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Track Rods same as Tie Rods

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That's the whole thing. I doubt you need anymore than just the track rod end - the ball joint that screws onto the end.

Also, and this is quite important, you are better off ordering genuine parts here, rather than pattern parts. The pattern parts tend to be slightly different in length, and chances are your tracking will be way off when replacing for OEM parts, although, you should get the tracking checked anyway, as a matter of course.

Grip the rod making sure it does not turn, remove the track rod end COUNTING THE NUMBER OF TURNS, and replace the trackrod end with the SAME NUMBER OF TURNS. If using pattern parts here, then all bets are off on the counting, and you will definitely need your tracking checked QUICKLY.

I'll never forget replacing trackrod ends for pattern parts years back, having still counted the number of turns, and not getting my tracking checked. In just over 100 miles, my tyre (although it only had about 3mm tread prior to changing) was down to the canvas on the outer edge.

I'd ALWAYS recommend going for OEM parts when it comes to ball joints, unless you know of a definite true upgrade.

Meyle and Febi parts are quite frankly a load of old tosh.

  • Author

Thanks will do.

Going to the skoda dealer today anyway.

Ok, I was changing rack gaitors, not rod ends, but I've never bothered with counting turns taking the end off. Just break the lock nut, wrap the exposed thread with tape, unscrew the end, do the job, and then spin the end back up and re-lock it. Someone' bound to claim I've "been lucky" but I've never moved the tracking doing this.

Also, IMO the term "tie rod" should never be used for the track rod; a tie rod can be any fixed length arm, such as in a MacPherson strut. In http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MacPherson_strut both the dark blue and lower purple arms are tie rods, because they tie the lower swivel into a fixed arc relative to the chassis leg.

Ok, I was changing rack gaitors, not rod ends, but I've never bothered with counting turns taking the end off. Just break the lock nut, wrap the exposed thread with tape, unscrew the end, do the job, and then spin the end back up and re-lock it. Someone' bound to claim I've "been lucky" but I've never moved the tracking doing this.

Same thing really, just perhaps slightly less accurate, depending on how much notice you take of how the trackrod end is to the tape.

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