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TT/LCR front end part numbers pleeeeeeease?

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Does it make a huge difference if I use the std vrs subframe?

Mines modified with a custom down pipe bracket welded on...it would be a shame to do all that again with another subframe if the dimensions were the same?!

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  • VRSMARK and Lloyd    These are all the P/N I used(although not all these part are needed but I went full on replacing any bolt I removed) The Part you need depends on weather you either buy parts s

  • I thought they were different..... Maybe we could have a mini mini group buy,just us two???

  • no difference other than the subframe bushes that attach it to the chassis as billy states which are these   Rear of subframe bolts x 2 N90752802 Front of Subframe Bolts x 2 N90734902 Upper moun

Only differences are the bushes in them mate

Why have you got a bracket on there? That will be noisy wont it?

  • Author

The bracket has two exhaust hanger rubbers on it to support the downpipe. It was done to reduce flex and support the exhaust because the 3in milltek system I have has always rattled no matter what I did to it!

Since the bracket was done it hasn't made a peep....it's just a pity the backbox has split again,but it's going to the milltek factory in derby to get there techs to look at why it keeps happening...and to get my third replacement backbox :-(

Lol haha ****ec. Never could stand them tbh.

Fair one tho if it sorted it. Just put new bushes in the one you have. Lloyd has tge r32 uprated bush pn I gave them him yest.

Again if strapped for cash just put new std ones in.

Save tho and do do thefront bushes. All or nothing andjust wait till you do have funds for it.

I do have part numbers :)

Cheers to billy n mark i have pretty much a full chart :) "cheers again"

I'lll text u the psrt number mark "vrsmark"

:)

  • Author

My std subframe has new (6k miles old) bushes in so I can leave them in there....

I'll definitely do the castor bushes to get the best handling....

New wheel bearings,track rod ends,acid dip it all,powdercoat it all,might recon the steering rack while I'm at it,adjustable top mounts.....this is starting to look expensive ;-/

Bear in mind the castor bushes can do a similar job to adjustable topmounts (decent ones anyway such a Ground Control or  Silver Project)

 

you've also got  -/+ 1.5 degrees of camber adjustment of the wishbones

 

I've held fire on topmounts to see how folks found the Silver Projects  - which seems to be very positive

 

Need a group by on the Silver projects ;)

 

 

Need a group by on the Silver projects ;)

 

 

CLIVE!!!!!!!

 

lol

Does it make a huge difference if I use the std vrs subframe?

Mines modified with a custom down pipe bracket welded on...it would be a shame to do all that again with another subframe if the dimensions were the same?!

 

no difference other than the subframe bushes that attach it to the chassis as billy states which are these

 

Rear of subframe bolts x 2

N90752802

Front of Subframe Bolts x 2

N90734902

Upper mounting bush x 2

8N0199282C

Lower mounting bush x 2

8N0199282D

 

I also brace my subframe extra as like a TT Roadstar...

 

Also shows pics of me removing subrame bushes on the VRS to the Part above

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/240661-vrs-chassis-mods-done-good-results/?hl=%20audi%20%20tt%20%20wishbones

 

here:

  • Author

There was a GB on Facebook but I missed it!

I contacted a guy about it but he said he doesn't have any spares...

My neighbour got some as part of the GB though...so I'll pick his brain when he gets them fitted!

  • Author

Thanks for the write up mark ;-)

Some great info on this thread now for anyone else thinking about doing this :-)

Thanks for the write up mark ;-)

Some great info on this thread now for anyone else thinking about doing this :-)

 

No worries I will load up P/N later as have all including rack, hubs, etc

i will start a group buy later today for these top mounts as now i deal with them 

 

so send me a pm if your interested 

  • Author

Pm'd you Clive ;-)

;-) got it

Will put a group buy up tonight

Ok..... Thanks to billy n mark bowders

I do beleve i have a full table of parts and part numbers to build this set up from the ground up

Tie rod assembly

Ball joints

Bearing kits

Wheel flange assmblys

Bolts and nuts

And a lower s3 brace :)

I will soon be transfereing all this to my build thread and will somehow put a link on page 1 of my journal

When built i will add any extras then submit a shoppibg list as a expensive sticky :D

VRSMARK and Lloyd 

 

These are all the P/N I used(although not all these part are needed but I went full on replacing any bolt I removed)

The Part you need depends on weather you either buy parts separate or are lucky and get a Full made up Sub Frame.

 

Also note any P/N with a (*) at the end is the latest level so replace the last number before bracket with number in bracket

 

 

Suspension

 

1ML 412 331  x 2            LCR Suspension Top Mounts
1J0 412 249    x2            Strut Bearing

N 102 07803(4) x 2         Suspension / Hub    Bolt

N 10106402  x 2             Suspension / Hub    Nut        

       

Subframe

 

N 907 528 02  X 2          Rear Bolt
N 907 349 02  X 2           Front Bolt

8N0199282C Upper mounting bush x 2 (LCR)

8N0199282D Lower mounting bush x 2 (LCR)

1J0411305E                    R32 FARB
1J0411336D                   FARB Bush Mounting bracket x 2(your may be ok but i replaced for new anyway)
N10101603                     FARB Bush Mounting bracket bolt x 2 (as above)

SPF2593-23K                 SUPERPRO FARB poly bush 23mm 

 

 

Dogbone

 

N 102 683 02(4)   X 2   Dogbone to Subframe  Bolt 
N 905 970 01        X1    Front Bolt
N 102 466 03        X1    Rear Bolt

 

Wheel Bearing Housing / Hubs

 

8N0407256B        X1    Right Hub (LCR/TT/S3/R32)

8N0407255E        X1    Left Hub (LCR/TT/S3/R32)

