Today I have prepared my car (snow foam, wash and clay) for some SRP and EGP tomorrow.

I have never used this stuff before, so have a couple of questions, if I may:

I have taped off all the rubber and hard plastics (sides of windscreen, mud flaps, wing mirrors etc) but I'm not sure about the lights (lenses). Being as they are also plastic, do I need to also protect them with tape? Secondly, if I should inadvertently get some of the SRP/EGP on the rubber/plastic, is there a cure?

Many thanks.

Mike.

Firstly if your taping everything off every time your going to apply SRP and EGP it's going to be a timely and expensive process..........:(

If you get the SRP on plastics or rubber then you will need to use an APC or something like Tardis to remove the residue.

As mentioned before SRP has micro abrasives and is a filler product but it will easily wipe off.

Firstly if your taping everything off every time your going to apply SRP and EGP it's going to be a timely and expensive process.......... :(

If you get the SRP on plastics or rubber then you will need to use an APC or something like Tardis to remove the residue.

As mentioned before SRP has micro abrasives and is a filler product but it will easily wipe off.

Wipe off the lenses you mean?

Well...I did mask off the lenses...just in case.

I was a bit dubious about using the SRP coz there have been a number of people on here that don't think its all that good. Its quite likely that there are some better products out there (and ones that do not effect rubber and plastic will be on my shopping list when these AG products run out) but in the meantime I'll keep using. Anyway...I found it a piece of doddle...not difficult to apply or remove and no dust when removing. So, anyone else with a bucket full of AG products (having had `Lifeshine` for example) can rest assured that it aint as bad as its sometimes made out.

Regards.

Mike.

You can wipe if off the plastics reasonably easily, its just an extra ball ache is all.

ITs not that abrasive, wont hurt the lights.

I think AG products get slammed because they are generally available and sold in Halfords For the majority of people they are going to be perfectly happy with them. For the specialist there's obviously 'better' products out there and as you've seen if you've visited detailingworld it's very partisan as to which product or manufacturer are the 'best'.

The best approach I've found is to work out what your cleaning regime is and then pick products to suit that. For me I want the car to look good (but not perfect) with minimal amount of effort and it has to cope with going 1 month between washes. So for me I went down the route of sealants to give maximum durability.

In the two years I've had my superb I haven't had to touch it with a polish. Now, on a bright sunny day or if you shine a torch on it you can see light swirl marks, and for most interested in detailing they'd be reaching for the polish to do a machine polish. For me you can't see the swirls on most British weather days and from the sealants it has plenty of shine, reflections and beading. So for me, it's not going to see a polish anytime soon.

There are water based polishes available that can be easily wiped off trim. I've used one of these with a DA to correct light scratches on some secondhand wing mirror covers for my wife's fiat 500 and its very easy to remove from rubber and trim. However, you'd have to ask somebody with more experience than me for recommendations.

One thing I would recommend though, is once you have worked out what wax/sealant to use is pick a shampoo that's recommended to work with that. I use a Dodo Juice shampoo, and I was surprised at what a difference using a good quality shampoo makes, and it is designed for using with the type of sealants I use.

Cheers

Steve

I think AG products get slammed because they are generally available and sold in Halfords For the majority of people they are going to be perfectly happy with them. For the specialist there's obviously 'better' products out there and as you've seen if you've visited detailingworld it's very partisan as to which product or manufacturer are the 'best'.

The best approach I've found is to work out what your cleaning regime is and then pick products to suit that. For me I want the car to look good (but not perfect) with minimal amount of effort and it has to cope with going 1 month between washes. So for me I went down the route of sealants to give maximum durability.

In the two years I've had my superb I haven't had to touch it with a polish. Now, on a bright sunny day or if you shine a torch on it you can see light swirl marks, and for most interested in detailing they'd be reaching for the polish to do a machine polish. For me you can't see the swirls on most British weather days and from the sealants it has plenty of shine, reflections and beading. So for me, it's not going to see a polish anytime soon.

There are water based polishes available that can be easily wiped off trim. I've used one of these with a DA to correct light scratches on some secondhand wing mirror covers for my wife's fiat 500 and its very easy to remove from rubber and trim. However, you'd have to ask somebody with more experience than me for recommendations.

One thing I would recommend though, is once you have worked out what wax/sealant to use is pick a shampoo that's recommended to work with that. I use a Dodo Juice shampoo, and I was surprised at what a difference using a good quality shampoo makes, and it is designed for using with the type of sealants I use.

Cheers

Steve

Thank you so much for taking the time to write this, Steve.

