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BKD PD140 (2007) Turbo Problems

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I think that as well as needing a new cambelt (because it's due) and and having a DMF on the way out (although that's gone quiet again) I'm having turbo issues.

Its done this almost every time I 'give it some beans' and push the revs up to over 3500 and quickly hit 75mph, then the turbo cuts out. But I've only noticed this on a cold engine - I haven't been for any longer runs recently to try it out.

Car still drives OK, but no turbo or power. Park the car and come back after an hour and its got the turbo back but it can cut out again.

As the car has done over 135000 miles, it seems to be about the time the turbo fails on these BKD engines (MY 2007).

Aside from the obvious (new turbo) is there anything else I should check or clean on this engine?

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  • Errrmmm, it's not really a good idea to take it over 3500 rpm on a cold motor! You're definitely going to kill the turbo like that.

  • If it doesn't work and you need a new turbo I can highly recommend Midland Turbo in Nottingham - next day delivery of an exchange unit (a quality build as well) and they collect your old one up to a f

  • Fairly easy to find on a BKD - remove the air intake pipe to the turbo that runs across the engine bay behind the cam cover. You will then see the EGR cooler sat above the turbo. The silver pipe that

Errrmmm, it's not really a good idea to take it over 3500 rpm on a cold motor! You're definitely going to kill the turbo like that.

  • Author

I've only been doing it to see when it conks out!

Otherwise it rarely gets a look in.

Perhaps that's the problem - lack of use...

BKD engines are well known for clogging up the variable vane turbo's and their EGR valves. There are several ways to 'clean' the innerds of your turbo from minimally invasive (not had great results with these) such as the REVIVE kit, the there is the innotec kit which requires a bit more work but the results are the most cost effective I have had. Then you could remove your turbo and strip and clean it by hand. Last but not least replace the turbo with a recon( or have yours reconditioned) or new one which would be big ££££.

 

Whilst doing this I would strip + clean the EGR valve and change the engine oil and filter.

 

Also I would make sure you have had the ECU read to look and see if there any fault codes stored as this could give you a better indication of what's going on.

 

Hope this helps.

 

Ps - If I was spending my money I would go for the Innotec kit.

  • Author

Thanks. I have the VCDS cable but no laptop at present - I'll have to borrow one and take a look.

I'd been reading about cleaning the EGR valve. Will have to reread and pay more attention now.

  • Author

I haven't tried just a switch off and back on yet.

Will try it next time it happens.

You shouldn't need to leave it an hour to get the turbo back out of limp mode. It should reset itself once you switch the engine off and restart.

 

Have you tried cleaning it with Mr. Muscle? There are quite a few threads on here on how to do that. It may be a long-term temporary measure, but should give you a few more months before you need to have anything drastic done.

 

Mike

 

+1.

 

If you use the Innotec kit ( A quick search on google / ebay ) the solution is more permanent than temporary. One of the better features of this kit rather than a tin of MrMuscle (Although I am not knocking it) is that it has a stage 2 (Rinse - To wash away the cleaner)

 

It also comes with some injector cleaner - although this is a completely separate matter.

Mine did this on just one journey. I warmed it up and then took if for an 'Italian Tune' on the local national speed limit roads and it hasn't done it since.

 

Diesels do not like being driven gently. They need to get hot every now and then to burn off the carbon deposits.

 

Mine is a DSG and if I let the 'box do it's thing it very, very rarely gets above 2k revs so am not surprised my Turbo was a little carboned up.

 

They seem to have the innotec stuff on amazon by the way http://www.amazon.co.uk/Innotec-Diesel-Cleaning-Official-Distributor/dp/B004LAYOH0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382207316&sr=8-1&keywords=innotec+turbo+cleaner

 

Personally if the 'Italian Tune' hadn't worked I was going to try the Mr Muscle trick.

Edited by kissifer

  • Author

I'll freely admit to rarely going over 2-2.5k revs; most of my driving is a steady 55-60 mph changing gear at just over 2k revs.

I'm also guilty of under reving the car.

I'll read all the EGR posts again and look at Innotec / Mr Muscle for cleaning it.

  • Author

I'll freely admit to rarely going over 2-2.5k revs; most of my driving is a steady 55-60 mph changing gear at just over 2k revs.

