Skip to content

How To: Injector Wire tuck and hard line delete on inlet manifold

Featured Replies

Hi Folks

Having done various deletes over the last few years this one is likely to be the last job regarding delete mods(he says lol)

Here is what I have done up till now.

SAI , N249, N112 delete

http://www.briskoda....d-n112-removal/

Evap and Breather simplification

http://www.briskoda....simplification/

Charcoal Canister delete mod

http://www.briskoda....ter-delete-mod/

OCC DIY Install

http://www.briskoda....-guide-install/

So Lastly i am doing a Injector wire tuck to route wires under the inlet manifold and also remove the water overflow hardline so to make smoother looking inlet.

First issue, is to do this job you will either need to split apart each set of injector wires or add extra length of wires to the existing loom to get the extra length needed to come up from underneath Inlet manifold instead of the more existing direct fit that the std route of wiring takes

You will also need to extend the inlet manifold temp sensor wires

Having viewed some VW forums on this they did not need to do this, but for the VRS no way will the Injector / temp sensor wires have enough length to fit.

I could not be bothered to strip down loom removing all tape to check if i could pull more wires through an from what i could see the only option is to extend wires.

I guess you could hide wires under the fuel rail and thus keep wiring above inlet and this way you would not need to extend wires, but i wanted cleanest option.

This is not as bad as it sounds I made up 4 inch lengths for the Injectors and Inlet temp sensors

Here goes:

You are going to need to unplug the following parts to get the loom out from the right hand side of Inlet Manifold

Intercooler air/temp sensor

Throttle position Sensor

Cam Position Sensor

Knock Sensor

Inlet Temp Sensor

4 x Injectors

You can see that the loom is grouped from teh right hand side of Inlet manifold, so the aim is to get the loom out from that join.

2013-06-24171608_zps04e040b6.jpg

Start by unclipping the plastic cable runner holding injector wires in place

2013-06-23181727_zpsa9c8b12a.jpg

Remove the Injector Sensors by pressing in the side metal clips(they will be connected to a plastic bracket 2 injectors per bracket)

2013-06-23183516_zps09efcfbc.jpg

2013-06-23183518_zpsafb46a63.jpg

Unplug Inlet temp Sensor

2013-06-23183527_zps9d1a9661.jpg

Then you can pull off wiring from the plastic cable runner and maneuver the runner off the Injector rail and off the Inlet manifold

2013-06-23183624_zps74757b5b.jpg

Unplug Intercooler sensor(mine is in slightly different place as have a FMIC)

2013-06-24171002_zps7442982f.jpg

Unplug Throttle position sensor

2013-06-24171529_zps6aa7d6f4.jpg

Unplug Cam position Sensor

2013-06-24171537_zps4cb9abc8.jpg

2013-06-24171732_zps22f1d7a4.jpg

Unplug Knock sensor

To get to this remove engine plastic and metal bracket(lot easier for me coz i removed all the other stuff as delete mods so the metal bracket was only there to allow engine front plastic cover to be re fitted after deletes.

2013-06-24171555_zps4f363b6b.jpg

Now you can pull out the loom from right hand side of Inlet

2013-06-24172233_zps10f14b54.jpg

I then went about extending the wires as I explained earlier. Lucking I had a very good soldering iron that is temp adjustable to be able to solder outside and get good solder join to the extend wires and loom. I used heat shrink to cover the joins and then wrapped back up in tape.

Next I focused on removing the hard line

2013-06-24173709_zps078a8286.jpg

It is held in with 2 allen bolts

Instead of using a full replacement hose from right hand side to water expansion tank, I wanted to keep the nice flow of original hose on left hand side(may update when i do fuel hoses to steel braided lines)

left side

2013-06-24173050_zpsa36b35eb.jpg

right side

2013-06-24181201_zpsc45eef3a.jpg

So I got a 8mm hose joiner and a spare length of hose

2013-06-24173357_zps98dce90b.jpg

2013-06-24173504_zpse0d2685e.jpg

2013-06-24180831_zps553e589c.jpg

That is it now all that is left is route loom under Inlet manifold and replug sensors and hope i wired up ok

Job done. and it started .

Finished job, after a little polish (again)

2013-06-26184434_zps2e219821.jpg

2013-06-26184338_zpscca05ccf.jpg

2013-06-26184324_zps74cd2136.jpg

2013-06-25184215_zps1f4149a4.jpg

2013-06-26184321_zps32f0947a.jpg

2013-06-26184346_zpsfa27baea.jpg

2013-06-25184329_zps6f3a47ba.jpg

2013-06-26184430_zps557515b7.jpg

Nice job, looks clean & tidy now. How long did it take start to finish?

  • Author
Nice job, looks clean & tidy now. How long did it take start to finish?

Cheers

Took me approx 2 hours but I did stop to pick up spare soldering iron and also took time cleaning parts.

As I have SAI and other deletes was easy to get to the sensors so you may want to factor in some extra time messing to get to stuff.

Sent from my Samsung S3

  • 3 months later...

Looks very nice mate!

 

I've been browsing the tech guides and found this one and have read a bit of your other post and will be the first to admit it doesn't mean much to me!

 

However my mechanic cousin and his VAG mad colleges were telling me about the best thing to do my octy was breather mod's like yours.

 

So my question is what sort of gain or advantage do all those mods have on a basic non modified petrol engine?

 

Cheers

  • Author

Looks very nice mate!

 

I've been browsing the tech guides and found this one and have read a bit of your other post and will be the first to admit it doesn't mean much to me!

 

However my mechanic cousin and his VAG mad colleges were telling me about the best thing to do my octy was breather mod's like yours.

 

So my question is what sort of gain or advantage do all those mods have on a basic non modified petrol engine?

 

Cheers

 

Hi buddy, The cleaning up of breathers and removing/deleting stuff is not really a performance gain but a way of tidying up the engine bay but can give a better smoother running as a lot of the breather system and pipework is not needed and less pipework means less to split and go wrong. These turbo VAG group cars do suffer from blocked breathers, split pipes that can effect boost and running so in my mind not a bad thing to do.

 

I have removed most if not all what I could over the past years as well as removing the SAI system, N249, N112, EVAP and so on. Plus added a oil catch can to keep oil clean and breather system clean.

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.