Im looking at getting a mk1 1.8t vrs within the next month or so and was wondering what sort of first mods you guys would recommend?

I've seen a bit about removing the sai. Is it worth while even with a standard car?

Also the same with the forge 007 diverter valve?

And has anyone used Job coilovers and are they any good?

Im in bromley if anyone is local and fancys popping over too.

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I believe from my time knocking around the forum, and reading the threads that pop up,

an EGR blank, Mr Muscle Oven cleaner turbo wash, and a handy remap are some good places to start

oh and a RARB... that one is very popular... and Polybushing throughout...

 

 

PS welcome to the Brisky  neighbourhood

Forgot the most critical one...

 

Silicone sealing the gap along the bottom of the rear windscreen to  stop   reduce  the rain water running into the boot and rear speakers...

Edited 2 July, 201312 yr by mac11irl

The vrs doesn't have either a EGR valve or a VNT turbo to need cleaning with mr muscle

Edited 2 July, 201312 yr by Frisco

First things to do.

Get cheap code reader to scan for codes to give you an idea of any potential issues.

Clean throttle body. Check for vac leaks and make sure it has had the coilpacks replaced under recall if needed.

Then mods wise sort yourself out a rear arb and remap.

if i ever get mine running long enough ill be up your way soon so can show mine fairly modded

Remap & RARB are good starting point. If you want diagnostics get a OBDII cable off fleabay & VCDS/Vagcom as code readers are a waste of money IMO.

Forge 007 is not a performance upgrade, just more reliable than the OEM DV, which are prone to failure after 50k or so however an OEM DV is only £25 so you could buy 4 for the price of a Forge.

Edited 3 July, 201312 yr by pauldazzle

if i ever get mine running long enough ill be up your way soon so can show mine fairly modded

cool cheers mate. let me know whenever that'll be lol

Remap & RARB are good starting point. If you want diagnostics get a OBDII cable off fleabay & VCDS/Vagcom as code readers are a waste of money IMO.

Forge 007 is not a performance upgrade, just more reliable than the OEM DV, which are prone to failure after 50k or so however an OEM DV is only £25 so you could buy 4 for the price of a Forge.

ok ill keep that in mind

 

i have a scanguage II in the mondy at the moment but its coming out when i sell it, same with a boost gauge

I'm local to you and would be happy to take you for a drive in my one. I think it has been modified quite well ! I can also advise and source tuning items that you may require. Cheers Pete.

First critical advise

 

STAY AWAY FROM THIS FORUM.....

 

It will drain your pockets.........

 

Glad i did not get into the modding bug................

I'm local to you and would be happy to take you for a drive in my one. I think it has been modified quite well ! I can also advise and source tuning items that you may require. Cheers Pete.

 

cool cheers pete. ill give you a shout next week

 

 

First critical advise

 

STAY AWAY FROM THIS FORUM.....

 

It will drain your pockets.........

 

Glad i did not get into the modding bug................

 

yeah right. ive looked at some of your guides on how to keep it "standard"

Best advise listen to people that have been there and done it and tried many parts along the way

Expensive doesn't mean good and uprated parts are sometimes worse than oem parts ;-)

Dv doesn't need an uprated part oem is best for example ;-)

Ebay fmic work 10x better than the mega expensive forge or pro alloy units

The down pipe up to the cat is the only part of the exhaust that is restrictive

If removing Sai pump fit resistors even if mapped out or fuel trims don't adjust

Good services makes the biggest difference

cool cheers.

 

 

ill be doing a full service and cambelt change when i have the car anyway as i work for vw so can get the bits cheap from tps ;D

Ebay fmic work 10x better than the mega expensive forge or pro alloy units

 

 

??????

Large ebay cooler with custom 2.5 inch pipe work

Is the only way to push these setups ;-)

Linky?

First, decent service like Clive said. Make sure everything is working as it should be.

 

Decent rear anti roll bar is an absolute must. Handling needs more work than anything else on the vRS, but apart from dreadful understeer and crappy acceleration through corners they are very well behaved.

 

Decent re-map from a Shark dealer, or specialist tuners like R-tech is more than enough of a performance upgrade for most people, but everything needs to be tip-top first, or you'll be wasting money.

 

Polybushing does take a little slop out, but not 100% essential, although dogbone can make a difference towards putting the power down (as will decent suspension, which is another area that the standard vRS lacks)

 

For those that have done all this, and uprated the suspension, many then go on to bigger stoppers, and bigger power. Personally, I think at this point, a decent LSD will make a more appreciable difference to the overall performance, but I guess it all depends on whether you like drag racing, or the twisties.

 

 

Oh and most importantly, if you replace any ball joints, drop links, trackrod ends etc., stick with OEM (Lemforder) as aftermarket parts are really crap. Even those that say they are reinforced.

Large ebay cooler with custom 2.5 inch pipe work

Is the only way to push these setups ;-)

 

So i'll see gains if I swap my Pro-Alloy for a Toyosports then ?

Yes better flow from the single pass :-)

And lower Intake temps for longer not effected as quick with heat soak

Has to be the large cooler with 2.5 inch pipe work

Yes better flow from the single pass :-)

And lower Intake temps for longer not effected as quick with heat soak

Has to be the large cooler with 2.5 inch pipe work

 

Fair enough, my Pro-Alloy has been doing ok upto now, so i'll stick with it.

 

I know the Toyosports are ok coolers as I used 1 on my Evo in the end, but I think with the vrs, whatever I might gain I will loose with carrying around the extra half a ton on the nose lol.

I've got a toyosports single pass intercooler on mine. Yesterday according to torque my intake temp whilst in traffic was 50oc, on boost it quickly went down to 30oc. Not bad as the outside temp was 28oc according to the dash. Unfortunately I forgot to grab a screen shot on my phone :(

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My oe side mount sounds about the same as that lol.

Just a shade higher but not much.