This is a guide on how to replace the OEM suspension with uprated items. The fronts are MacPherson struts & springs & the rears are separate dampers & springs.

I've used Eibach Pro Kit springs & Pro Dampers.

Front Struts

Step 1.

Once the wheels are off & the front end is on axle stands, you need to undo the pinch bolt that holds the strut to the hub (Figure 1). You will need a M14 spline bit socket for the bolt & a 18mm spanner for the nut. These are on pretty tight, so a spray of WD40 or similar maybe required. When the pinch bolt is off, you can then undo the ARB drop link nut. Push the drop link out of the bracket & move out of the way. Push the ABS sensor pipe grommets off the clips & release the clip backet from the strut (Figure 2).

Figure 1. Pinch bolt that holds the strut in the hub.

Figure 2. Anti Roll Bar drop link nut & ABS sensor pipe clips.

Step 2.

Open up the bonnet & take off the vacuum box & bracket on the O/S strut top then push to one side. Pop out the the plastic caps on both strut top. Using an allen key & short box spanner (this was modified to suit the job), slacken off the nut. Again, this is very tight & lock thread lock has probably been used (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Strut top nut & top mount bolts.

Step 3.

You can now start the drop the hub down from the strut. This is the most time comsuming & sometimes frustrating part! There maybe a special tool for this, but good old brute force was used by wedging a suitable chisel in the slot of the hub & then hammering down in the hub.

When the hub reaches about three quarters of the way down, use spring compressors on the spring to release the tension & start to hammer the hub down again.

Eventually, the hub will completely drop from the strut. Unbolt the three top mount bolts & remove the complete strut & spring (Figure 4).

Figure 4. Complete strut, spring, top mount & rubber boot removed from the car.

Step 4.

Whilst the strut is off the car, remove the top strut nut by using the allen key & box spanner. Take off the top mount, rubber boot & spring & uncompress it.

Step 5.

With the new strut & spring, compress the spring & place on the seat of the strut. Refit the rubber boot & top mount & tighten the strut top nut (use a bit of thread lock before putting the nut on). Offer the complete strut & spring into the car & tighten the three top mount bolts. Make sure the ABS sensor pipe is behind the strut. Position the strut back into the hub, making sure that it's in-line up with the slot in the hub. Hammer the hub up onto the strut until the pinch bolt hole lines up with the one on the strut (use the jack to hold the hub up & slowly raise it to put tension on it). Uncompress the spring, replace the pinch bolt, drop link nut & pipe bracket & push the gromments back in (Figure 5). Tighten up all nuts & bolts! Remember to put the vacuum box & bracket back on top of the strut.

Figure 5. New strut & spring fitted.

The wheels can be put back on & the axle stands can be removed.

Rear Springs & dampers

Step 1.

Once the wheels are off & the rear end is on axle stands (do not place them on the beam axle), you need to remove the wheel arch liner to access the top bolts of the damper (Figure 6). With the liner removed, untighten the top & bottom bolts of the damper. Compress the spring with the compressors.

Figure 6. Rear damper top bolts.

Step 2.

Remove the damper & untighten the top nut to release the top mount & bump stop (yellowy orange thing!) (Figure 7).

Figure 7. Rear damper removed with top mount & bump stop.

Step 3.

Whilst the spring is still compressed, push down on the trailing arm of the axle & remove the spring (Figure 8).

Figure 8. Compressed spring ready for removal.

Step 4.

Uncompress the spring & remove the rubber mount. Refit the rubber mount to the new spring & fit the spring to the axle. Refit the bump stop & top mount to the new damper & tighten the top nut (the new nut is a Nylock nut & is a different size AF to th old one).

Offer the new damper up to the car & replace the top & bottom bolts (Figure 9).

Tighten all nuts & bolts! Replace the wheel arch liner & put the wheels back on.

Figure 9. New spring & damper fitted.

Nice one mate.

I have a sneaking suspicion I'll be assisting someone with this very operation shortly.

A couple of tips for you to add if you like.

No1, There is a special tool that inserts into the back of the hub under the front damper. Its oval shaped and when turned through 90 degrees it opens up the hub so you can pull the damper out without resorting to thumping it.

No2, Although very safety consious you dont need spring compressors to do the rear springs. Just drop the lower damper bolt out and you can pull the spring out, theres very little tension on it and its perfectly safe. The new spring which is shorter just pops in. You can do both at the same time if you like, the axle beam only drops down a little and wont fall out.

Looks good - when my mate fitted mine (on his drive), the only problems we hit was getting the dampers out of the front hubs (needed big f*** off big hammer ) and compressing the front springs which we ended up doing at his dealership

Chris

Be very carefull when hitting the hub that you dont damage the ABS sensor, its quite delicate.

The trick is as mentioned undo the top three bolts first and drop the leg down, compress the spring and lift the damper out of the top of the hub, no hammers needed.

A couple of tips for you to add if you like.

No1' date=' There is a special tool that inserts into the back of the hub under the front damper. Its oval shaped and when turned through 90 degrees it opens up the hub so you can pull the damper out without resorting to thumping it.

No2, Although very safety consious you dont need spring compressors to do the rear springs. Just drop the lower damper bolt out and you can pull the spring out, theres very little tension on it and its perfectly safe. The new spring which is shorter just pops in. You can do both at the same time if you like, the axle beam only drops down a little and wont fall out.[/quote']

Could have done with the hub tool, but had to make do with what we had in the tool box!

Never really thought of just pulling the rear spring out without compressing it.

Seemed very easy to remove when the trailing armwas pushed down!

Forgot to mention, this guide is obviously for one side. You need to do the other side aswell!!

Hi, Is this same process for 2001 pd100 fabia please?

John

Hi, Is this same process for 2001 pd100 fabia please?

Yep exactly the same (with the exception the lowering springs drop it 35-40mm)

Chris

Where'd the pictures go?!

Pictures uploading OK now.

Maybe Photobucket had a bit of a glitch earlier on?????

Nice one mate.

I have a sneaking suspicion I'll be assisting someone with this very operation shortly.

Best have a few weeks break before you try it again, eh mate?

Chris

Best have a few weeks break before you try it again' date=' eh mate?

Chris[/quote']

Yeah, I'll try not to get sun burnt this time and I'll have some new spring compressors

Thought I would ressurect this thread.

It has all the info I need and it might be useful for other members.

Also, should it be moved to Technical Guides?