Really annoyed at the moment, one of my locking wheel nuts is seized on solid. It's the flower type pattern... I was literally on the last wheel, I'd spent ages bashing the back wheels as they'd jammed solid too, finally thought the last front would be a doddle.

Called Skoda assist who sent an RAC patrol out to me, even he couldn't shift the damn thing and that was with an impact hammer. The bolt has slightly rounded now, but the removal key does go on the bolt and seat on it but there's just enough slack now so that it just skips off when any significant pressure is applied.

The last place to have the wheels off was the Skoda main dealer at the last service. Obviously that's just my word for it, but would it be worth getting them to take a look, stressing the point that it has clearly been overtightened by some spanner monkey with an impact drill? Or maybe I should just try a decent independent tyre place first? 

Last time I had this, the key had to be drilled out, pretty much writing off an alloy wheel in the process. Fortunately it was all part of an insurance repair so a wheel was added to the claim. But I'd be fuming if I end up with a bill for a new wheel this time! 

 

Do criminals even steal wheels anymore to justify their use?

 

Looks like next week I'll be driving round with summer alloys on the front and winter steels on the back until it is sorted!

Yes they still steal wheels,

but unless they are total amateurs rather than fully time served thieves, locking wheel nuts will not stop them.

 

There are types about that might just pinch wheels because they can, like they have a puncture and no spare wheel their self, 

they might not have a jack to lift and leave your car on, but 3 mates in the car, loosen your wheel nuts, 

they lift your car, take off wheel and drop your car.

 

Maybe not common, but common enough that Tyre places get called out to those types of thefts.

So do the breakdown services, ask them.

The wheel/tyre loss is not the big problem or cost, the damage done can be.

 

Instead of Skoda Assist, RAC/AA etc, call a Car or wheel thief, they would have had it off by now..

 

george

It does seem kind of pointless given you can get those reverse thread removal sockets cheaply on eBay etc. Having said that, it still adds a little extra.

It's a nice bonus to changing between summer and winter wheels every 6 months that you get to take the wheels off so they're less likely to seize on.

It does seem kind of pointless given you can get those reverse thread removal sockets cheaply on eBay etc. Having said that, it still adds a little extra.

It's a nice bonus to changing between summer and winter wheels every 6 months that you get to take the wheels off so they're less likely to seize on.

 

Well, at least you find out any issues in a non-emergency situation! Definitely will be putting a little copper grease on the rear hubs, and making sure I personally remove and refit the locking bolts at the dealers.

Copper grease behind the wheel centres is rather important with Skodas, they leave the factory dry, and it does not take long until wheels can be very very difficult to get off.

Unless you are taking off to maintain, or fit winters the Wheels might never be off for several years.

(With Dark Chrome Gigaro not long until the white spider spreads from the centre.)

 

george

Oh and again, deliberately put them back on loose, but the n/s rear seized on again!! Luckily RAC nipped it off with an impact hammer and airgun. I have ordered 4 normal wheel nuts and am never using lockers!

I would get some but not McGard type you have,Ive had trouble with them...IMO the bit engaged is not deep enough, so that can lead to slipping and damage.

Skoda used to fit and earlier type with a spline engagement that was a lot deeper,you can still get these if you look hard enough.

Also I've just replaced the McGard type on my newly acquired Lexus IS250 with a good quality new set that engages on three pegs,just for peace of mind.

Sadly the McGard type (US made I believe) seem to be OE on lots of cars now. 

 

To clarify:

This type I like:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/genuine-Volkswagen-Locking-Wheel-Bolts-Lock-Nuts-Golf-Audi-A4-Seat-Skoda-/221408161028?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item338cf46d04

 

This type I don't like:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-VW-Polo-9N-LOCKING-WHEEL-BOLTS-VAG-SEAT-SKODA-/141247691730?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20e304bbd2  (McGard type)

Edited 6 April, 201412 yr by XK140

copper grease on the threads helps them not to seize up.

Yep, I've heard the spline type are the only ones to get. Oh well already ordered 4 normal bolts and caps, if I'd have seen that link earlier I might have gone for them instead. Never mind, at least without any lockers I know there'll never be any issues with them or the key etc. If a thief wanted them they'd be straight in the boot for the key anyway.

copper grease on the threads helps them not to seize up.

 

Yep, kicking myself for not doing that now. However I did coat the rear wheel hubs with that this time, after the utter ****** job I had getting them off before!! 

The big issue with the newer ‘euro’ locks is there is not much purchase area, so if the removal tool is not completely flush inside the bolt they slip damaging the bolt making them almost impossible to remove.

 

Use the earlier ‘ABC’ spline type and you will not have this problem.

 

This is going to be one of the first jobs I do when the new car arrives (which I also did to our current Superb and TT!)

