I have called 2 main dealers, GSF and Euro's and explained what part I am after but nobody has a clue what I am talking about!  I am wanting to replace as many worn parts as poss' before I have her re-mapped, so today I ordered a new green temp sender  I said I am in need of a 'diversion valve' and explained it was very much like a dump valve but comes as standard.....Not one person had a clue what I am meaning!  Any ideas on the part number of a standard vRS diversion valve, it is the part that is just like a dump valve only it does not make that woooosh noise!!

Am i right in saying that it is also called a Recirculation Valve?

 

06a145710p

one of these (need to check part numbers) but it will work as its for the 20v.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SKODA-SEAT-AUDI-VW-DIVERTER-DUMP-VALVE-06A145710N-/320872425541?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AGolf&hash=item4ab57ca845

 

or these which are aftermarket and can be rebuilt if required

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A3-A4-A6-TT-S3-1-8T-RECIRCULATING-DIVERTER-DUMP-VALVE-RECIR-/380446103670?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item58945ad876

Am i right in saying that it is also called a Recirculation Valve?

 

06a145710p

 

Yes if you had said Divertor Valve they would of got it(i think) 

Hmmm im sure i have my old one lurking somewhere

I beleve i seen it the other day as i thought "ooo diverter valve" lol

Prob came off after a handful of miles lol

Prob came off after a handful of miles lol

 

your car has a such a low mileage you couldve taken it off yesterday and it would still only be a handful of miles! 

Yes if you had said Divertor Valve they would of got it(i think) 

 

 

you would think they could work it out from what he said, so i wouldn't hold out on them knowing!!!

one of these (need to check part numbers) but it will work as its for the 20v.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SKODA-SEAT-AUDI-VW-DIVERTER-DUMP-VALVE-06A145710N-/320872425541?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&fits=Model%3AGolf&hash=item4ab57ca845

 

or these which are aftermarket and can be rebuilt if required

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A3-A4-A6-TT-S3-1-8T-RECIRCULATING-DIVERTER-DUMP-VALVE-RECIR-/380446103670?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item58945ad876

 

Thanks mate.

 

Which one would be best?

no probs, well this is a bit of a can of worms, some say stock, others say upgrade. Most tuned cars tend to have the ally ones, the forge ones are nice but cost about 3 times as much, the cheaper ones are just a copy. Compbrake do/did them too if you fancy a name.

Mines got a cheapo £35 ebay one. Admittedly the seal broke up after no time at all but i overengineed a new seal and its been peachy

Sent from my iPhone 4s

I'm sorry for off topc,but what kind of symptoms a bad DV can give?

They can leak boost. Causing you to be down on power. You only want them to open when needed. They are controlled by the N249/N75?????? Valve and a common mod is to just have it operate off the inlet manifold vacuum.

Don't buy a so called uprated DV, other than the fact they can be serviced (which quite useful) they are IMO a waist of money, and non I've tried work better than OEM. 

 

If you order a new OEM DV you will find the part number has changed and so has the supplier (from Bosch to Kayser).

 

The new part number for the Kayser DV is 06A 145 710N.

 

Its supposed to be an uprated version of the original Bosch DV and fitted with a stronger diaphragm and spring and is now fitted as standard across the VAG range.

 

If you check out the Kayser web site they make some very bold claims about this valves strength and reliability ie; its suitable for modified cars up to stage 3.

 

I cant confirm if the above is true or not but what I do know for fact is it works very well on my own 1.8t which boosts to 1.55 bar and recorded 247bhp (peak) last time I took a wrong turn and ended up on some rollers.

 

Bill.

Don't buy a so called uprated DV, other than the fact they can be serviced (which quite useful) they are IMO a waist of money, and non I've tried work better than OEM. 

 

I would be intrested to hear why you say this, Can PM me if you want (keep the thread clean)

 

Servicable was the main reason why i fitted mine but to say they are a waste of money is pretty bold.

(Sorry to be a G.Nazi, waist is what your trowsers are held up by)

But the forge ones are shiny

Mmmmm

I'll hunt if u require a valve mate

I wont want £39 for it lol

I seen it recently unless im going mad

I would be intrested to hear why you say this, Can PM me if you want (keep the thread clean)

 

I made my own test rig years ago to test DV's for response/reaction time and leakage.