One question, Mate, and please excuse my ignorance, but what exactly do you mean by a `Sealant`? And can it just be applied to a freshly washed car? Is it any different to a `Quick Detailer`?

Many thanks.

Mike.

I think AG products get slammed because they are generally available and sold in Halfords For the majority of people they are going to be perfectly happy with them. For the specialist there's obviously 'better' products out there and as you've seen if you've visited detailingworld it's very partisan as to which product or manufacturer are the 'best'.

The best approach I've found is to work out what your cleaning regime is and then pick products to suit that. For me I want the car to look good (but not perfect) with minimal amount of effort and it has to cope with going 1 month between washes. So for me I went down the route of sealants to give maximum durability.

In the two years I've had my superb I haven't had to touch it with a polish. Now, on a bright sunny day or if you shine a torch on it you can see light swirl marks, and for most interested in detailing they'd be reaching for the polish to do a machine polish. For me you can't see the swirls on most British weather days and from the sealants it has plenty of shine, reflections and beading. So for me, it's not going to see a polish anytime soon.

There are water based polishes available that can be easily wiped off trim. I've used one of these with a DA to correct light scratches on some secondhand wing mirror covers for my wife's fiat 500 and its very easy to remove from rubber and trim. However, you'd have to ask somebody with more experience than me for recommendations.

One thing I would recommend though, is once you have worked out what wax/sealant to use is pick a shampoo that's recommended to work with that. I use a Dodo Juice shampoo, and I was surprised at what a difference using a good quality shampoo makes, and it is designed for using with the type of sealants I use.

Cheers

Steve

You raise some good points...........

AG products don't get slammed, IMHO the AG brand is a little like Megs, it's a widely accessible brand that is marketed well for the car enthusiast but some of the products leave you wondering if you have spent your money wisely. As you quite rightly point out if your a 'detailer' then there will be plenty of other options, if you are a 'cleaner' then you will just purchase what's easy to source.

Shampoo choice is very important once you have applied a sealant or wax to your paintwork as this will effect it's durability as you have quite rightly pointed out...........

Thank you so much for taking the time to write this, Steve.

One question, Mate, and please excuse my ignorance, but what exactly do you mean by a `Sealant`? And can it just be applied to a freshly washed car? Is it any different to a `Quick Detailer`?

Many thanks.

Mike.

A sealant comes into the same catgory as a wax in terms of the abbreviation 'LSP', Last Stage Product.

Sealant's are widely used over waxes nowadays as they can offer increased durability and in some cases easier application, many people will layer a wax over a sealant but in reality this is not necessary.

You can buy various Spary Sealant's but these are different to a Quick Detailer as is most cases these are used as a cleaning product, although granted some can contain a top up to your already applied wax or sealant.

Cor Blimey...I'm finding all this soooooo confusing.

Can I please take it down to basics...

As long as it says `Sealant` in the container I can just wack it on a freshly washed car for some protection...yes?

(I am lucky enough to be retired and plenty of time, so durability of protection is not an issue. Also, pretty soon the roads around here will be caked in mud (care of the tractor brigade) so washing the car becomes a regular task. If I can then just wack on this sealer stuff...job done!)

Cor Blimey...I'm finding all this soooooo confusing.

Can I please take it down to basics...

As long as it says `Sealant` in the container I can just wack it on a freshly washed car for some protection...yes?

(I am lucky enough to be retired and plenty of time, so durability of protection is not an issue. Also, pretty soon the roads around here will be caked in mud (care of the tractor brigade) so washing the car becomes a regular task. If I can then just wack on this sealer stuff...job done!)

A little research goes a long way............

To get the optimum durbaility and benefit of any sealant the surface needs to be well prepped, then as you suggest you an 'wack it on', the same also applies for a wax, it's all down to the prep.......

Rough idea of the steps. Dont necessarily do all the steps all the time(ie dont always need to clay or do a restoration polish)

Edited 19 October, 201213 yr by Chronicbint

OMG...this is getting even more complicated...I think I'm gonna sell my new car and buy a dirty rusty old banger!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Seriously though, reading above it suggests that bi-annually or quarterly I need to polish my car THREE times... surely not?

And, what is in that `Maintain` bottle...Quick Detailer?

OMG...this is getting even more complicated...I think I'm gonna sell my new car and buy a dirty rusty old banger!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Seriously though, reading above it suggests that bi-annually or quarterly I need to polish my car THREE times... surely not?

And, what is in that `Maintain` bottle...Quick Detailer?

This is the difference between valeting and detailing, it all depends on how far you want to go, the above is purely a guide and it isn't the bible.....

It means to 'Maintain' your wax and sealant, you should apply a Quick Detailer after washing to top up the protection..........

