Dear Skodians

Measured my car on a Dynapack last week to check how much gain I got from the GIAC EXTREME tune vs my Old GIAC K04 tune and wanted to share the numbers.

Car has done 100,000 KM

Rods/rings/Bearings were done 8,000 KM ago but I kept the original Pistons and camshaft.

Car is running 98 Ron fuel + W/M Injection

• Note: GIAC will only provide the extreme tune to cars with upgraded Piston Rods and I had to drop in Integrated rod's before they agreed to provide me with the tune.
  
• Note: Small Jump at 6500 RPM is related to Dyno Calibration and you can see that the logs are perfect.
  
• Note: For those of you who say Dynapack is optimistic I say you are probably right, however we measured a stock Audi S3 on it a day before and it made 245WHP so I guess this one is ~accurate, besides I always measured my car on this Dyno so it's the only way I could do the comparison.
  

Engine setup:

1. Audi S3 K04 Turbo Conversion
   
2. Audi S3 Injectors
   
3. Audi S3 FMIC
   
4. Forge Twicooler
   
5. APR HPFP
   
6. E&A LPFP
   
7. E&A 3" Catless Down-pipe
   
8. APR 3" Catback
   
9. DXD Stage 2 Daily Clutch Kit
   
10. ECS Lightweight Pulley Kit
    
11. Integrated engineering Drop-in Piston Rods
    
12. Stock Pistons
    
13. Stock Rev A camshaft
    
14. BCS 3" CAI
    
15. BSH PCV Delete kit
    
16. R8 Coil Pack
    
17. Forge K04 Wategate (yellow spring)
    
18. Snow Performance Stage 2 W/M Injection (Boost)
    

Dyno:

Log:

1. Full Boost at 2520 RPM
   
2. Intake temp going down through the rev due to Twincooler and W/M Injection
   
3. Engine holds 2500 mbar (22 PSI) at 6000 RPM
   
4. 0 timing correction
   

Previous Dyno before Extreme tune and with stock rods: 335 WHP and 45 Kg/m (325 lb/ft):

Stock Audi S3 Dyno from a day before (for comparison):

Enjoy

Edited 5 May, 201313 yr by Petelking

i would of used the money to by an S3

Not really an Audi type myself

And getting the S3 to this level would cost a lot more...

Nice power curves there. I'm surprised no diff in list of modifications. You must have the biggest grin this side of a super car

Not really an Audi type myself

And getting the S3 to this level would cost a lot more...

but it would mean that more of that power was useable, more of the time. Big figures for a fwd car, must be a hoot once it does hook up.

That's a nice smooth graph, I bet you're well pleased. I've got a K04 conversion on stock internals with stock airbox and no water meth but interestingly it only pulls 11GS peak flow less than yours.....

That's a nice smooth graph, I bet you're well pleased. I've got a K04 conversion on stock internals with stock airbox and no water meth but interestingly it only pulls 11GS peak flow less than yours.....

This is a 3" intake, It reads a lot lower than the 2.75" stock size intake and it's mandatory for this tune to work.

No diff, that's the next mod after I'll change the engine mounts to FR3's but the car also has the following mods that I didn't list:

Bilstein B8 shocks

Eibach prokit springs

KW adjustable ARB kit

WALK - best mod ever!!!

Powerflex race application dogbone mounts front and rear and a full powerflex kit on the rest of the car.

R32 brakes with EBC sloted disks and yellow stuff pads.

Diff is a must and its gonna happen soon but I have to say current setup is surprisingly good at putting down the power as long as I dont just floor it like crazy, software is also very good with regards to throttle calibration and the power is quaint manageable.

Edited 5 May, 201313 yr by Petelking

This is a 3" intake, It reads a lot lower than the 2.75" stock size intake and it's mandatory for this tune to work.

Ahh that makes sense.

What rings did you use?

Edit: aren't most aftermarket intakes that size? My dbilas gives the same MAF readings as stock box.

As far as I know all but BCS and VF are 2.75 at the MAF housing or you would get very low MAF readings and your mixture would go lean.

I'd say a diff is essential as are engine mounts. Engine mounts give an impressive traction gain

Agreed.

What rings did you use?

Sorry for missing this, Stock vw BWA rings.

Sorry for missing this, Stock vw BWA rings.

I hope they last then :S

There have been a few cases of the rings blowing off before the con rods go. That's one thing that worries me about using water meth.

The car was running good numbers with stock rings before and they actually looked pretty decent when I took them off.

I rebuilt the engine for the tune, I was running water meth for over 60,000 km with 0 issues.

Don't fear water meth, been running it on my 2 cars in the past 5 years and they were always top notch when it came to the engine.

My old 2008 ibiza cupra is still with its stock original engine with a gt3076 and 450whp and it was running water meth a month after I picked it up from the dealer.

Edited 6 May, 201313 yr by Petelking

Looks like I'll have to fit my kit then

The main reason I'd want it for is to keep the valves clean and try get the timing pull down.

Go for it!

I want water meth but have put it off due to sorting my transmission first. I'm saving the pennies so watch this space

I have some suggestions on W/M if you want to hear from my experience:

Don't be dazzled by the expensive kits, these are extremely difficult to setup and maintain and will rarely produce a better result in cars that use a wideband lambda.

Get a simple stage 2 boost based kit, they work great and very easy to install and maintain.

Don't install the tank in the engine compartment, while it does provide a clean look, it makes the kit less effective because the mixture gets worm.

Make sure there is easy access to the tank and that it's easy to top up and measure how full it is.

Install the nozzle as close as possible to your throttle body and again in an easily accessible place, nozzles need cleaning every 10,000 miles or so and installing them in an easily accessible place will slso help spot leaks if you ever encounter them (never happened to me but I heard stories)

Install the pressure valve or solenoid as close as possible to the nozzle, this will prevent over-spraying when you stop boosting as there is still pressure in the pipes even when the pump stops.

Use a 50/50 mixture in mass which means ~60% meth and ~40% water in volume.

Use latex gloves when mixing the meth and water, that **** will make you blind if you are exposed to large quantities of it.

Don't drink meth, it can kill you :lol:

My 2 shekels anyway

Edited 7 May, 201313 yr by Petelking

I've got the 2 stage devils own boost based kit with a tank to fit in the boot. I'll be fitting a throttle body spacer and installing the meth into that to prevent the plastic throttle body slide swelling. Is that what you've got petelking?

I run a mixed kit.

Snow performance 2 stage boost based controller

Labonte motorsport pump

Devils own 2 gallon sumptank

Reason for the mix is I was initially running a fancy labonte stage 3+ kit that was over elaborate and gave me a lot of trouble (but was insanely cool) and when the controller broke down for the 3rd time I kept the pump and just got a simple 2 stage controller, been trouble free ever since!

The install setup you mentioned is the perfect way to do it.

Edited 7 May, 201313 yr by Petelking

I run a mixed kit.

Snow performance 2 stage boost based controller

Labonte motorsport pump

Devils own 2 gallon sumptank

Reason for the mix is I was initially running a fancy labonte stage 3+ kit that was over elaborate and gave me a lot of trouble (but was insanely cool) and when the controller broke down for the 3rd time I kept the pump and just got a simple 2 stage controller, been trouble free ever since!

The install setup you mentioned is the perfect way to do it.

Are you running it through a throttle spacer?

http://www.revohardware.com/p/56/revo-integrated-throttle-pipe-for-vw-golf-mk5-20t-fsi

No I located it on the plastic pipe going up to the throttle.

Im getting the cts turbo pipe soon and then plan to relocate.

Edited 8 May, 201313 yr by Petelking