 

It was made in such a way that two valves could be tested at the same time ie OEM against another.

 

In every test I carried out the OEM valves performance could not be improved upon, and that was the old Bosch valve. 

 

Also, on my own car the N75 duty cycle reduced when I changed back from a 007P (fitted with a yellow spring) to a new OEM Kayser DV, which tells me what I already knew from the bench tests I carried out..... some so called uprated DV's leak past the exhaust port. 

 

Bill

Yeah the 007 ive heard alot of talk about leaking

I fancy a 008 now looks funky and meant to be better

But little birdies have mentioned the best forge valve apparently is the 006 if u can get one

I made my own test rig years ago to test DV's for response/reaction time and leakage.

 

It was made in such a way that two valves could be tested at the same time ie OEM against another.

 

In every test I carried out the OEM valves performance could not be improved upon, and that was the old Bosch valve. 

 

Also, on my own car the N75 duty cycle reduced when I changed back from a 007P (fitted with a yellow spring) to a new OEM Kayser DV, which tells me what I already knew from the bench tests I carried out..... some so called uprated DV's leak past the exhaust port. 

 

Bill

 

I suppose it is all dependant on what you think the 'uprated' DV's are for, I would imagine a lot of people are stuck in the idea that becuase it is 'uprated' it will give them performace gains, the basic design is the same between the 2 isnt it? so in effect in purchasing a 007P you are only getting a stronger unit (metal over plastic).

 

The other benifits i knew over the std unit where:

 a. Servicable item

 b. Adaptable with Differnt spring rates/Washers for different power cars

 

And a. is the reason i fitted mine:

 

i know it may seem like i am just repeating what you say but to just come to the conclusion that the 007P unit is Crap and to tell people not to bother is a little to biased, If they want to take advantage of the 3 reasons to purchase one then go ahead.

After reading many ppl on her say not to bother after i fitted mine, this has not made me want to go back to OEM and it sure as hell should not deter anyone thinking to go and get one for the 3 reasons above.

 

It is intersting to hear you say they leak past the port (sorry not 100% sure where you mean by the Zorst port)? did your tests ever prove where the leak was? surely if this is the case then there is still room for improvement?

I cant think of anything which has ever been made which has been Perfect and the whole unit has ever changed in some way since it was first built.

I've always found it baffling why/how the diverter valve has become such a fashion item

 

 

 

The other benifits i knew over the std unit where:

 a. Servicable item

 b. Adaptable with Differnt spring rates/Washers for different power cars

 

 

c. longer duty cycle of a spring valve vs plastic diaphragm

 

Which is why mine were changed, at the same time as the plastic to metal impaler doobrey

I've always found it baffling why/how the diverter valve has become such a fashion item

 

Shiny  we like shiny

 

May i ask as i dont know, I see you guys ref to 'Duty Cycle'..... Whats this? is this the cycle of the N75 telling the valve to open and when to close it?

Apparently there was a batch of 007 that did leak, but now revamped and sorted

But that said the valve to want now is a shiny 008 isnt it

My forge does being shiny much better than my old plastic one

duty cycle means the number of operating cycles a bit of kit can do before it fails

 

eg the number of times the valve can open and shut before failing through wear and tear

My forge does being shiny much better than my old plastic one

 

But aparently OEM is the way to go isnt it? so the plastic is the new shiny?

 

duty cycle means the number of operating cycles a bit of kit can do before it fails

 

eg the number of times the valve can open and shut before failing through wear and tear

 

Got ya! Thank you. (sorry a google showed an N75 has a duty cycle controlling the Valve position)

Just done a little google.

 

aparently the valve is known for said leak and can be fixed with Valve lapping paste (just like lapping a Cylender head valve in).

 

Might look into this for the next service.

Pah :p plastic

Shiny shiny

Or it would be plastic happy people shinning ....

Wait a minute..... There is a rise in plastic looking people ...........

Oh nooooooooooo lol