I did not invent it, not so clever. If you read enough crap about tuning you can find some gems there. It came from US race tuners. Two things it hangs on at.

Given that this is the right way to run an engine in, why on earth do the manufacturers recommend something entirely different.

Tony :think:

I am not saying it is right or wrong. Manufacturers recommend in their manuals the most fool proof way of not damaging the engine when new. Not necessarily running it in to get the best performance out of it. Perhaps due to the fact that it largely beyond driving abilities of an average driver. With high performance motors as this 1.4 twincharger this is even more important... I am not promoting it in any way, everybody can read widely available tuning literature and come to their own conclusions - I am currently reading EMU tuning book so full of half truths and omissions is frankly frightening. Luckily I only bought kindle edition for £3.5 and not the hard copy for £20 or something-that would annoy me a tad. Strangely it has 4.5 stars from readers lol.

What I wrote about were my findings, my experience of putting it into practice and the results I have now. Take it or leave it, up to you. Would welcome factual discussion in a separate thread if any takers present.

Manufacturers recommend in their manuals the most fool proof way of not damaging the engine when new.

Would welcome factual discussion in a separate thread if any takers present.

So you seem to imply that any other running in method may damage the engine?

Tony :think:

Not really. Also depends what that "other method" is. If it is redlining on cold engine then yes, it will damage it resulting in loss of performance etc. If it is idling for hours then yes, it will glaze the bore and do on. Manufacturer's method as per manual ensures the engine doesn't get damaged and will be all right. What I am saying is that you can do more if you are willing. Unlock some performance for nothing but the cost of fuel.

Scoobies produce less bhp per ltr of swept volume yet they have sometinh like 3000 miles recommended oil change interval...

Upto 2001 they were 7500 mile servicing and after that they were 10000 mile servicing.

The 1.6 Turbo in the BMW 1 Series and Mini Cooper S is on variable servicing and can go 20k miles between services.

Cheers

Lee

Thanks Lee, I thought there had rather frequent oil changes but wasn't sure how frequent and didn't have time to check.

Thanks Lee, I thought there had rather frequent oil changes but wasn't sure how frequent and didn't have time to check.

You may have been thinking of the Mitsubishi Evo, the earlier versions had a 4000 miles oil change schedule.

Cheers

Lee

Evo 8 had a 4500 mile oil change but it was on the diffs, not the engine.

Rachel (who was thinking of moving from Subaru at the time but chickened out)

Edited 27 April, 201313 yr by RachelNorfolk

Travelled another 300miles since last oil top up (2/3 the way up the hatched area) and oil is exactly in the same positions at 5,10,15 minutes after stopping.

Again very strange behaviour last week but all seems to be back to normal, hopefully it'll stay that way.

Not really. Also depends what that "other method" is. If it is redlining on cold engine then yes, it will damage it resulting in loss of performance etc. If it is idling for hours then yes, it will glaze the bore and do on. Manufacturer's method as per manual ensures the engine doesn't get damaged and will be all right. What I am saying is that you can do more if you are willing. Unlock some performance for nothing but the cost of fuel.

I think the problem I have is in deciding who is right from, the manufacturers, the AA, Honest John, or a well meaning guy on a car forum.

Never to be resolved, I fear, but thanks for contributing to the discussion.

Tony

Thing is it is not really me . I read some stuff, compared it with what I know and lots of other stuff I read, compared it with some of my own experiences and I drew some conclusions of my own which I wrote about here. Everybody is capable of making their own minds I believe .

It's like why on earth does it take manufacturer like VAG 12 months to produce an engine map and race tuners can have a much more powerful one in a week . Same applies to what manuals advice to do. Ron91 fuel, crap oil, harsh environ conditions - the lowest common denominator and worst case scenario is what they assume and produce their advice for. Unless there are specialty mapped and equipped vehicles for different countries being produced?

Evo 8 had a 4500 mile oil change but it was on the diffs, not the engine.

Rachel (who was thinking of moving from Subaru at the time but chickened out)

I was looking at buying a 6 some years ago.

According to Mitsubishi you do need an engine oil change every 4500k miles or 6 months, or at 3000 miles in severe use even on an 8.

http://www.lancerreg...46&d=1264115114

Cheers

Lee

Edited 27 April, 201313 yr by logiclee

Lee, looks it was Evo I must have had on my mind then!

My fav is Evo IX

Lee, looks it was Evo I must have had on my mind then!

My fav is Evo IX

Nah, evo 3 all the way.