Hi, this is my first post so I will give you Abit of a back ground. I have a black 55 plate vrs currently on about 75k, It came with slightly tinted rear windows and a miltek exhaust, I have fitted a cupra splitter and painted my chrome grill surround black aswell. Any way recently the car makes a funny high pitches noise when turbo really kicks in at 2500 rpm, could my turbo be on the way out or is it another boost leak as I have had 2 rubber pipes split in the 3 months of owning it. Also if the turbo is about to go then would it be benificial to put a pd150 turbo on it? Only problem is I would then need to put a fmic on when really I only wanted a remap as I do around 25k a year for work so wanted to keep it reliable but with a little more go than it is now. Cheers

If it sound like a police siren when you rev it then yes just google search turbo failure noise

Ok thanks. I'm guessing it will still be on the original turbo so should be due a new one about now with the mileage it's on. Do you think I would best off just putting a standard one on and having it remapped?

You will find that a lot of people say the siren noise means the end of your turbo..however a lot of people have had these type of noises for ages and had no problems.

Mine has a siren sound and has had for quite a while so i wouldnt worry unless it gets really bad or you start getting white/blue smoke on idle.

Mines has that noise but i have no boxes in the exhaust system so it will really emphasize this noise. Dont worry. Worry when your turbo goes BOOOOM!

Ps if you dont like the noise il av your milltek ;-)

Ok thanks. I'm guessing it will still be on the original turbo so should be due a new one about now with the mileage it's on.

My red car is on 128k and is still on it's original turbo after 90k of being remapped.

It is a bit whisltey but has never actually missed a beat.

The other half's black car is well under 60k but to the best educated guesses is now on it's 3rd turbo, having shat one in my hands before christmas simply accelrating up a hill.

It really is a lottery for how long a KKK turbo lasts.

I guess it's down to how paranoid you are, if you could cope with your car being off the road, and what you want to spend.

Do you think I would best off just putting a standard one on and having it remapped?

I bought a second hand KKK which had done 60k off a member on here for £120, another £100 for all the gaskets etc, and the car was back on the road in 2 days.

I have since "banked" another KKK turbo with similar mileage for a similar price, for when (not if) the red car goes pop.

That way it requires nothing more than taking the dead one off and puttnig a fresh one on.

Also if the turbo is about to go then would it be benificial to put a pd150 turbo on it?

The PD150's are Garrett units which are stronger than the KKK ones but as said you'd need a FMIC to get the most out of it AND need a remap AND the turbo would be more expensive to start with.

For me if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Remap it now to get your speed fix, and keep an eye out for a cheap second hand turbo on here for when you're goes pop (which of course it may not!)

***EDIT*** If you want more oomph you could always buy Xav's old PD130 hybrid?

The other half's black car is well under 60k but to the best educated guesses is now on it's 3rd turbo, having shat one in my hands before christmas simply accelrating up a hill.

You, sir, have a way with words!

From what I remember, listen for a dentist's drill, rather than just a whistle if its on its way out. But do have a check for hose-splits anyway as a matter of course - especially if you've had some previously.

Ps if you dont like the noise il av your milltek ;-)

You must be the 10th person to ask if I wanted to sell my exhaust haha

Hi, this is my first post so I will give you Abit of a back ground. I have a black 55 plate vrs currently on about 75k, It came with slightly tinted rear windows and a miltek exhaust, I have fitted a cupra splitter and painted my chrome grill surround black aswell. Any way recently the car makes a funny high pitches noise when turbo really kicks in at 2500 rpm, could my turbo be on the way out or is it another boost leak as I have had 2 rubber pipes split in the 3 months of owning it. Also if the turbo is about to go then would it be benificial to put a pd150 turbo on it? Only problem is I would then need to put a fmic on when really I only wanted a remap as I do around 25k a year for work so wanted to keep it reliable but with a little more go than it is now. Cheers

There are a few ways to detect turbo failure, which have been covered. I found that when the turbo in my 2003 Ibiza 130bhp tdi went, it did so with a surge in power and a **** load of reek!

If there is a whine or groan, as opposed to a whistle then it maybe on its way. Test it by removing the intake hose and watch the impeller spin as someone else revs. You might need a borescope or mirror. I've used that technique a few times and hasn't let me down yet.

I've acquired a garrett t27 from a spare engine from work which I'm sure was a Astra cdti 150 will this work or can it be made to work? As before we were saying that a FMIC would help out with putting a larger turbo on I will be going down that route, as for pipe work it should be easy as a good friend of mine owns his own fabrication company in York and makes roll cages, exhausts, manifolds, painting, body work any sort of car related things really. I would defiantly recommend him too after spending thousands with him building my old rally car. He has said that he would be happy to make egr delete pipes, intercooler pipe work and Any thing we need for our cars if any one would be interested

Cheers matt

Bump!

I've acquired a garrett t27 from a spare engine from work which I'm sure was a Astra cdti 150 will this work or can it be made to work? As before we were saying that a FMIC would help out with putting a larger turbo on I will be going down that route, as for pipe work it should be easy as a good friend of mine owns his own fabrication company in York and makes roll cages, exhausts, manifolds, painting, body work any sort of car related things really. I would defiantly recommend him too after spending thousands with him building my old rally car. He has said that he would be happy to make egr delete pipes, intercooler pipe work and Any thing we need for our cars if any one would be interested

Cheers matt

Hey Matt,

I'm not sure how you're getting on with this, but I thought I'd share the weekends experience with a Focus 1.6 tdci. The long and short of it all the turbo has failed, causing severe lack of power and when at operating temperature there is a light sounding metallic rattle coming from it.

After I removed the air intake hose from the turbo, I could be sure of my thoughts and see the turbine rattle about due to the bearing collapsing.

Reason I thought I'd mention this because they're wasn't any other symptom like excessive exhaust gases (reek) or oil depositary through the exhaust. it's covered 78k miles but there is also diesel in the sump, which points to the direction of a failed injector seal which has probably been the root cause.

Hope this might shed some light on your process of elimination, and if in doubt just remove the intake hose from the turbo (i'd wear protective glasses for that) and get someone to rev it up to spool the turbo. Should spin freely if it's working.

Rite here we are again with the turbo problems! Last week was driving, came onto a round-a-bout in 3rd started to open throttle and there was no boost however the exhaust went Lauder, no leaking boost hissing noise or anything so I think it actuator had stuck open?? Was driving again today and same happened again but no boost in 1st, 2nd then only boosts in 3rd after about 2500rmp boosts fine in 4th, 5th and 6th but when it doesn't boost in 1st and 2nd like when your in traffic the brake pedal is really had like when you turn and engine off while the cars rolling and the pedal being hard then due to vacume for the servo. This car is really starting to do my head in now, is the turbo going? Why would the actuator stick? Why would this happen with the brakes if the cars running? Does the little box on the top left of the engine bay with all the vac pipes on have anything to do with all this? Please help

Thanks matt