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Indicators Stopped working


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My Felicia 1.3mpi was stood for a couple of weeks, went to start it and flat battery - new 9 months ago. Charged it up all ok, went back to start it yesterday again flat, charged and noticed hazards only working on one side when checking lights all worked, indicators were working on both sides. This morning battery ok but neither hazards nor indicators working. Have changed relay, hazard switch, and indicator stalk from my known good supplies, no joy, fuses all ok.. Also noticed interior light not working so wondering if there is a power supply problem - anyone know which multiplug supplies hazard relay so I can test it? Thanks

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The cause may be corroded and dirty contacts, wiring which is chafed through or internal short:to earth in the components. Here is how to test:

Prerequisites: battery ok, fully charged.

With contact key off and all electrical loads switched off, remove battery earth cable and insert an ammeter between battery negative terminal and earth cable to check for leakage currents.

You shouldn't have current bigger than 25 mA.

If current is bigger, break the various circuits by removing the fuses one after the other

When current is lower than 25 mA, pinpoint and rectify fault in the circuit interrupted.

If no fault is found in the protected circuits, disconnect wiring at non-fused components, e.g. alternator, starter.

Edited by adurer
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hi there is your clock working on dash if so then interior light bulb has gone or fuse F15 as for indicators have you tried fuse 14 and 21 if not then i would say that its the hazard switch as the indicator stalk connects throw the hazard switch.black wire on hazard switch is power for indicators F21 and black/red is for the hazard power F14 both are 15amp fuses and the red wire goes to the relay in fuse box. the wireing is in the car loom and plug in to about 3 different plugs in fuse box as i striped a Slxi felicia as a doner car and stiped the loom down if you get stuck i am only in bedfordshire and can help you on this

ABS next to wire in and fit with my big breaks

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  • 3 years later...

I had this issue also I checked all the fuses and thought it was my relay I tried a second relay and still nothing it was my switch it had come loose and worked its way off the back luckily a relatively easy fix although steering wheel and dash had to be removed and now my clock has stopped working! Whe will it end?

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I had this issue also I checked all the fuses and thought it was my relay I tried a second relay and still nothing it was my switch it had come loose and worked its way off the back luckily a relatively easy fix although steering wheel and dash had to be removed and now my clock has stopped working! Whe will it end?

You will have to stay in line to express your "gratitude" to German manufacturer VDO. They produced the PCBs for the instrument cluster using the thinnest copper traces and the smallest quantity of tin for soldering the components. After so many years of operation, even disconnecting the back side connectors is enough to crack the tracks or the solder joints. In your case you will have to resolder the pins of the back side yellow 10-pin connector. The clock needs permanent +12V on pin 9 of that connector to work.

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