things to add for the bodywork checks:

1) The doors have a seal running around them, stopping debris getting to the inner sills.

This rubs away the paint over time (looks like a deep scratch) Areas prone for it are the shut lines on the rear doors (body, not door itself).

Also check along the edge of the inner sills on the front doors for the same thing. - On an 05 they is potential for rust due to this.

2) Check along the side edges of the roof (along the lip) paint known for cracking here.

3) Also check the lip/step along the tailgate (runs side to side just below the badges). Known for rusting at either end.

I know, I've got an 05 one !

Clutch, DMF and turbo have done me to 150K so far.... how much longer, who knows !

Edited 17 July, 201213 yr by swil00

Hi thanks everyone for a fantastic response to my query.

I have decided to buy the one I saw today - I got car buying fatigue!

Its basically a sound car and checks out OK mileage wise, although I will have it Vag-commed when I get it home, for peace of mind. The present (2nd) owner has owned it for four years and has only averaged 6k miles per year. The first owner did 50k in three years.

The only major issue I found with it - there is a bit of corrosion on the edge of one rear wheel arch. I negotiated a £250 reduction for this and will get it attended to in a body shop. I may try a claim under the 12 year perforation warranty; its worth a try. Its probably the result of a previous scrape that was repaired.

Also I did notice a bit of milkyness along the lower edge of the windscreen, but only about 2 -3 mm. Any advice on this?

Being the Elegance, its very well equipped, with cruise control etc. Oh well I will find out in the next few weeks what I have bought, but I am looking forward to the economy and pleased with its band D taxation class. The 105 bhp I would describe as adequate. I have driven the 2 litre 130 bhp and that was more than adequate (for me). I may consider a remap later or one of the tuning boxes.

So look forward to meeting people at the Midlands meet at the end of the month.

Thanks once again for your help and support.

Phil Robinson

Glad you got a car sorted, the milkiness on the windscreen they all do that over time, but you knew that in an earlier post , they only go so far, mine has a new screen on now due to a stone chip, hope you get the rusting arch sorted successfully Just to update your sig now

Good. Glad you got it. Hope all is well after. Enjoy

There is a really good bodyshop on Storforth Lane Trading Estate in Hasland, Chesterfield. It is who my cousin Ian (who I reccomended earlier) sends all his customers to for bodywork.

If you are thinking of a remap, go and see Ben at Shark Performance in Mansfield. You may be tempted by Custom Code as they are in Chesterfield, but the journey to Ben will be well worth it!

And if you need a service give Ian a ring!

Hope you enjoy your new motor.