2 year old vrs on its 2nd engine, 17k covered, 5k on new engine fully serviced owned from new etc etc

Car had been driven an hour prior to this so wasn't an overnight cold engine, i just got in the car, started fine and after a few seconds i selected reverse gear, as i released the handbrake the car just cut out

no beeping or flashing lights or anything

After the initial WTF i just started it again and did the same things as above but this time it worked fine. Now the paranoid in me thinks it sounds louder than before, as if something's blown off, but like i say i might just be paranoid now

Also over the past few weeks ive had the odd stutter when initially pulling away from cold, sometimes i try to move off and nothing happens even though it says D1 so could these all be the prequel to some fault im about to experience or have i just been lucky up-to now and everyone has these issues?

Ive never known an auto cut out so you can understand my WTF

 

What do you guys think?

 

Did you cover the brakes with your foot at the same time as selecting reverse.

 

Just checking you didn't have the car trying to creep against the handbrake.

 

Can't say it's happened to me though

brake in, select reverse, brake still in, released handbrake :(

2nd engine so there are plenty of things that can cause the likes,

its going to have to be 'The professionals' that are getting involved,

they are the ones that unplugged and re-plugged and installed the new ECU, wired up and sorted everything out. Or not as the case might be.

It needs Plugged into the Diagnostics then someone with the Correct Skills checking the New Installed Engine and Gearbox function out.

Gear Selection & Park, Gear Inhibitor, Hill Hold Function etc.

Everything well connected and as it should be with the wiring.

Tickover setting, 'Stall speed',  and sensors etc.

 

What fuel do you always use, and from where.?

 

all the best

 

george

ever since the first 1k or so ive always used bp ultimate as its the only thing for 30 miles i can get so i stick to it ( the 1 time i put nitro into it is the only times its miss fired )

ive done 5k on this 2nd engine though so youd 'think' if they missed something it would have shown earlier but i do agree it needs connecting upto something, semtex would be my choice but failing that a diagnostic machine will do

Best of luck getting it sorted.

When you are next with them,

Please ask them for the full invoice of your Engine Transplant.

What Skoda had to pay.

Full parts list,  this is not a secret, its your car, you can keep that in the record for a future owner.

*If the Dealership will not supply the information just Tell Skoda UK you want it and require them to supply the details in writing.*

 

You want to see that New Spark Plugs were put in & what other new parts the car was fitted with, was it a new Air Filter etc..

(Off course they were, they will say, well that will be on the Bill.)

 

Did the new Engine get written up in the Service book,

in that being the Engine due a service in 9400 miles from the new installation?

 

george

theres the thing George, no written anything was given to me even though i did ask Skoda UK

service book wasnt marked up and i still had my 2nd year service on its 2nd anniversary rather than 12 months from the engine replacement but i did see an engine that was in a crate which im told was mine

ive been suspicious ever since but like i said before, i am a little paranoid

I'd be very suspicious

For future piece of mind i think everyone that gets a replacement engine should demand the full documentation.

 

It is necessary possibly for resale value.

Future Owners need to know the Documented Service History without going to Skoda UK.

 

A Buyer last night from a non Franchise Skoda Dealer could have been landed with anything.

A new Engine, one not to have had a Re-Map mght be a safer used than one that has had a Breather mod and nothing else done, IMO

 

Just ask or better demand the proof of the Engine & Components fitted.

The Engine had a Identification Number after they built it, and even if it now has the cars VIN & the Old Engine Numbers,

the Bar Code must match what is now in the Car, & new Stickers should be in the Service Book.

Matching Engine Date from Production.

Car Manufacture date and Engine Manufacture Date are different now, someone might want the details in a few years time..

 

george

 

PS,

 BP Ultimate is still 97 RON is it not.

It will almost certainly run better and cold start better with the recommended 98 RON,

I would put in 99 RON  Shell V Power Nitro, or better still IMO, Tesco Momentum at a minimum 99 RON.

its bp only for me George, its a 60 mile round trip for shell and our Tesco doesnt do fuel

yeah we only have BP (and an esso) round here George, so no 99 available, but it has to be "minimum" 97 , I bet alot of it is 98 anyway, otherwise they would be getting 96 on test sometimes.... mines mostly run on the BP stuff, and its fine...

 

madmonk: I'd get it to skoda for some diagnostic checks, sounds like the gearbox and engine may not be communicating properly, I haven't experianced any of those problems....

 

it would make me nervous too! get it checked out and update us let 'em know you are on brisky , it might help

im popping in tomz morning just to see whats what

Depots start the deliveries of the Winter Period Spec Monentum on the 15th of October.

 

Shell, BP, Esso stations could get their deliveries from anytime, i used to know.

 

Many stations that do not have big sales and regular tank fill ups can end up on the Summer Spec in the Tanks and more Moisuture/H20 

Old stations & Tanks can be a problem in some rural areas and cars need Fuel Filters Draining or changing as frosts & low temperatures,

set in.

 

Diesel Drivers might be aware of waxing & Fuel Filters needing drained,

but i have experience of petrol vehicles over the years suffering Moisture in the fuel tank  from getting a fill up with moisture in it,

They know about Winter Diesel.

 

Not saying thats what it is here, but often people get in a panic and it can be a simple answer.

Petrol & Diesel Filling stations can be the cause of poor starting in some cases.

(another common thing is someone driving in heavy rain, and the Air filter getting a bit damper than usual,

then Freezing Nights and the filter is never getting dry. Again this is not a Twincharger likely problem.)

 

george.

booked in for wed morning :wonder:

there still very cagey about the details on my engine, looks like ill have to phone cust ser to get the nitty gritty

This kind of thing is the problem with Service Campaigns which have started with Skoda,

& not 'Recalls'.

with the likes of the DSG.

 

There are cars that can have problems all of a sudden,

Then cars that Skoda Workshops have already replaced Engines & Gearboxes in.

 

Not in this case,

but there are Used Cars out there, Out of the Original Warranty, 

Maybe on 2nd, 3rd Owner,

& the Owner/Driver does not know the Cars History, even when bought as a Skoda Approved Used Car.

 

Buy one at a Dealer or Independent, or privately and you are very unlikely to know its History,

& unless Skoda do 'REcalls' on the DSG to change oil & update the ECU,

they might never know unless there is Media Publicity on the Issues.

'Service Campaigns', 'Field Action' etc. 

'Not Fit For Purpose' to those not Going to Skoda Dealerships for Servicing.