Will quote myself...

"Rough idea of the steps. Dont necessarily do all the steps all the time(ie dont always need to clay or do a restoration polish)"

Read here:

http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/car-care-advice.html

This has everything you need to know....Ive not found a better guide on t'internet

(I am lucky enough to be retired and plenty of time, so durability of protection is not an issue. Also, pretty soon the roads around here will be caked in mud (care of the tractor brigade) so washing the car becomes a regular task. If I can then just wack on this sealer stuff...job done!)

Given this use something like Hydra Wax from Bilt Hamber might work well for you. It's really easy to apply in any temps and easy to buff off and would help in making it quick to clean wheels and paint. I have some in the garage and I'll be happy to post you some to try it out without spending more money.

Cheers

Steve

Read here:

http://www.polishedb...are-advice.html

This has everything you need to know....Ive not found a better guide on t'internet

Thanks for this, Chris. I already have this in `My Favourites` and have read the whole lot. I refer to it from time to time. I much prefer the advice of people like you though so I hope to gleen more personal experiences rather than writen text...until people get fed up with me of course.

Given this use something like Hydra Wax from Bilt Hamber might work well for you. It's really easy to apply in any temps and easy to buff off and would help in making it quick to clean wheels and paint. I have some in the garage and I'll be happy to post you some to try it out without spending more money.

Cheers

Steve

Thank you so much for your kind offer, Steve. My garage shelf is creaking under the weight of products I keep buying so I wont take you up on it. I will certainly keep the product in mind for the future though. Thank you again.

I can recommend ALL Bilt Hamber products..They work for me.

At the moment I'm using Collinite 845 but as Simon (Baker21) states...Its all in the preparation

I can recommend ALL Bilt Hamber products..They work for me.

At the moment I'm using Collinite 845 but as Simon (Baker21) states...Its all in the preparation

Yeah I can see that, Chris. I've just come in having spent the past 3 days cleaning my car. I've really enjoyed doing it but I'm not that impressed with the result.

Wednesday: Rinse, snow foam, rinse, wash, dry, clay, dry, clean and protect alloys with Chemical Guys Sealant, tape up ready for polish.

Yesterday: A coat of SRP and remove, a coat of EGP and put in garage overnight to bond.

Today: Remove EGP, apply a second coat of EGP and remove, remove all tape and clean windows and screens.

Its shiny allright...VERY shiny and it has plenty of protection. The trouble is, when I look at the boot lid I can see marks under the shine...as if I hadn't dried the thing properly. I'm wondering if I should have rinsed the car after I'd clayed it...but I used Bilt Hamber Clay with Deionised water as a lubricant, so didn't think I needed to. Anyway, as I said, I enjoyed doing it and unless you look REALLY closely...it looks FAB. Thank you for all your invaluable afdvice.

Best Regards.

Mike.

Yeah I can see that, Chris. I've just come in having spent the past 3 days cleaning my car. I've really enjoyed doing it but I'm not that impressed with the result.

Wednesday: Rinse, snow foam, rinse, wash, dry, clay, dry, clean and protect alloys with Chemical Guys Sealant, tape up ready for polish.

Yesterday: A coat of SRP and remove, a coat of EGP and put in garage overnight to bond.

Today: Remove EGP, apply a second coat of EGP and remove, remove all tape and clean windows and screens.

Its shiny allright...VERY shiny and it has plenty of protection. The trouble is, when I look at the boot lid I can see marks under the shine...as if I hadn't dried the thing properly. I'm wondering if I should have rinsed the car after I'd clayed it...but I used Bilt Hamber Clay with Deionised water as a lubricant, so didn't think I needed to. Anyway, as I said, I enjoyed doing it and unless you look REALLY closely...it looks FAB. Thank you for all your invaluable afdvice.

Best Regards.

Mike.

Which clay have you used? What grade?

If you can see marks in the lacquer that weren't there before then chances are that you have 'marred' the paint when claying.......

Which clay have you used? What grade?

If you can see marks in the lacquer that weren't there before then chances are that you have 'marred' the paint when claying.......

Oh dear! I used Bilt Hamber Soft. Its the first time I've used a clay bar so its quite likely that I've messed up!

If I have in fact damaged the paint, I take it the only way to cure it would be to somehow remove all the layers of protection back down to the original paint and start again! Bugger that!!!

It wont be damaged..Just polish that again and re apply the sealer

BTW...I would say a month at best for that sealer before it will need redoing

It wont be damaged..Just polish that again and re apply the sealer

BTW...I would say a month at best for that sealer before it will need redoing

Will polishing by hand do the job, Chris?