My farthers ford transit with around 130k miles on it looked like that!

did he drive it much farther

:moon:

:moon:

Nice haha

I don't understand how this happens? I'm running an egr and my intake tract looks like your other picture above, 92000 miles later

I'm a little bit confused about this as well. Pulled apart mine last weekend after running with the EGM light on for over 2 months (BNM 1.4) and expected a similiar caked up valve. All I had was a slight film. Now I might give mine a good bootful every month or so when I feel the urge, but most of the time I wouldn't be working her much as I'm always trying to get the best mpg I can which I would have thought wouldn't have helped in keeping things clear?

As an aside - turned out my light was caused , as suspected, not by the EGR but the good old worn out 20pence plastic cogs that you can't get seperately of course in the inlet manifold flap, Managed to get EGR and IMF replaced both as I managed to source the pair from Germany for 200 euro less than VW/ Skoda wanted for just the flap as I've now got just over 200,000km on the car so hopefully that will keep me going for another 5 years!

Been running my BLT without EGR for 2 and a half years with no problems

only positives in my book for doing that, im currently trying figure out getting it off my wifes euro eco box, more computers than microsoft hq. (other controlling corporations are available)

It's not recomended on an ASZ engine as the EGR also incorporates the ASV (Anti Shudder Valve).

This is mine. ASZ 130 106k miles:

It's not a big job to just clean it out every now and then tbh.

Phil, to clean the EGR is it literally a case of unbolting it and blasting with some degreaser and scrubbing? No lights come on the dash etc?

That's basically it!

I used some petrol to clean it as it breaks the gunk down and also evaporates very quickly even if it gets inside etc.

It is a little awkward to get to and you need to undo the bolts on the bottom on the pipe coming from exhaust before you can get to the bottom bolt for the EGR.

I put mine straight back on after cleaning as the petrol had evaporated and all was well. Running very nicely now.

Phil

Phil, to clean the EGR is it literally a case of unbolting it and blasting with some degreaser and scrubbing? No lights come on the dash etc?

I believe it can cause problem removing them to clean and then re fit for some reason, skoda mechanic said he usually finds they woul give problems after that, strange....

he is wrong, maybe his method is dodgy

I still have mine in place, but it's unplugged since my sticky turbo insident with the bus overtake & a good blast of mr muscle later it's all sorted - my cel light is now on constantly, but I can't remove it as the asz has the anti shudder valve built into it. And with the anti shudder valve it sounds broken when you turn it off!!!

he is wrong, maybe his method is dodgy

I believe it can cause problem removing them to clean and then re fit for some reason, skoda mechanic said he usually finds they woul give problems after that, strange....

This could be because it will need programing back it to the car or it will go back to stock values, not the ones matched with your car. Once mine was unplugged, i had to set mine back up with vagcom to remove the engine managment light.... But this could have been more to do with the throttle body i removed.

Iv got asz with egr delete. No issues, the first time I turned it off it sounded odd but use to it now. From what I remember it was pretty gunked up tbh.

My anti shudder valve wasn't working recently due to the connector broken on the vacuum controller. It was always very shaky when switching off and the whole car would shudder.

Now it's fixed it is very smooth when switching off and no vibrations can be felt.

The best thing to do with an ASZ EGR delete is to actually keep the EGR but remove the plunger and then just put a blanking plate on the pipe from the exhaust. That way you get to keep the ASV but while having no working EGR etc.

Seen it done on other forums before. It's also cheaper as you can keep all your existing pipe work and you only need the expense of a blanking plate (coke can cut out?)

Phil

^^ Is there a guide showing how to do/ check all the above?

Just tried searching but can't find it.

Obviously the only problem doing the above is that you will get an EML light on.

What I have done to reduce the ammount of gunk build up is:

* To perform the following adaptations (except idle) you need to use the Login function.

* Enter 12233 as a Login code.

* Misuse of some of the adaptations can lead to engine failure.

* This is done at your own risk!

* Note that the EGR setting is for off-road use only...

[select]

[01 - Engine]

[Login - 11]

Enter 12233 to activate special adaptations,

[Do It!]

[Adaptation - 10]

[Channel 003]

Give the throttle a tiny press and keep it like that.

You will see that it currently reads around 220 mg/h

Enter the new value 33768 / replacing the default

[Test]

Observe the "test value" field to make sure the adaptation setting is acceptable.

[save]

You will see the this figure go up to around 330 mg/h and the % drop.