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Steel Wheels, Skoda Rif wheel trims & Cable Ties

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Ebay transaction blocked. Item no longer available! :devil:

Who bought them all?

Fred

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  • Perhaps its to stop them getting nicked!

  • Stop knicking or simply to make them more secure. I have seen lots of people use the kerb as a secondary steering device and this has resulted in the trim becoming insecure and at the first opportunit

  • All noted with interest. Re. the cost of a service - I received a bill for £61.48 on the 25th April 2012 for the 1st service - but did supply my own oil. I have no bargaining power with my local de

Ebay transaction blocked. Item no longer available! :devil:

Who bought them all?

Fred

Mine came from a seller called... twdiscounts ...who has 21843 feedbacks and still seems to be trading...was this the one you tried?

Why not buy a long coach bolt from Wickes/ B and Q etc and cut the head off.

Much cheaper and just as effective.

Does anyone know the bolt size off the top of their head?

I'll make a few and list them on Ebay for £4 including postage. I need a warm pastime during this cold weather

Whoops...... it's M14 as per the Ebay listing.

so ..............http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M14-x-200-HIGH-TENSILE-ZINC-PLATED-HEX-HEAD-BOLT-X-1-/300746676859?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item4605e61a7b&_uhb=1

Anyone seen these. Cheaper than steels and trims

http://www.ebay.co.u...41916f15&_uhb=1

Yes :sun:

gallery_80615_568_163736.jpg

They are an exact fit for the Yeti. No shims required (57mm centre) 6.5J ET48. The shoulder profile on the supplied wheel bolts appear to be identical to the OEM bolts. I'm using the MSW ones but with Skoda's locking bolt. They are obviously smaller than the 17s, but there is plenty of clearance on the 312mm front brakes. I think they are similar(ish) to the OEM Spitzbergs, which is what prompted my choice. Ride is a little smoother than the 17s with Dunlops, but there is a little more lean in corners taken 'enthusiastically'. Grip with the Nokian WR A3s seems to be every bit as good as the Dunlops, but as they've only been on the car since Saturday I haven't had time for a more complete comparison.

Why not buy a long coach bolt from Wickes/ B and Q etc and cut the head off.

Much cheaper and just as effective.

Does anyone know the bolt size off the top of their head?

I'll make a few and list them on Ebay for £4 including postage. I need a warm pastime during this cold weather

Whoops...... it's M14 as per the Ebay listing.

so ..............http://www.ebay.co.u...05e61a7b&_uhb=1

Got to be honest for not a lot more money you get the item without the need to cut the head off (and therefore keep the plated finish) and get the screw slot, plus it's smooth along its length (apart from the fine grip at the end) which prevents it abrading the inside of the wheel hole as you draw the wheel off (which, as you know, is heavy.

Edited by oldstan

Opps!!

Read it wrong!

OK. No wheel abrasion at all as only the smooth shaft would go through the bolt hole. You don't need a screw slot as I'm sure you can hand screw it in and out. You can get them for a pound or less but I Just used the ebay picture for ease. Granted its not plated on the end. Personally the satisfaction of making something is more important than the cash saving.

  • Author

Agreed. Bought two on Ebay on the advice of someone on here. Recommended.

Is it better to use two rather than one? I can see it aligns all the holes accurately but with one doesn't the hub act as the second location point?

Is it better to use two rather than one? I can see it aligns all the holes accurately but with one doesn't the hub act as the second location point?

I would honestly say just get one if I thought it'd be just as easy - but two fitted diametrically does hold it more securely and make the job easier. Even then you have to keep an eye on it as it's not held rock solid. As has been said, without them it really is a bit of a nuisance as the lip is so small and the wheels are quite heavy.

OK. No wheel abrasion at all as only the smooth shaft would go through the bolt hole. You don't need a screw slot as I'm sure you can hand screw it in and out. You can get them for a pound or less but I Just used the ebay picture for ease. Granted its not plated on the end. Personally the satisfaction of making something is more important than the cash saving.

Then there's nothing more to be said.

