So I am looking for an EGR delete kit for the vRS, does one kit hold any difference over the next?

 

Is there any reason I should buy this kit

 

http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-1-9-8v-tdi-pd130-pd150-egr-delete-race-pipe-57mm.html

 

instead of this this and any old steal plate I can fit over the intake hole.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-EGR-Cooler-Delete-Pipe-for-1-9-8v-PD105-2-0-16v-TDI-BKD-PD140-PD170-/130770671294?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e728a16be

 

Or better still, which common sense suggest to me would be the best option and just run a single silicon or steel pipe straight from the start of where the EGR value would fit, straight through replacing not only the EGR value but also both parts of the boost hose, i.e. the silicon 90% turn from the EGR value and the plastic part underneath, thus cutting out all, what I assume are unnecessary joints in-between

 

Seems to make perfect sense to take option 3, except cant seem to find such a part anywhere so maybe for some reason I cant quite see, this option is floored somehow, if not and anyone does know where I can purchase such a part then really would appreciate link so I can check out the price, thx.

Edited 29 September, 201312 yr by KillerShark1978

The ebay linked one won't.

It's for the later BKD 2.0 engine not the 1.9 ASZ or BLT engines in the VRS.

Option 3 is essentially what option 1 is.....

Fitted like this

Option 4 is just to remove the pipe from EGR to exhaust manifold and blank off the 2 resulting holes.

This leave the EGR assembly in place but non-functioning meaning cleaner more efficient running.

The ebay linked one won't.

It's for the later BKD 2.0 engine not the 1.9 ASZ or BLT engines in the VRS.

Option 3 is essentially what option 1 is.....

Fitted like this

Option 4 is just to remove the pipe from EGR to exhaust manifold and blank off the 2 resulting holes.

This leave the EGR assembly in place but non-functioning meaning cleaner more efficient running.

 

So is option 4 the best option? Obviously would be the cheapest option but does it have any other benefits over replacing the pipe, like say no warning lights showing up that need mapping out for example?

The EGR stays in place with all the vac pipes attached so no warning Iights at all.

Certainly the cheapest option - I did mine with 2 blanking plates from darkside (£13 inc postage) and a couple of genuine gaskets from my local dealer (£6)

The only downside is that the EGR flap & supporting pole stay in place causing a very minor air flow disruption (although it's only the same disruption than features as standard)

Wish I'd left mine as standard as it's a pain trying to find a pipe to replace the one I cut to fit the delete

Went with the Delete Kit offered by Darkside in the end, been fitted for the last 24 hours and nothing bad to speak of, did not even get an engine warning light, well I did at first but was not anything to do with the deleted value, just air nipples needed bleeding after fitting, bare in mind I took the turbo off also during this process to remove and replace a broken stud on the turbo's manifold, have done about 50 miles with the deleted value so far, and runs fine, can't honestly say I can notice a difference for better or worse by at least I wont have the problems caused by a stuffed up manifold and leaky value ever again.

 

As for the light not coming car already has a stage 1 remap so not sure if that was part of the remap package and why the ECU seems not to care, also discovered the turbo is the Hybird PD150 not the PD130 I was expecting, again just a random sheer surprise bonus this car keeps revealing to me so all is well and still running to perfection.

 

Next job is to find a nice Front mounted Intercooler and give the engine a fresh look when I go custom with self constructed alloy piping 60mm though-out, using red silicon for any bends I need to make in order to mount, and also going to get some red silicone hose to replace all smaller pump, fuel pipes and whatever possible, can hardly wait

 

Quick Question

 

Now That the EGR is deleted, obviously I just have the vacuum hoses blocked off with bolts. Can I reuse these same hoses to install a dump value?

 

Also I faced my first problem with this set up, did not feel 100% when driving, felt like to much pressure was building up in the intake system, it is my best guess that the hole in the top of the EGR value that is prone to leaks in a dirty EGR system, that this holes real purpose is to release excessive pressure built up in the intake system.

