So my vRS has now decided to start stalling under light loads when bringing the clutch pedal to the bite point in first gear. It done it first merging on to a roundabout which caused a bum clenching situation where my car was halfway on to the roundabout. I thought that I had just been an idiot and somehow managed to stall my car but I didn't think that I'd done anything differently than I would have normally with the clutch and throttle pedals. The second time it happened I had just reversed out of a parking space and had just put my car in first to drive away and it done it again but I know that I hadn'd done anything strange with the pedals. It has also just about done it driving out of my driveway bu that time I was already moving and had put in the clutch at the bottom of the driveway to slow down to merge in to the street. I put the clutch in at about 1200 rpm and the engine slowed all the way down to about 500 rpm but recovered to idle and didn't stall. I have no idea what could be causing it as there are no other signs of it happening at any other time. There is no loss of performance but on the last tank of fuel I only managed 395 miles until the fuel light came on (normally 450 miles minimum until it comes on).

 

On a side note ever since I got the car the engine speed sometimes dips and then rises when the clutch is let out in neutral after coming to a stop at traffic lights etc. but the engine then returns to idle no problem at all. Don't know if its related but its worth mentioning. While the car was in for yet more warrenty work a couple of months ago there was an update installed to it and was doing it before it was installed so its not that (the revving when coming to a stop, not the stalling).

 

Thanks in advance for any suggestions of what it could be

 

Stu

Well its not for "no" reason. 

Diesels need the fuelling controlled at all accelerator positions (Diesels don't have throttles, power/speed is controlled exclusively by the amount of fuel injected).  It could be something has gone arwy - a sensor these days as they are electronically controlled and don't have mechanical/hydraulic low speed governers.

I presume the dealer ran a diagnostic?  Perhaps a specific request about this potentially dangerous problem is in order?  Anyway, if its still under warranty, a dealer should be looking into this. 

 

Or it could be the seat was moved and your well trained feet are in a slightly different position in relation to the pedals.

Thaks for the prompt reply nickguzzi. My seat was moved when it was in the dealers getting the Amunsen diagnosed as faulty but that was a week ago and the seat is back where it normally is (I'm the only person who drives it) and even if it was one notch further back then I would have thought that I would have gotten used to the new position (I've driven about 200 miles since it has come back out of the dealers)

 

It could quite easily be a duff sensor because electrical faults seem to be my cars favourite fault. It has started doing it since it was last in the dealers a week ago so it hasn't been put in the diagnostics computer yet (phoning the dealers today about it). The only other problem is that the dealers are about a 140 mile round trip and I'm in work this week so there is no way that I can get it to them even tho I'm not that keen on driving it round knowing that it could cut out at any point. It's 10 months old in a couple of weeks and only has 5400 miles on it so it will all be under warrenty but its just a pain in the arse having to take it to the garage all the time for stuff to be fixed so I wondered if there was something that I could do without having to take it to the garage.

 

Its just not very confidence inspiring knowing that it could cut out crossing a 60 mph road or driving on to a roundabout and I could get t-boned :S