Yes :sun:

They are an exact fit for the Yeti. No shims required (57mm centre) 6.5J ET48. The shoulder profile on the supplied wheel bolts appear to be identical to the OEM bolts. I'm using the MSW ones but with Skoda's locking bolt. They are obviously smaller than the 17s, but there is plenty of clearance on the 312mm front brakes. I think they are similar(ish) to the OEM Spitzbergs, which is what prompted my choice. Ride is a little smoother than the 17s with Dunlops, but there is a little more lean in corners taken 'enthusiastically'. Grip with the Nokian WR A3s seems to be every bit as good as the Dunlops, but as they've only been on the car since Saturday I haven't had time for a more complete comparison.

What size rubber is fitted in that pic?

205/55/16s (Nokian WR A3s). Very grippy so far.

205/55/16s (Nokian WR A3s). Very grippy so far.

Aren't they about an inch smaller than normal for a yeti?

  • Author

Ebay listing blocked (no longer available). There is another ebay site selling the same (in pairs).

http://www.ebay.co.u...=item35c037a97f

Thanks - just ordered a set. Too late for this change but at least I know the change back to alloys in the Spring will not be such a struggle.

I changed all 4 wheels today using the jack a pair of hands (mine) and one of my feet.

I can't see what the problem is.

Take wheel off. Easy.

Put other wheel on lip, as crouching down anyway, move a foot forwards and press against wheel keeping wheel square against the hub. Fit bolt finger tight.

I can the move foot away and fit the other bolts. Finger lighten all round, nip slightly with brace. Lower car and then torque up to 120Nm.

Pump tyres up to 2.4bar as they have all dropped to 1.8 since April.

Fit VW Caddy hub caps.

Job done.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I got one of these a few years ago, and it does make changing easier, less faffing about getting the wheel aligned

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

  • Author

I changed all 4 wheels today using the jack a pair of hands (mine) and one of my feet.

I can't see what the problem is.

Take wheel off. Easy.

Put other wheel on lip, as crouching down anyway, move a foot forwards and press against wheel keeping wheel square against the hub. Fit bolt finger tight.

I can the move foot away and fit the other bolts. Finger lighten all round, nip slightly with brace. Lower car and then torque up to 120Nm.

Pump tyres up to 2.4bar as they have all dropped to 1.8 since April.

Fit VW Caddy hub caps.

Job done.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

I am sure you are right and that there is a knack to it. However, if a piece of inexpensive kit makes life easier than why not go for it.

I am sure you are right and that there is a knack to it. However, if a piece of inexpensive kit makes life easier than why not go for it.

Totally agree.

I recently took the 17" alloys off to install some new centre caps (I know they can be removed without wheels coming off but did not want to damage alloys in the process). I am pretty fit, but have to say they are a bugger to line up perfectly so IMO for £10 why not make life easy. My main reason for purchasing is, imagine having an (offside) puncture on a motorway at night in the rain. I do not want to (quote) "Put other wheel on lip, as crouching down anyway, move a foot forwards and press against wheel keeping wheel square against the hub. Fit bolt finger tight.

I can the move foot away and fit the other bolts. Finger lighten all round, nip slightly with brace. Lower car and then torque up to 120Nm".

Enough said!

imagine having an (offside) puncture on a motorway at night in the rain.

Easy solution to that.............phone to be rescued!

I would NEVER change an off-side wheel on the motorway, and probably wouldn't change any wheel if honest.

Easy solution to that.............phone to be rescued!

I would NEVER change an off-side wheel on the motorway, and probably wouldn't change any wheel if honest.

OK - lets omit the word "Motorway". Anywhere with a puncture is a problem. Yes, you can "wait" up to an hour (maybe more) for AA/RAC, but I would rather fix it myself and be on my way ASAP, as I am sure most "competent" owners would do. Point I was trying to illustrate was a worse case scenario.

Easy solution to that.............phone to be rescued!

I would NEVER change an off-side wheel on the motorway, and probably wouldn't change any wheel if honest.

I am with Graham on this point. I carry a gunge can for if I find myself in this situation and help is not quickly available. If it ruins the tyre so be it. In my experience the tyre is generally shot anyway.

I am with Graham on this point. I carry a gunge can for if I find myself in this situation and help is not quickly available. If it ruins the tyre so be it. In my experience the tyre is generally shot anyway.

Try using "Gunge" on a large sidewall split - useless!

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