 

Fortunately kit I brought has a drilled hole with optional fittings, one option keeps the hole and leaves a hollow pipe sticking up and out of the delete pipe, purpose been to install a boost gauge onto the optional fitting, other optional part simply fixes a solid bolt into the hole and blocks it out completely, started out with the block out option and faced the problem of pressure been to high, so have temporally fitted the hollow option to simulate the hole in the egr value giving excessive pressure a point of release, only problem now is am loosing power due to release been constant unlike the egr hole system been pressure controlled, this however feels much better than been over pressured, feels like over pressure is more likely to cause damage, where as lack of pressure still feels very nice and smooth to drive just am not getting the full power output car can offer.

 

I am not an expert but seems to me like a dump value is the answer to all these problems, would love a second option from anyone more educated on this issue, not forgetting the answer about the vacuum hoses, thanks.

Edited 5 October, 201312 yr by KillerShark1978

You aren't an expert are you..

You aren't an expert are you..

Nope am not, so if u see anything wrong with my analysis why not point it out and suggest a helpful solution instead of just pointing that out.

I'm pretty confident that the EGR valve doesn't have an 'over-pressure' relief valve. [Note - valve, not value]

 

If your car is overboosting, it's possible that your variable geometry turbo ('VNT') needs a clean out; check the actuator and if it isn't moving freely look for references to Mr Muscle oven cleaner for a potential fix.

I dont think its a cleaning issue, least it shouldent be since I took the turbo off when fitting because one of the studs broke off when removing the down pipe from the egr to the turbo, I took it out to have the stud drilled out and replaced, all precautions where took involving covering all intake points, and it eas professionally cleaned out after, infact thats when I discovered that it was the pd150 hybird, plus it looked and I was told by the guy who did the job that the turbo was fairly new and in great conditon, I could see from the bolts alone that it was obviously not as old as the car.

Also, it gives me the engine warning light when I run the car after so long when I have the hole in the delete pipe covered and starts to feel off when driving, much more engine shake is one symptom and somehow when I putky foot down throttle feels much tighter.

I donr have any of these problems with the hole left open only seems to lack excel power thats all.

As for the comment I make about the egr value been able to release over pressure in the pipes, the value does have to small hole under the Sauer, one thats prone to leak oil should the egr valve become clogged up, that hole is there accorsing to my research to release accessive air presure, anf that is something the delete pipe lacks if installed correctly with the hole filled in assuming u dont want to fit a boost gauge.

If that hole in the egr is constant or only accessed to the sytem during pressure from the pump I dont know, but I would be suprised if it was constant due to the power drop I feel with the contant hole I have in my delete pipe right now, which is much smaller also that the one in the valve.

Please excuse any typos, am making posts on mobile phone

Edited 6 October, 201312 yr by KillerShark1978

You say "that hole is there accorsing to my research to release accessive air pressure"

 

Where have you read this? In a way, it is, but not the way you're thinking.

 

Edit: I'll try to explain what I think that hole is for, see if it makes sense...

 

The EGR valve on your engine that sometimes allows some exhaust gases into the intake is a vacuum powered device. A large flexible diaphragm sits inside the metal 'flying saucer' bit, and this is physically connected to the valve stem.  When there is low pressure above the diaphragm (vacuum applied) the diaphragm is distorted upwards, and the valve lifts off its seat to allow the exhaust gases in.  There is a strong spring that tries to close the valve and will do any time this vacuum is not present.  Try operating the valve by hand against this spring, and you'll be amazed that the vacuum can ever move it.

 

The valve stem has to go through a valve guide on its way towards the valve head, which will have a certain amount of clearance to allow sliding motion, so will not form a perfect gas seal. There can/will be some gas flow from the intake towards the vacuum diaphragm any time the turbo is offering any boost. Let's call it inevitable leakage.

 

If the underside of the vacuum diaphragm was in a chamber that was not vented to atmosphere, then this leakage would tend to push the diaphragm upwards, in addition to any (controlled) pull upwards from the vacuum system. So the EGR valve would open in an uncontrolled way, depending on boost pressure. This would be undesirable, so the space below the diaphragm is vented to atmosphere via a small hole.

With this hole, the only force on the diaphragm is the difference between (constant) atmospheric pressure and (controlled) vacuum pressure. So a predictable system that the ECU can control accurately.