Titanium_Man

Have you tried taking off the lower engine mount so you can move the engine slightly to get the bolt out?

Welcome, fellow Bristolian

Driving to North Devon for work this morning and the number or morons with only their DRL’s on (so no rear lights) not realising they’re pretty much invisible to those behind them due to the spray off the motorway. Madness. 😱

Any reason why you’ve started another thread on the same topic?!

The headlights themselves are plug and play. I swapped the halogen units on mine for Xenons, but not the level sensor or larger washer bottle. The reflectors/lens can and do fade over time, thus reducing their effectiveness. I have seen a post where someone was going to replace the reflectors/lens, but don’t recall if I read the end result?! @Lofty I has a great wealth of knowledge and may be able to offer more

I did come across a replacement sill piece for £80 on EBay but the blerb suggested it was made in China, so decided against it in the end. Got access to a body shop, so I would hope they have some tools to help with making the weld-in panel. Will check tomorrow whilst I’m on site. For the sake of clarity …. You said don’t get galvanised, instead get Zinc coated or Not zinc coated metal?

Nice to see something different on this forum as we don’t get many threads like this 😞 Not done anything like this until now, but got this job to do on mine this year, so subscribed Great work so far!

A couple of moments of joy; Yesterday was the first time I got to drive my trusty 2005 Fabia vRS in the best part of a year. God I loved being back in the old girl. (Didn’t like the feeling I had when I got back in my brand new work car after 😛 ) Then todays joy was that its MOT was today and the only repairs consisted of cleaning the headlights due to poor image, which was expected given she’s not been driven or cleaned in many, many months!! Yes, a few advisories for tyres worn of edges, a tiny oil leak (forgot to ask where from, but guessing around the turbo) an advisory for it being “Smokey” (I think turbo oil seal has gone) and a cracked near side wing mirror. (I have a full door mirror replacement waiting in the wings, once I pull my finger out and contact the top bloke who has been very kindly sat on it for me since my heart op back last year 🤭) Not bad for a 18 year old motor

Been in my Kia Niro 2 (the newest one) since the end of October (I’ve got the hybrid version, not full electric) and done 7k miles in it…… it does have plenty of electric trickery…. So much so we’ve called it “Robot” (the registration number is the real reason for the name RO72VOP but still apt!) I’m not a fan of the ‘box myself. Feels more like an old-school auto box vs the modern DSG in the VAG’s. Does what it wants in manual mode and the engine very often will sit at 4k going up hills on motorways etc due to lack of grunt. Doesn’t make for a relaxing motorway journey if I am honest. I won’t put it in manual mode anymore as it’s so poo. Fuel economy sucks on a run, too. Did Bristol to Cornwall the other week for work with cruise set at 72 and managed 43mpg! I’ve found that on a motorway run it switches to electric charge mode often as the battery isn’t big enough to cope and needs frequent recharging. Superb fuel economy driving around Bristol city, which is where this hybrid is best used. Easily get 70mpg around town. Overall economy (calculated) is 53mpg, 54 shown on the dash trip computer. Got plenty more to say about it and had considered leaving a review but didn’t think there would be any interest 😛

When was the cambelt last done… could be the tensioner?

Could be some debris in the jet. Stick a pin in it, or remove the jet itself and soak it to see if performance improves. Might also be worth while pulling off the outlet pipe of the washer pump to make sure the gauze is not gummed up.

Do not buy the bottom one as it looks like you are going to be cutting away a lot of the crash bar, given the angle of the top connection to the ‘cooler. I’ve fitted an Airtec, which does also need cutting up the top part of the crash bar. Compare the two and you’ll get what I mean, and look through my build thread as there are pics showing how I went around it. As for fitting, it will all make sense when you take the front of your car is off. No guide needed really.

Not do dissimilar to the odd story here, too. I’m now really glad that I didn’t buckle to the pressure from Zee that I paid ~£170 for the express service

Apparently there is a 10 week turnaround for passport renewals…… got my new one today, 6 days after I started the process!

😱 Also didn’t see this post coming. What a shock. Can anyone tell me why these not nice things always happen to the good people 😔 You’ve been amazingly supportive, helped me lift my mood when low and beyond when it was needed, but I’ve never really been able to find the right words to show just how much thanks and gratitude I had for you (and others) So, If there is anything I can help, please, please let me know.

Didn’t risk it, stripped the head. But, it’s the car that keeps giving ….. injector 1 needed 6tn from a press to get it out! Now on the hunt for new injector. Why oh why didn’t the wife listen to her mechanic and scrap it 😞 Lesson learnt …. Never let my wife buy a car she loves as she won’t let it go.

Of course, but experience has taught me that it is usually the heater itself at fault and not the wiring when the code specifically mentions “heater”. No mention of “heater” in the code usually means it’s something other than the O2 sensor itself.

Actually, the P denotes that the fault is within the power train system, and going one step further, when the code relates to the heater element specifically it usually means that the O2 sensor itself is the issue and not the wiring.

Had a Director follow me round last Friday as I’m new to my role and we have Ofstead inspector due any day now. The joy proceeded the glowing feedback that I should walk the Ofstead inspection given what was seen last Friday…. Massive weight off my shoulders

White smoke usually means coolant is getting into the combustion chamber.

Yup, sounds starter to me too.

No need for shortened drop links, unless you’re at the very bottom, which I wouldn’t suggest.

Now for the fun part ….. getting the seal back on the piston and back in the calliper

They’re pressed in / picked out. No glue is used at all. I’ve broken a few on removal as they were stuck tight.

The two glow plugs that snapped off during removal Edit - managed to get one out no bother, but the heater element of the second one is stuck solid. Looks like it’s head off, or maybe leave it there and let it work itself loose as see what happens