steve95

Mine is the same, most research online says starter motor and/or battery; I have also heard of a software update to fix it as it is apparently due to the ecu wanting to detect a minimum turnover speed when warm before it will start injecting fuel. It is a pain in the backside if ever you stall in the middle of a busy junction lol

Yes it can be coded out with VCDS

At that age, radiator might be corroded through and leaking, in the past year I have replaced rads in both my 54 octy and wife's 04 golf. Thermostat is another possibility, so is water pump. I have also had where bottom rad hose came away from a plastic clip which is supposed to keep it in place, this allowed the pipe to come into contact with the radiator fans which rubbed a huge hole in the pipe!

Nice one. Very very common issue on the golf, I have did exactly the same fix on my wife's mkv

Don't think so, think the wiring will be different. I went for the one from Eurocarparts in the end after giving up trawling around many scrapyards

I think a scan with vcds is definitely needed to see what's going on. It would help if you posted your location if anyone nearby can help. Or look in the vcds owners map in the diagnostics section of the forum. Re only the driver door unlocking, there is a coding option that can be set where a single press only unlocks the drivers door and you need to do a double press to unlock all doors

Yeah I've heard that theory too :-)(Have also heard of some seizing)

You might only be looking at half the story there, usually for a belt to snap something has caused it ie. A pulley such as the alternator or air con may have seized

There is a lot of debate on torsion value if you Google, there is no exact right or wrong answer it's trial and error as to what value is best for the particular engine, the sweet spot can pretty much be anywhere between -4 and +4. That being said, to start with, most try and line it up to -0.5 and take it from there. But yes it can have a fair impact on economy

At low load the variable valve in the compressor will be near closed, this will limit the flow and hence pressure of the gas, probably just enough to keep it below the high pressure cut out threshold

I have mentioned in another thread I don't see why low mileage is such a draw, I've seen low mileage cars have rusty exhausts and mayo in the oil from condensation and never getting up to temp, and worn suspension from spending most of their cold lives bouncing over pot holes at church and speed bumps at tesco. Most high milers will have likely spent most of their lives at full temperature in cruise control on a smooth (ish) motorway network. I agree they sometimes do need suspension work and this I do myself to minimise cost, but I wouldn't hesitate at buying a good car with 100k on the clock. I might think a little longer about a 200k car and would consider perhaps a slightly older version of the same marque with a bit less mileage but that's because I expect to put another good 100k on it myself - there's no saying (depending on how many miles you need to get out of the car in your ownership) that it wouldn't be fine. Advertising on auto trader can be quite expensive, the fact that it's gone off the site doesn't necessarily mean it has sold...

I had a clicking when pushing on the brake pedal shortly before I found my rear off side caliper / pad stuck on, when I finished my 30 mile journey the wheel nearly cooked my leg when I got out and walked past it. Winding the caliper back, cleaning it all up and lubricating the caliper slide areas and back and sides of the pads seems to have cured it

Compressor won't kick in if the lower pursue threshold is reached so compressor might be ok, just looks like you've no refrigerant in the system which would almost certainly indicate a reasonable sized leak

So, the compressors are not the type with a simple clutch which means it's either on or off, but they do have an alternative mechanism like a variable valve to regulate the flow and workload according to demand.So in essence, with econ on, yes the compressor is still turning with the engine, but at minimal effort with only a tiny trickle being pumped through it. Switch econ off, the valve opens more, the compressor pumps more which takes more effort hence more fuel consumption but ultimately nice cool air!

I've never understood why "low mileage" is such a great selling point. I'd much rather a (cheaper) ex rep-mobile that's spent most of it's days in cruise control on the motorways, with the engine getting up to temperature, dpf regenerating etc than Mrs miggins' 1,000 miles a year car that spends it's life being bounced over the speed bumps at tesco and the pot holes in there church car park, has all the emissions gear clogged up, a rusty exhaust, mayo in the oil etc because it never gets up to operating temperature...