I'm also guilty of under reving the car.

I'll read all the EGR posts again and look at Innotec / Mr Muscle for cleaning it.

Likely to be sticking vanes on the turbo, with what you describe.

 

EGR is another known point of failure for sure. I'd just goto Darkside for the delete kit. Is the car mapped at all? Removal of the EGR will throw the CEL on but that can be mapped out.

 

With a proper turbo and the EGR bypassed it's a different car - you'll not regret having the work done, after you've got over paying for it of course!

  • Author

Not mapped. Engine is totally standard.

Can't really afford a EGR delete & map, so will look at 'cleaning' as a more affordable solution at the moment.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

Try and stretch to the EGR delete and if you can get your CAT knocked out, which really helps the turbo spin up!! It's like driving a different car.

Having a similar problem with my 05 2.0 140bhp octavia. when you put the boot down when the engine is warm in 2nd the turbo kicks in at 1500 <roughly> drops out and kicks in again? could this be EGR? or have i other problems. Nothing showing up on VCD's when plugged in. 

engine hunts a little when warm also? 

 

I am looking at getting her re-mapped but dont want to if i need to replace parts first? 

 

any help appreciated.  

Spool-up should be around 1700-1750, boost delivered from 1900 onwards.

 

If you're feeling boost coming in and out, I'd look at sticking vanes first of all. Also check how delivery is at constant throttle and therefore constant RPM.

 

I certainly wouldn't look at remapping until you have this completely resolved.

Spool-up should be around 1700-1750, boost delivered from 1900 onwards.

 

If you're feeling boost coming in and out, I'd look at sticking vanes first of all. Also check how delivery is at constant throttle and therefore constant RPM.

 

I certainly wouldn't look at remapping until you have this completely resolved.

+1

 

As wardy says - get your running problems resolved before you go down the remap route.

 

If you believe the turbo is kicking in and out you could always measure this by going for a drive with your VCDS connected (Measuring blocks - Requested Vs Actual turbo pressure).

 

I am surprised though that no fault code has been thrown up by the ECU.

 

I would suggest a good clean off the turbo and EGR valve as suggested in earlier posts and then take it for a spirited drive within the legal limits of course.

 

The products you suggest may work - although I have not had much success with similar products such as REVIVE. Once the turbo gets clogged up the best course of action i find is to either strip + clean properly or to use the innotec kit.

 

My personal view is the products you suggest are more a preventative measure than a sure fire cure.

  • Author

Bit of an update: pushed it a but last night, turbo cut out and EML light came on!

Still on today.

Had a longer drive today so engine had chance to get up to temp and then gave it some high rev action.

No sign of turbo cutting out, but EML still on. Will have to borrow a laptop and get VCDS on it to see what and why.

Then I might go for one of the cleaning products and some more engine warming driving before looking at anything more expensive.

Remember when using any of the cleaning products suggested to read the label as any cleaning is usually carried out on a cold engine, the spirited driving comes much afterwards. You will need VCDS or similar to reset the fault code. I make the assumption the one you will find is the one for overboost. 

 

I think you might have to just bite the bullet and clean the turbo.

I highly suspect that it will be an over-boost fault code telling you that you have sticky vanes in the Turbo.

 

Time for a clean or replacement.

Yep, at the moment I certainly wouldn't be using any more revs than strictly necessary! Trying to clear this up with a healthy dose of the loud pedal will not end well :)

 

Eventually it'll be stressed enough trying to provide the boost you're asking for and with sticking vanes the shaft will shear, or the compressor wheel will lunch itself. Either are not good news and you risk damage to intercooler, exhaust system, cat etc - depending on how unlucky you are. My Octavia turbo failure; all of the aforementioned, so I'm speaking from experience :thumbup:

Yep, at the moment I certainly wouldn't be using any more revs than strictly necessary! Trying to clear this up with a healthy dose of the loud pedal will not end well :)

 

Eventually it'll be stressed enough trying to provide the boost you're asking for and with sticking vanes the shaft will shear, or the compressor wheel will lunch itself. Either are not good news and you risk damage to intercooler, exhaust system, cat etc - depending on how unlucky you are. My Octavia turbo failure; all of the aforementioned, so I'm speaking from experience :thumbup:

 

+1

 

Just bite the bullet and clean the turbo

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