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Resetting MAF

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As title suggests, i've read on here that by disconnecting battery for 30 mins then running engine for another 30 resets the ECU and thus provides more power ( or something).

The reason i ask is because i genuinly cant tell for sure whether my car has lost a bit of power, if i am imagining it OR if i have just gotten used to it after nearly 9 years of ownership. Dont get me wrong, there is zero hesitation when accelerating it just doesnt pick up as quickly as i think it used to.

Car is standard, 54 plate with 53,000 miles. It had a full service and cambelt/waterpump at main dealer 3 weeks ago, and brand new bottom boost pipe and clips etc. i've checked all other hoses and none appear to be split/leaking/loose.

As i say, it just doesnt feel as quick as it did, although im not sure if its in my noggin.

Does this method of resetting the MAF actually work, or is it a placebo effect.

Thoughts/advice please good people.

Edited by carefree

So i've read on various forums (take that as you will), that it does reset it and initially there is more power but then it soon adjusts after around 20 mins of driving back to how it was as the fuelling is corrected.

 

I haven't experienced it though so personally i'm not sure!

  • Author

Can anyone else shed light on my question?

Come on, for what it's going to cost you in fuel for idling for 30 minutes, it's got to be worth a go.

 

Maybe when you have done that folk may be able to throw a bit more light on your problem, assuming it's not been cured by the 30 minutes method.

 

DB

Try running it with maf unplugged and see if there is a difference in performance.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

  • Author

Come on, for what it's going to cost you in fuel for idling for 30 minutes, it's got to be worth a go.

Maybe when you have done that folk may be able to throw a bit more light on your problem, assuming it's not been cured by the 30 minutes method.

DB

Yeah thats the point i made in the original post, i dont know if i have a problem. I was asking about the 30 second thing purely to see if it was genuinely worth my while doing. I dont want to **** about if i dont have to (i know some people have nothing better to do) hence my original question, does it actually work or is it a myth?

If enough people confirm its actually worked for them i'll do but if the general consensus is that it just doesnt work then I wont. As it is i have only read one other post recommending this method so im not convinced.

Its not about what it may or may not cost me in fuel, its about getting a general opinion to see if its worth my while or not. Im not mechanically minded unfortunately hence why im asking for opinions.

Edited by carefree

If you don't want to help yourself. End of story then.

DBl

  • Author

Mate if you've nothing constructive to say butt out, i was asking for advice, not smart ass comments.

I have been quite constructive but quite obviously you don't want to put yourself out, so as you suggest I will gladly 'butt out'.

 

DB.

  • Author

Put myself out?

I was asking for a bit of advice pal, like the majority of threads on here.

Lets steer well clear in future eh?

I did this on my Octy tdi a few years ago. I disconnected battery for 30 mins. Re connected then drove around. It felt much better I thought but as said it didn't last very long like this.

Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk.

  • Author

Cheers stormchaser, if its only s temp thing i probably wont bother trying it.

Maybe i have just got used to it.

Try running it with maf unplugged and see if there is a difference in performance.

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk

As Trundle says, the best way to see if your maf isnt working is simply unplugging it. If the car drives the same then the maf isnt doing anything and is dead. 

  • Author

Cheers matey, i think i'll try that then.

That won't tell you if your maf is dying and on its way out though, only if it is dead completely. I think you'd know about it if it was fully dead as you get next to no boost.

The best way to tell if your maf is dying is to run some maf reading logs in vagcom, doing 3rd and 4tth gear full throttle runs to see if the requested air is the sameish as the actual.

 

I was going to suggest if you're near Leeds and don't have a copy of vcds I'd have a look for you to see if its working as it should but after a bit of stalking you're in Essex haha.

Edited by Dann2707

  • Author

Cheers for that Dann its appreciated mate. I think Leeds might be pushing it a bit but thanks for the offer anyway.

Having read info on here and other forums im starting to wonder if its all in my head. The car picks up without hesitation, idles as it always has but just doesnt feel as quick as it did, which tells me ive maybe just gotten used to it.

I did drive it like a girl for a while after my bottom boost pipe popped off, and since replacing it ive been reluctant to rag it. Maybe the car has just gotten used to being driven a bit more reserved than usual. Time to drive like i used to me thinks.

That won't tell you if your maf is dying and on its way out though, only if it is dead completely. I think you'd know about it if it was fully dead as you get next to no boost.

The best way to tell if your maf is dying is to run some maf reading logs in vagcom, doing 3rd and 4tth gear full throttle runs to see if the requested air is the sameish as the actual.

 

I was going to suggest if you're near Leeds and don't have a copy of vcds I'd have a look for you to see if its working as it should but after a bit of stalking you're in Essex haha.

It just runs a safe map when its unplugged. Anyway, mine wasn't completely dead when i brought the car, but it drove very similar without the maf. Power backs off at high RPM if its dying. Brought a new one and it pulled like a train. 

  • Author

I'll drive it like i used to for the next few days and if i still think its not as quick i'll go down the new MAF route.

Cheers all.

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