my vrs wont start, i assume its a flat battery as i cant get into boot and my interior light is dim, this is exactly how it was the last time i had a flat battery when it was stood at manchester airport for a couple of weeks, a couple of years ago.

never really had any battery related starting problem,

...until 5.30 this morning and should be at work as i write this !

as the car is five years old, im just going to bite the bullet and buy a new battery this morning and get into work or i lose a lot of dosh..

i know car batterry last on average 5 years and can die without any warning...im hoping this is the case with mine as its started first time every time, yesterday it was colder than this morning and it started 1st time !

is there anything else it could be ? will have the alternator checked just in case though....

thanks guys !

Edited 7 November, 201213 yr by studmuffin

It does sound like your battery is past it,5 years is ok for a battery,some last longer,depends on how the car is used,id fit a new one & check its charging ok,the cold weather does show up a weak batery.

At that age there is a high chance that it is the battery at fault. Somewhere like Halfords can run a battery test to confirm 100%.

Well I'm not happy, bought a new battery, fitted it, had my alternator checked everything ok, went to get in my car at work to go home, won't start another flat battery ! I'm writing this as I wait for the AA....

cars been stood for eight hours so something is really eating the battery..

You need an ammeter in series with one lead.(- I'd suggest the negative one) ( and Maplin have one about £8 called Domestic multimeter ). Put it on highest range ( 10A ) and work downwards. Can't remember the ideal current you are looking for(someone will advise). If over this - it's fuse pull time I'm afraid ,to see which circuit is draining. The meter is digital so it doesn't matter which way round you connect leads (all you'll do is get a - on display if wrong way ). It can be used to check charge voltage ,too- stick it on volts ( 20v DC ) and run engine with all electrics on . Should be around 13.8v

Well the AA have just left and I have a cooling fan problem, because as soon as he connected his van to my car to jump start it, my cooling fan came on and my ignition keys were not even in ! Also when he turned the engine off, the electric ' hum ' that you normally hear for 10 or so seconds after you've switched off, carried on for 2-3 minutes....

He did say that could be anything, ecu, cooling fan sensor fault....

So here we go again, another intermittent fault in less than 5 months....

Edited 8 November, 201213 yr by studmuffin

Well I've got another flat battery....

Car started fine several times over the weekend

Had everything checked last Friday after the first episode, no fault codes, alternator voltage ok...

Just wondering if temp sensor could be the problem, i.e, could be running fan thinkin engine is hot, fan did run when AA connected jump leads and the ignition keys were not even in the car !

Also have a strange humming sound coming from engine, here is my post on that problem

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/255644-humming-noise-from-engine-when-switched-off/page__fromsearch__1

Thanks guys

I know that the PD140 could suffer an issue with the Intake Manifold Flap, it would seize and take out the fuse supplying it (in the engine fuse box) and the fan controller which would make the fans run. I had mine replaced under warranty on my previous 8P A3. Not sure if the same issue was then on the PD170.

The IMF is at the front of the engine where the charged air comes up from the Intercooler, where the EGR valve is on the PD140 and the 170 could be similar.