N 905 87602        X2    Wheel Hub Nut

 

 

Note: try to get Hubs from a 2 wheel drive so the Hub Flanges are same as VRS(else reuse your VRS ones)

This is because although all hubs are the same for those above the 4x4 use different flanges to accommodate the 4x4 drive shafts 

 

Wishbones

 

8N0407165       X1      Left Cast Wishbone (LCR/TT/S3/R32)

8N0407166       X1      Right Cast Wishbone (LCR/TT/S3/R32)
N 103 32001(2) X6       Ball joint nuts
N 908 08801     X2       Ball Joint to Hub nut
N 904 840 03(4) X2      Wishbone Bolt (Front)
N 102 622 01(2) X2       Wishbone Bolt (Rear)
N 015 0814(6)    X2       Wishbone Nut (Rear)
KIT5240CADJK  x1      SUPERPRO Front control arm set 
Consists of:

SPF3394K                     Front control arm front bushes
SPF3397K                     Front control arm rear Bushes (castor increase)

 

Steering Parts

 

8N2422061H                  Steering Rack (quick Rack) 2.6 turns approx (LCR/TT/S3/R32) sometimes have 1J2 422 105 on them

N 100 155 06 (7)   X 4   Steering rack Bolts

N 013 849 4          X2    Sterring rack pipe seal washer

N 013 848 7          X2    Steering Rack pipe seal wahser
Steering rack boot kit x 1
PFF85-416          x 1 Powerflex Steering Rack mount(optional but good choice)

or

PF3366K             x 1 SuperPro Steering Rack mount(optional but this was my choice)

N0407365C        x 2    Ball Joint(Hub to wishbone) 

8N0422803D         x1     Track rod (steering) Left
8N0422804D         x1     Track rod (steering) Right
8N0422811A         x1     Tie Rod End Left 
8N0422812A         x1     Tie Rod End Right

 

Also i did a DIY guide somewhere but dam if i can find it

 

However this link is dam near mine and even used some on my Part list which should make you feel more confident.

It is pretty close to how I did mine

 

http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/199244/1291722.aspx

 

Few pics of mine and useful  link

 

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/240661-vrs-chassis-mods-done-good-results/?hl=%20audi%20%20tt%20%20wishbones

 

One of the main reasons do this conversion and also fit the TT/LCR/S3 Hubs is they have longer brackets to ball joint/wishbones which give the cast wishbone a much better horizontal level even on lowered cars

 

My Cast Wishbones with castor adjuster bushes

AudiTTFrontSteeringoverhaul039.jpg

fitted wishbones

AudiTTFrontSteeringoverhaul059.jpg

You can see the near horizontal wishbone (and my car is very low)

AudiTTFrontSteeringoverhaul087.jpg

AudiTTFrontSteeringoverhaul080.jpg

AudiTTFrontSteeringoverhaul076.jpg

You can also see the much longer distance the lower ball joint is located on the bottom of the TT hub( the TT HUB is a must as well to get best out of the conversion)

AudiTTFrontSteeringoverhaul071.jpg

AudiTTFrontSteeringoverhaul067.jpg

 

hope this helps folks....  :thumbup:

Hehe cool :)

Now to make sure i have all those bits on my list

  • Author

That's an expensive list Lloyd!

That's an expensive list Lloyd!

 

I'd say as the nuts/bolts and stuff you don't really account for add up. 

 

You are one lucky dude if you can get a complete subframe with Rack / Arms / 23mm FARB and Hubs as not only can you get a bargain you do not really have to strip down,  just swap across so to speak.

 

Mind you I have seen the pics of painted subframes from Lloydy already :rofl: 

He will be stripping it anyway , painting Red or Blue or something similar........ :giggle:  

Hehe :D

Red subframe and hubs

Black wishbones

Then built from the rack out with oem bits :)

Coming in spring 2018 :D lmao

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Author

Quick one on this....would it make any difference if I kept my stock vrs hubs in place and just used the LCR rack and lower arms?

Sorry if this has already been covered,I'd rather not split the whole hub assemblies out if I don't have to lol!

Also I could sell the LCR subframe and hubs for fair money then! ;-)

Quick one on this....would it make any difference if I kept my stock vrs hubs in place and just used the LCR rack and lower arms?

Sorry if this has already been covered,I'd rather not split the whole hub assemblies out if I don't have to lol!

Also I could sell the LCR subframe and hubs for fair money then! ;-)

 

A hell of a difference buddy.... and a waste of time IMO doing the whole conversion TBH if you keep your std VRS hubs

 

I covered this above showing these pics.

 

look at the bottom of the LCR/TT hub below. You can see that the wishbone ball joint sit's low on the hub 

 

AudiTTFrontSteeringoverhaul071.jpg

AudiTTFrontSteeringoverhaul067.jpg

 

Now go check your VRS hub you will clearly see there is a much shorter ball joint position in the hub. 

 

If you keep your VRS hubs the LCR cast wishbones will sit higher on the ball joint/Hub and you will get negative horizontal wishbone position. This is the reason for wheel hop on lowered std VRS cars. Also if you are fitting a Quick rack you will have to swap the arms to VRS ones if keeping VRS Hubs. 

 

If you are going to the trouble of fitting the cast wishbones and quick rack then do the whole job dude to get the best benefit's :thumbup:

 

If you have the LCR Subframe with Hubs then why not just swap over the whole subframe with parts on it attached.

  • Author

Awesome,that's that settled!

I'm keeping them then ;-)

Cheers mark!

Awesome,that's that settled!

I'm keeping them then ;-)

Cheers mark!

 

You are welcome

 

knew you would see sense buddy :rock:

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