My 2 penneth:

Always replace 4 if possible for consistancy and to avoid winding-up diffs on quattros etc.

Rotate if necessary to equalise remaining tread with a view to changing all 4 tyres later.

On a 2WD I personally put the new tyres on the drive axle. For a FWD car, I know that means I would put them on the front (which I have done in the past), but when accelerating or braking I prefer to have more grip at the front - especially in the wet where they will be are more effective at clearing water for the rear have an easier path. It was for this reason that Porsche used to recommend a Pirelli setup with directionals on the front and asymetrics on the rear.

This may fly in the face of the perceived wisdom of the tyre industry, but having worked in that industry myself (not as a fitter) I'm more interested in my own tyres than the average Joe Bloggs is in his, so probably check them a lot more often.I have experienced the back end letting go. It used to be a characteristic of 205 GTIs, and I learned to live with it. My first ever car was RWD, and that let go big time on a roundabout, possibly as a result of a diesel spill or possibly because it was my first car and my relative inexperience of RWD. Now I come to think of it, it must have been the go-faster stripes...

It's important that go-faster stripes are fitted to the front not the rear.

Although I prefer body-coloured "stealth" go-faster stripes anyway, which work just as well but are less conspicuous.

It happens !!

My other car is RWD with 490 bhp, the rear tyres are wider than the front so cant be swapped & at around 8-10K to a set of rears ( I don't run them right down) I often find myself with less tread on the back, Im aware of what might happen & in 5 years of ownership I have been caught out twice unawares when hitting standing water, both times at night, once relatively slowly on a small roundabout which resulted in a slide to about 30 degrees, the other at just into 3 figures on a dead straight road going up hill ( shouldn't have been standing ) water but I came across a small river running diagonally across the road & the rear just stepped out, thankfully a dual carriageway & I needed all of it plus a bit to regain the car, had there been a car beside me it would have been a different story. On the other cars its always best on the rear & once the fronts are worn its new rears & move the others forward.

As with all things its personal choice & yes we all think we can drive but when you are caught unawares the laws of physics cant be changed & you have to hope a little of your skill & a large helping of lady luck will guide you through, most times it will & you feel really proud of your driving skills but you cant guarantee you always will be so lucky. If fitting better tyres on the rear reduces risk then I class that as part of driving skill. ie using your head to reduce risk so you can drive more safely & if you wish quicker

An important factor to consider. Apart from cases where you are cornering like Ms Butler-Henderson in the wet, a police rapid-response, or an F1 driver. Many accidents happen when you are braking trying to avoid hitting something in front of you. In that case you defintely want more grip on the front.

An important factor to consider. Apart from cases where you are cornering like Ms Butler-Henderson in the wet, a police rapid-response, or an F1 driver. Many accidents happen when you are braking trying to avoid hitting something in front of you. In that case you defintely want more grip on the front.

I suppose the obvious solution is equal grip front & rear at all times, probably a Chieftan Tank, incredible traction & no need to brake either just drive over whoevers in front !!

Its a valid point.

Not everybody drives a 450bhp monster.

Its a valid point.

Not everybody drives a 490bhp monster.

Neither do I at the moment, managed to snap the crankshaft & twist the block, Piggy bank about to take a big hit, the front pulley started to break up ( weighs 3.5 Kilos ) threw the crank out of Balance & it snapped, opened the bonnet to find the front pulley & belts laying in the under tray & lots of black stuff coming out the front of the engine from the newly formed inspection hole, I could even see the timing chain :sweat: :sweat:

Need a scrap lump to start the rebuild as its not a stock lump

Edited 26 June, 201312 yr by Stuart_J

That will teach you.

Best tyres on the front then?

Another point to consider. Standing water is about the only road condition when depth of tread and size of tread gaps determine grip or lack thereof.

That will teach you.

Best tyres on the front then?

4 bald at the moment would be fine

I've not long had my fronts changed by the dealer i bought the car from and the car was pulling to the left quite badly. Apparently things such as tracking and geometry was unheard of in skoda's garage and isn't a check that was offered. and it's cost me £100 to get the bloody lot sorted independently. The sticky back on the wheel weights were left there too after they removed them so the the alloys now collect brake dust on the old backings.What would get these off?

Surely they know that a high performance car is only as good as the grip and handling to make it do the job properly?

Should've rotated them but i think that was aboave and beyond the garage nippers task book.......