Had the car 4 days now, already changed the console bushes since they were split nd knocking... got a few other problems as well!

- When braking at low speeds i can hear a dronin noise, could be the bigger brakes im not used to

- The turbo seems to whistle alot, somtimes i can hear it slightly when it starts idling high around 1,000rpm

- Knocking while braking, pulling away & going over bumps (solved now with console bushes changed)

NOW!!

Everytime i start the car it idles around 750, 800'ish like normal, but after 5 seconds or so it slowly goes up untill it gets to 1,000 and stays there! thinking it could have been throttle position sensor but the idle happens almost all the time and doesnt go away with a blip of the throttle or by revving. Im thinking this could be linked to my other problem...

I got in the car for work but had to pick up a package first, i drove smooth for around 3 miles and then had abit fun with the boost on a stop start 60mph stretch with an Audi A4, i drove about 5 miles all together, went to get the package from vauxhall (A boost pipe from a zafera, about 9" long nd cost £91!) took about 10 minutes if that, went back to the car and it wouldnt start.

It just turned over and over for a very long time and sort of started abit then applied some throttle and it got it going. I started to reverse out of the parking bay and the engine cut out and wouldnt start again, lots of turning over etc.. etc... kept cutting out and not starting for ages, happend about 4 times. When it started the 4th time i just held the revs around 3k to get out of the parking bay and onto an open road, drove another 5 mile or so, parked it up at work, turned it off, waited about 30 seconds and it started again straight away.

(Another similar story but not as bad but wont bore on with to much detail!) - Happend about 3 times in the 4 days i've had the car.

Also had it scanned and got..

Scan Results:

Camshaft Position Sensor-G40; no signal

Central control module - locking unit for cl pass. side-f221

Idea's and help please! - Its a 2007 model with a blt engine & 74k miles. Thanks

My VRS sometimes when I start it up the turbo whistles and slowly fades out - Lasts about 6 seconds.

Completely different engine and car.. my 1.4 16v fabia had similar behaviour when the coolant temp sensor was playing up.. Was making a mess of the fuel - air mixture.. difficult to start.. idle anywhere up to 2000rpm..

Not sure it would do the same on a diesel.. but certainly sounds like similar symptoms..

I keep meaning to strip the EGR valve and manifold off to clean them all and to rule it out, im also going to do the trick of removing the battery for an hour or so to reset the "set values" which can also play up with the car.

So much to do and no time to do it in!

Bump? Going to sort the car out tomorrow cleaning the manifold, egr and battery reset so will post back with results.

Well first things first i removed the battery, hoping doing this would reset the idle values etc.

I then set about removing the egr valve and asv, both really easy to do. Pulled the pipe off the top, took the asv off with the 3 screws. Then took the egr valve pipe off the bottom by removing 2 allen key bolts, then removed the reamining two holding it on, easy. I also removed the boost pipes to inspect them all and to check the turbo. All seemed fine with no splits etc so dont know why im getting turbo whistle all the time even on idle!

Tried removing the manifold as well but seemed like to much hastle trying to get the 6 bolds off holding it in place!

Usual story for the asv and egr, thick with oil and crap a good 5 - 10mm of sludge all around the side.

Dont know if cleaning it out will fix my starting problem or not but seems ok so far, i'll find out over the next couple of days i guess.

Im still having problems with idling though... When i start it, it idles fine for about 5 seconds then slowly creeps up to just over 1k. After a couple of mile it drops to around 800 like normal untill the engines switched off for a minute or two, when restarting it does the same... Idles at 800 then creeps up to over 1000 and sits there :/

Have you checked what settings are enabled on VCDS? If i remember rightly they should be set at 32750.

What setting should be set to that mate?

I've scanned for faults but nothing els.

Take these instructions with a pinch of salt until someone who knows more than me can confirm this however I believe you choose;

Engine

Adaption, 04 - This should be set to 32750 as standard.

Guys correct me if I am wrong.

I have an adaptions list so i can set the idle to the correct one but think it must have a different fault somewhere making the revs go up and down all the time.

Maybe its the sensor that detects a cold engine is faulty? MAF?

I noticed today when cleaning the egr that my coolant bottle has no plug on the top of it like my other two previoisly have?

