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BKD PD140 (2007) Turbo Problems

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Yeah it is pretty gibbers at the mo. At least you should be able to get a quick warm whilst the kit does its stuff. Just remember to do it cold and wiggle the turbo vane lever whilst the kit is doing its stuff, don't rush it.

  • 2 months later...
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  • Errrmmm, it's not really a good idea to take it over 3500 rpm on a cold motor! You're definitely going to kill the turbo like that.

  • If it doesn't work and you need a new turbo I can highly recommend Midland Turbo in Nottingham - next day delivery of an exchange unit (a quality build as well) and they collect your old one up to a f

  • Fairly easy to find on a BKD - remove the air intake pipe to the turbo that runs across the engine bay behind the cam cover. You will then see the EGR cooler sat above the turbo. The silver pipe that

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There's a brand new PD140 turbo for sale on this forum which I now don't need as mine is cleaned out.

There's a brand new PD140 turbo for sale on this forum which I now don't need as mine is cleaned out.

 

Was it the Innotec you used, and was it successful ????

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Nothing!

I think I caught it early enough and a few drives building up the revs seems to have cleared it.

Certainly not getting any problems at high revs now!!!

I think I'm going to run some Archoil stuff through the fuel tank when I get a chance just for a but if extra cleaning.

Try Midland Turbos in Nottingham, they ship a turbo to you and then collect the old one from you. Can't rate them highly enough, and the quality of their rebuilds is first rate. If you can afford to have the car off the road for a week they will collect your turbo, inspect and rebuild it.

Sent from my phone so please excuse brevity and spelling

  • 1 year later...

I've to done much with this for a while as the turbo hasn't caused any further issues until this week. And the EML had gone out.

 

Pushed the car a bit earlier this week and the turbo cut out at about 3500 rpm. Curiously so did the cruise control which it has done before.

 

The scan shows the following (all irrelevant sections omitted):

 

 

 

Are these related to the turbo issues or is there a separate but coincidental issue?

 

I was joining motorway from a roundabout, floored it, 2nd gear went to 4k rpm but felt a bit sluggish at the top end, 3rd gear went up without problem until 3.5k. Then suddenly loss of power and I knew straight away what is happening. Cruise control went too, I believe it is normal behavior when ecu switch itself to safe mode. So pulled over, restart the car and all worked for couple of miles, then safe mode again.

Plugged it in when got home and the same fault code stored (no ELM light in my case):

000564 - Boost Pressure Regulation 
               P0234 - 000 - Limit Exceeded (Overboost Condition) - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00110000
                    Fault Priority: 2
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 255
                    Mileage: 217225 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2000.00.00
                    Time: 10:09:41

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 3717 /min
                    Speed: 93.0 km/h
                    Load: 100.0 %
                    Voltage: 14.36 V
                    Bin. Bits: 00101000
                    Absolute Pres.: 2152.2 mbar
                    Absolute Pres.: 2590.8 mbar

Car is on 135 000 miles and I cleaned the turbo with Mr Muscle about 6 months/5000 miles ago but that was just a precaution as the turbo worked fine - after i bought the car I wanted to know if there is play in the shaft so sprayed it in while I had easy access.

I can't believe that after 5000 miles the turbo is clogged up. Yes we do mostly short trips through city but I would expect to last at least 15-20k miles. Anyway time to jack the car up I guess.

My question is, is the Mr Muscle efficient enough or would the Innotec kit be better? Or shall I take the turbo out and clean the vanes with toothbrush? What would be best (and cheapest) option?

Thanks

The easiest ans cheapest option would be to Mr Muscle it. Leaving it long enough to do its stuff while moving the lever.

 

The best solution would be a recon / new turbo.

 

Middle ground would be to remove / strip / clean.

  • 1 month later...

Thanks all - this thread has helped me out after today's panic.  I hoofed the car to get on the motorway ahead of another car when it wasn't fully warm (I wasn't happy doing it but I had little choice), and it's obviously gone into limp-home mode - hardly any power in higher gears, couldn't get it above 73mph unless I was going downhill.  I'll see if my sedentary driving style works OK again tomorrow, and I'll remember to give it some gentle beans once it's warm to clear things out.  Otherwise, I'll try the innotec (if I can find some detailed instructions on what's involved).

 

The low power got me an extra 5mpg though, so it's not all bad...:D

Edited by Jelibeli

  • 3 months later...

Likely to be sticking vanes on the turbo, with what you describe.

 

EGR is another known point of failure for sure. I'd just goto Darkside for the delete kit. Is the car mapped at all? Removal of the EGR will throw the CEL on but that can be mapped out.

 

With a proper turbo and the EGR bypassed it's a different car - you'll not regret having the work done, after you've got over paying for it of course!

 

 

I see you are in Rossendale - can you suggest a place to clean a turbo (2011 Octavia 1.6CR estate)  I'm near Oldham

I'm not in Rossendale, no - a bit further south :)

 

Turbo cleaning - depends what you have in mind? Are you planning on having the turbo removed, or looking for a cleaning process with it still connected up?

Ideally taken out and cleaned, but left in and cleaned would be fine too.   I would do the Mr Muscle thing, but it is beyond me - I would break the car.

 

It seems that sticky vanes are cured by under £10 if you have space/time/confidence to do it, or £800 for a new turbo if not.

 

Assuming it is the turbo, that is.  

 

Car will start in limp mode - but 9 times out of 10 will come out of it by going into neutral at 30 - 40 (ideally downhill) dropping the power of, turning back on and jump starting it in 3rd, if you see what I mean. 

 

Then it drives really well until next time.

If your not confident in doing the mr muscle you could try an intank cleaner or the revive treatment. But you will need vcds to do the revive treatment to reset the fault code afterwards

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

I have used Forte turbo cleaner - it stopped the problem for about 6 weeks, but I would prefer to get it cleaned (or even replaced if found to be knackered) In my simple, non-mechanic mind, the fact it comes back out of limp mode, and can be fine for a week or more, suggests a sticky deposit rather than a broken something....

Edited by Folkdeejay

off topic slighty ive got the same engine. It's a bkd 2 liter diesel. I leave the engine ticking over then the engine increases its revs on its own. Any one got any thoughts on why its doing it at all? Or would the turbo start to clog up?

off topic slighty ive got the same engine. It's a bkd 2 liter diesel. I leave the engine ticking over then the engine increases its revs on its own. Any one got any thoughts on why its doing it at all? Or would the turbo start to clog up?

You perhaps haven't seen my reply on your other thread, but my BKD engined Octavia used to do this if the alternator got damp for any reason, eg after washing the car with a hose. I've no idea why a damp alternator would cause engine to revs rise, perhaps due to the output voltage falling slightly and the ECU increasing the engine idle speed to compensate.

The idle speed is continously variable under the control of the ECU on these so anything which increases load on the engine, eg changing settings on the climate control, an electrical consumer switching on, can cause the idle speed to change.

Edited by nick74

  • 2 weeks later...

the alternator seems to be fine??!! Its pumping out 13 volts when the engine is ticking over.

My alternator never actually had any other issues, charged the battery fine, put out a healthy voltage etc. Just if it got a soaking for any reason the engine revs would increase for a few minutes until it dried out! It didn't appear to matter and didn't happen very often so I just ignored it.

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