New turbo, actual VS requested boost is out

[NoSmokeNoPoke]

UPDATE - Had the very helpful turbo builder visit me and has checked, double checked and triple checked with changing the actuator rod (within spec, nothing extreme) and the drive is much the same. I must say it does boost slightly quicker, but no shove at all and something isn't right. This left us head scratching! A phone call later and speaking to a very helpful Dean, i'm booked in and heading up to Dirty Torque tomorrow for some VCDS/VAGCOM testing.

If the turbo is right, then im now leaning towards a dodgy N75/vacuum box. It does pull the turbo 'shut' on idle, but im just wondering if it has no control over the turbo to boost properly? Funny how this happened in the same day as changing the turbo though... anyway, i'll report back when i know more!

[Titanium_Man]

Sounds like a right headache. Hope you get it sorted quickly dude

[NoSmokeNoPoke]

Its a right pain, but i'm not losing hope yet, its got to be something! - I'm certain with the right kit and knowledge Dirty Torque can find the problem tomorrow.

I should open up a booky type betting. 2 to 1 on the N75!

[JoshH]

Credit to me if it is that :p

[Titanium_Man]

Its a right pain, but i'm not losing hope yet, its got to be something! - I'm certain with the right kit and knowledge Dirty Torque can find the problem tomorrow.

I should open up a booky type betting. 2 to 1 on the N75!

That's the spirit, keep the faith and it'll be worth it

[trebormint]

Its a right pain, but i'm not losing hope yet, its got to be something! - I'm certain with the right kit and knowledge Dirty Torque can find the problem tomorrow.

I should open up a booky type betting. 2 to 1 on the N75!

good odds there! So is the turbo now a long shot?

Good luck for tomorrow, sure it will be sorted then once and for all

[NoSmokeNoPoke]

It could still be the turbo, but the main actuator is definitely set right now, and adjusted to suit better. It could be a mechanical fault on the VNT mechanism, but unlikely and other avenues need to be looked into first. It'll be plugged into VCDS in the morning and go from there.

[NoSmokeNoPoke]

To wrap this up - It was the turbo that needed adjusting. Both actuator rod and stop screw were adjusted with the help of VCDS/VAGCOM to keep an eye on actual vs requested amongst other things.

[Richard-vrs]

I know this is an old post ish, but how difficult is it to have the actuator rod and top screw adjusted?

My original kkk turbo went and I got the standard garrett one, had some turbo issues with it last year and was told it was requesting 1.6 bar but actually producing 1.9 bar (on stage one remap).

I was told on here could be the map sensor or vacuum box.

The thing that is worrying me is that the original vacuum box went a while back and i got one from a golf, which although the letter was different I checked on a post here at the time and it was meant to be compatible.

is it worth changing the map sensor? And vacuum box or can they be checked without replacing them?