So there is no cap at the top of bottle? You having to fill up all the time? - Hot water will evaporate leaving you with none.

Ah no sorry i wasnt clear, the bottle is all there like normal, but its ment to have a plug at the top i THINK its a coolant level sensor so dont think its related to the problem but i'll fix it anyway when i get a chance...

Made no difference cleaning the egr and asv then. Still having problems starting time to time and still having problems with idle.

Will get a camshaft sensor tomorrow and try that. Will also get a throttle position sensor and try that if it isnt to much.

cam sensor or temp sensor

Well if it's less than a tena i'll put a temp sensor in also. Still need to try and find the plug that goes into the coolant bottle and check if thats at fault or somthing also....

I only want to use dealer parts so went in today to get them.

I dont have the invoice untill i pick them up on thursday so dont know if these prices are exact or plus vat!

so for genuine dealer parts it was £26 for temp sensor, £36 for cam sensor and £80 for throttle position sensor! I orderd temp and cam but not the throttle as its abit much tbh.

Getting them deliverd to work on thursday so will have better prices themln as well

I only want to use dealer parts so went in today to get them.

I dont have the invoice untill i pick them up on thursday so dont know if these prices are exact or plus vat!

so for genuine dealer parts it was £26 for temp sensor, £36 for cam sensor and £80 for throttle position sensor! I orderd temp and cam but not the throttle as its abit much tbh.

Getting them deliverd to work on thursday so will have better prices then as well

I know i keep updating but just want to keep it up to date incasd anyone uses the search button...

Anyway, its taken a turn for the worse! The car now always takes ages to start but even when driving the car will cut out every 10 meters or so... Had to limp it home from the shops with it keep cutting out! Even at full throttle :/

If you've got a multi meter.. whip out the coolant temp sensor and check it's resistance stability when being dipped into boiling water etc.. Or maybe Vagcom has a temp read out?

When my temp sensor went tits up it gave no error codes.. it was intermittent.. fine one minute, rough the next.. hard to start one time and refusing the next.. when he was reading out the coolants detected temperature it's be a stable 90, say... then plummet to 10, then up past 100.. then 20 or something and back to the true 90.. thoroughly confusing the ecu.. It's a cheap part.. can't hurt..

When a Maf fails it drives rough but I don't think it'll cut out.. I read on here once that to test if the MAFs working.. just un plug it and it should get worse....

Thanks for the reply and advice!

I belive the temp sensors can do funny things to the engine... i have no reason to think its at fault other than what i've read on forums and some advice from the parts desk.

However i have evidence that would indicate the cam sensor is at fault (after scanning the car) but... I dont think a faulty cam sensor would give me the problems im getting... :/

This is the exact same problem as mine, even the scan results the same, starting the same & cutting out while driving at any speeds. Mine is also a 56 plate and alao had the timing belt replaced around 4,000k ago? Unrelated i asume.

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/202447-starting-cutting-out-problems/

Shame no cure is listed...

Edited 23 October, 201213 yr by hutchysrs50

Fitted the cam sensor this morning, was easy enough to do really. Removed the boost pipes on the left, removed the cam belt cover, took the 10mm bolt out, removed the rubber bung thing, old one out, new one in, sorted.

Drove about 20 mile today and all seems fine so far but hard to tell at the minute, will find out over the next few days.

The problem with the high idle is still pressent so thought i might as well change the water temp sensor also since people say they cause problems?

Again was easy enough to do but i done the job when the engine was a full temp and very hot (which your not ment to do for obvious reasons)

I removed a few 10mm bolts on the airbox, removed the air flow meter plug and took the spring clip holding the airbox pipes on off to remove them. With the airbox off i wrapped abit cloth over the sensor since it would be hot and put some rubber cloves on. Put a screwdriver under the clip, popped it off, removed the sensor & o-ring, replaced with new sensor.

I put everything back together, topped up coolant with pure anti-freeze, scanned the car for fault codes, cleared them all, had a 30 minute drive re-scanned with a full scan checking everything and taking about half an hour... It had zero faults on the system.

still have a problem with my idle but will make a new thread with pictures and a video later to show you lot.

Thanks

Thanks for updating us