Hi all finally picked up my Yeti just over a week ago its a 1.4 tsi se and i'm really enjoying it, however every car i have owned i like to upgrade the bulbs I am going with Philips X treme bulbs as they have always served me well!.

I have searched for drl replacement bulbs the P13W just checking on ebay and saw these:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-P13W-CREE-SUPER-BRIGHT-WHITE-DRL-16W-LED-CAR-LIGHT-BULB-FOG-INDICATOR-ETC-/110993709390?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19d7bd994e

I see the camaro bulbs do appear to work however they are quite expensive, anyone else actually tried these or similar?

Lots of previous discussion on here previously re these particular replacement bulbs. S you have stated, they are for the Chevrolet Camaro and a) will require resistors for the Yeti Canbus system and do not quite fit (or so others have stated). As far as I am aware, nobody has fitted LED DRLs bulbs without the resistors.

www.superskoda.com used to sell these, but it looks like they have now been withdrawn, but they still sell the expensive Hella kit around 350 euros.

Do a search on this site for DRL LED for more info.

These were the original LED DRL replacements which a few of us bought.

Not cheap and come with inline resistors. Excellent quick delivery though. http://lyxus.net/jiee (Google will translate for you!)

The apparently discontinued Superskoda DRLs also need resistors but the originally supplied bulbs were the wrong size. The replacements, which now seem to be no longer available were brighter than the Benzinfabrik ones. 1or 2 of us have those.

There are sets advertised which claim to be 'error free', but my experience of them is that they do throw a 'bulb out' warning, although someone on here claims that you may be able to get around that by starting the engine before the canbus check has completed? Doubtful myself about that!

Hello Guys

Yes it was me check Post LED lights for DRL They are still working fine

Another great improvement is changing the Interior lights to leds ordered from SuperSkoda

The map/reading lights are 2 small bulbs i sourced from ebay

2x (a pair) T10 501 W5W 5 LED SMD 5050 CAN BUS from HQ AUTOLIGHTINGUK

One important thing where people are going wrong is buying led lights and and not checking bulb lengths and brightness efficiency Lums

I think Ebay has an article on this somewhere

Internal lights are not on Canbus system

Thanks for the replies very helpful Kernow, looking at your thread would it be ok to install the leds without the resistors as your electrician implied? i suppose if you just start the car straight away instead of waiting for all the pre flight checks to happen maybe its just skipping that check maybe?!

Also had a mail to my inbox regarding the menzinfab kit - which would you suggest is best for the job and is it a diy job?

It all goes back to the watts load

What we found with the discontinued SuperSkoda leds was, if you fitted one side only led a canbus error appeared right away.

Fitting both bulbs the error took ages to find just leaving key ignition turned on not starting up.

This pointed to the fact it was just lucky these leds took just that more juice than Benzinfabrik ones.

Thats why they all come with resistors in case to make the canbus pretend the system is pulling the same load in as the old bulbs

I am a bit confused as to why you would want to upgrade DRL bulbs. They don't help you see in the dark because the headlights take over. Surely the DRLs provide enough light during the day?

It is aesthetics, pure and simple. Whiter LEDs are in vogue and look better than yellow-white filament bulbs. If there were some plug-and-play options I might do it but I can't be faffed with wiring in resistors or taking it on chance that I should avoid the important pre-start ECU check.

It is aesthetics, pure and simple. Whiter LEDs are in vogue and look better than yellow-white filament bulbs. If there were some plug-and-play options I might do it but I can't be faffed with wiring in resistors or taking it on chance that I should avoid the important pre-start ECU check.

Same here.

I think white led DRLs just add more style and look great from a distance.

As you notice more newer cars are being fitted with them

I fitted a set of 18 led DRLs, without resistors and get the lamp warning light, but as they were £5 a pair from Amazon, I'll put up with the warning light. I don't like the idea of putting in-line resistors in, especially as the bulbs alone are tricky to fit, given the restricted space for large hands.

HI, look here for best price & product

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Car-Bulbs-P13W-CREE-R5-7W-High-Power-Auto-LED-Head-Lights-Fog-Lamps-White-Red/659952147.html?src=i18n&af=i18n_it&isdl=y&tp1=button#googtrans%28en|it%29

All DRL led lamp on Yeti need resistors

Ciao

GY

Those look the same as the Camaro ones that didn't fit, plus they still need resistors to work!

They're at lot more expensive than the ones I bought for £5!

And they fit, but still need resistors to work.

Anyway this subject on LED DRL keeps on running and I still have not got it sorted out

I have the P13W LED lamps from ebay with resistors, have fitted them but the resistors get really HOT, now removed and original P13W replaced.

Trying to think of another way of doing it by leaving the original P13W lamps connected but covered by some alloy tube cut off and connecting the P13W LED lamps in parallel.

Anyone think this might be a plausible solution, I think I can get the P13W lamp holder from RS or Farnell and make a coupling lead up.

I sorted mine out - I turned them off :sun:

I think white led DRLs just add more style and look great from a distance.

In other words:

It is aesthetics, pure and simple.

I have the P13W LED lamps from ebay with resistors, have fitted them but the resistors get really HOT

That's because they're dumping the power that the Canbus thinks should be being consumed by the bulbs. It's a kludge, and delivers no practical benefit whatsoever - all "style" and zero substance. No-one with any kind of real engineering sensibility should allow themselves to have anything to do with it!

If you leave the original bulbs in place and add on LEDs then they are effectively being the resistors and guess what - they get REALLY hot too!