The big issue with the newer ‘euro’ locks is there is not much purchase area, so if the removal tool is not completely flush inside the bolt they slip damaging the bolt making them almost impossible to remove.

 

Use the earlier ‘ABC’ spline type and you will not have this problem.

 

This is going to be one of the first jobs I do when the new car arrives (which I also did to our current Superb and TT!)

 

Exactly what happened with mine - the locking key basically slipped and wore, so that it still sat on the bolt, but there was play in it so that anything more than moderate pressure caused it to slip off. 

I put normal bolts on mine the day I got it from the dealers. I also grease the threads.

I have reverted to normal wheel bolts too on my Octavia II and Fabia.

I would get some but not McGard type you have,Ive had trouble with them...IMO the bit engaged is not deep enough, so that can lead to slipping and damage.

Skoda used to fit and earlier type with a spline engagement that was a lot deeper,you can still get these if you look hard enough.

Also I've just replaced the McGard type on my newly acquired Lexus IS250 with a good quality new set that engages on three pegs,just for peace of mind.

Sadly the McGard type (US made I believe) seem to be OE on lots of cars now. 

 

To clarify:

This type I like:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/genuine-Volkswagen-Locking-Wheel-Bolts-Lock-Nuts-Golf-Audi-A4-Seat-Skoda-/221408161028?pt=UK_Cars_Parts_Vehicles_Wheels_tyres_Trim_Nuts_ET&hash=item338cf46d04

 

This type I don't like:http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2003-VW-Polo-9N-LOCKING-WHEEL-BOLTS-VAG-SEAT-SKODA-/141247691730?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20e304bbd2  (McGard type)

 

I heard the peg type was the worst?!

It does seem kind of pointless given you can get those reverse thread removal sockets cheaply on eBay etc. Having said that, it still adds a little extra.

 

 

You can, however, you realistically need either an air-powered buzzgun or a damn good cordless to use them, so your chances of being disturbed are pretty high. That and you'll need 4 sockets because you'll never get the wheel bolt back out of the socket, quickly, at the roadside. I generally fit the locker last, and remove it first. I only go to about 90Nm putting them in, and apply a mallet to the key before undoing. 

I heard the peg type was the worst?!

,

Not the Toyota/Lexus type in my experience,these are good quality.

would any torque wrench do? i tend to just use a wheel brace and good luck

ive thought about buying one for years and just never got around to it

copper grease on the threads helps them not to seize up.

Torque values are based on dry,clean threads and lubricating the threads completely changes the required turning forces and makes it much easier to over tighten, strip threads etc etc.

A correctly set torque wrench is far better than greasing the threads

If someone wants your wheels, they'll have 'em.

Save yourself the hassle

If someone wants your wheels, they'll have 'em.

Save yourself the hassle

Maybe,but you could also say don't ever bother locking your house doors or your car because a thief can break in easily anyway.

...and don't forget the loss of wheels is going to come totally out of your pocket because with the insurance excess,loss of ncd,it will hardly be worth claiming.

Maybe,but you could also say don't ever bother locking your house doors or your car because a thief can break in easily anyway.

...and don't forget the loss of wheels is going to come totally out of your pocket because with the insurance excess,loss of ncd,it will hardly be worth claiming.

If we are playing devils advocate, my car remains insured whether locking wheel nuts are fitted or not, same isn't true for leaving my house unlocked. Imagine this applies to most, so not quite the same argument.

As for what it costs me if they get stolen, that's between me and my insurer.

Fairly dull thing to argue about, really, so I will segway into something more interesting. Have you fitted B4/B6 dampers to stock springs yet?

with the plastic covers on nobody would know if they were or weren't fitted till they removed all of them anyways

If we are playing devils advocate, my car remains insured whether locking wheel nuts are fitted or not, same isn't true for leaving my house unlocked. Imagine this applies to most, so not quite the same argument.

As for what it costs me if they get stolen, that's between me and my insurer.

Fairly dull thing to argue about, really, so I will segway into something more interesting. Have you fitted B4/B6 dampers to stock springs yet?

Not that interesting,I agree, but let's just say that I believe it's LESS LIKELY your wheels will be stolen with some sort of locking nut on them,if you don't believe that then fair enough.

Did you see my post regarding KYB dampers?

TBH circumstances have changed and I have little incentive to do anything more to the vRS.I have acquired a Lexus for longer trips and automatic wafting about and have decided I don't want two auto cars (surprising wife doesn't like autos anyway.)

So I want something nippy and manual,possibilities are a Fiesta ST,but I don't want to go new again really so if a friend parts with an S3 it could be that or perhaps a late model Civic FN2 type R....who knows?

This will not be now but later this year or early next year.

All rather off topic.

I like off topic